Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

FYI, Mighty Putty and Kneadatite (greenstuff) will roll that thin and are finely grained.

Just for future reference.

-Rog

I don't know of any way to do it perfectly without some serious computer-controlled equipment. My best suggestion would be to take the design and cut it out yourself (the raised detail), flipping the pattern to make the other side. You could even just make one and then cast it, and assuming you made...

chautau wrote:I think I have taken pictures accurate enough to see my finger prints

'Tis true!

-Rog

EDIT:

chautau wrote:ask rogvillier.

Cool French spelling for the win!

How would ultramarine look over the gold area panel lines? Just thinking it may look more like natural light and recessed...or it may all go horribly wrong. It's kind of interesting to see how adjacent colors affect the main color. I was just playing around with it and here's gold with burnt umber:...

Wow, that's a pretty substantial model then. I'm interesting in seeing how it turns out.

-Rog

I would definitely go with a more red brown like burnt umber, red always makes gold look richer, whereas a more greenish brown would make it icky.

That's a cool model. Is is prepainted or bare?

-Rog

Agreed: Future.

-Rog

My wife is working on a doll and she wants to strip the paint from the doll face. I have seen posts about using easy off oven cleaner. Is that an option? What would be the best solvent to use? Uh huh, your wife... :wink: Seriously though, one thing that I've found with vinyl is that it can stain re...

There's also Micro Glaze for making windows, although it's a dreaded unitasker...

I also just noticed this thread, but again it's just about windows, not making clear casts.

-Rog

I know it's a little thin, as it's meant to settle out, but any craft store will carry clear casting resin for making paperweights or really thick table tops with stuff imbedded in them. I've always wanted to try it for models but I've just never had the occasion. I know you can get it at Michael's ...

In my experience a heat gun doesn't provide even enough heat, so when you're heating up one section the last section you heated is starting to cool... But if it's only like a 6" square it would work. Larger and I'd use an oven. As long as you control the heat there's nothing to worry about. -Rog

Butters wrote:Surely, after reading my intention of marketing it, you can appreciate my desire for secrecy?

Of course, it's just sort of a catch 22. Maybe someone will come up with a better answer, but until then, "what looks good" is probably the best it's going to get.

-Rog

It might help if we knew what it was - maybe one of us has definitive info. I didn't want to press the issue, but yeah, it's hard to give a good opinion without knowing. You're the one who asked, after all. :D I would at least say that as long as you make sure you have the right number of rivets yo...

Is it...a secret? :) Unless it's something from Star Trek, most people probably aren't going to notice if it's a little off, so I'd go with what looks right myself. I'm finding that with my 1:144 Red October, lots of things I'll scale correctly with math but it just doesn't look right for whatever r...

Is it a real design, like a plane, or is it something made-up, like a space ship? That can be a big factor, I've found...

-Rog

I guess this particular section doesn't get a ton of traffic. In the General Sci-fi section it seems like things fall of the edge of the earth after a week, which is kind of a shame...

-Rog

Four years later...

-Rog

If the paint is smooth then there's no reason to. I wouldn't chance it anyway, you might sand through it.

If the paint isn't smooth then what the heck is wrong with your paint?

I find it best to even everything out with your Futures and Dullcotes.

-Rog

Dumb question time. What exactly is involved in wet sanding primer on a model? It's pretty simple, you just need to get some really fine sandpaper, like up around the 1000 grit range or even finer, like 1500 grit. Then just get a little container of water and put a couple of drops of either baby sh...

Sorry, I didn't mean the same brand. :) If you can get it, primer made for models is going to be better and more "in scale". Otherwise try to find some of the cheap $1 spray primer. It's cheap because it's not very thick, but that's what you want. You also might not even need a primer, unl...

In my experience that's what the filler primer does, as it's supposed to go on thick and literally fill any scratches or small dings for later sanding. So I would just use a regular primer, it's going to be a lot thinner and thus smoother. Unless you're going to sand it anyway of course.

-Rog

Mark Yungblut wrote:If your oils are thin enough to get under tape then you are not using them correctly.

Different "strokes" for different folks.

-Rog

Masking with oil paint itself or masking to paint with them? If the former, I have not heard of this. If the latter, I used to do a lot of oil painting and I can tell you that most masking tape is pretty bad with oil paint (like artist oils), especially if you've thinned it at all because it tends t...

I would try either Krylon Fusion or the same paints you'd use on vinyl kits, i.e. acrylic enamel.

-Rog

Putting a coat of Future on before doing a wash is always a good idea. Pretty much the only thing that really takes it off is ammonia, so it holds up to other solvents pretty well usually.

-Rog

The white bricks were hard plastic but the doors and windows were definitely made of different, softer stuff - kind of rubbery actually. Aside from those few windows, everything else is the way I remember it. Are you sure you don't have the materials backwards, i.e. the soft stuff in the US and the...

Hmm, I was under the impression that the soft plastic doors and windows were strictly for the Canadian market (while hard plastic ones were sold in the U.S.), and if so, I believe they were originally yellow, while the U.S. ones were white... I could be wrong though, and there's not a lot on info on...

Thanks, you just made my brain itch.

-Rog

I don't know if you'd call it a tool, but when I'm using RTV silicone to make a mold I'll inevitably have some left over. I pour this into a lid from cottage cheese or something similar, to make a disc. Since nothing sticks to silicone, it makes a great surface for mixing epoxy or paint as they will...

I just read that linked page...

What kind of psycho licks their brushes?? Even if it was all water-based paint, that's akin to eating Play-Doh. And for other paints, why not just drink gasoline?

Good info though. Never hurts to be careful.

-Rog