Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Kylwell wrote:

I swear by Krylon UV-Resistant Matte finish #1309.

Meaning??? That it will help the silvering issue that samusaran is having?

I've been told not to use anything other than 5 minute apoxie. I'm told that you can have the FO craze and shatter at the point where you glue it if you use CA or anything like it. Well, for me.... it seems to work.... without the worries of if the FO will break on me. Once it breaks inside the kit....

What is the AB you used? Make; single or double action.

Like Robiwon did in their set up... use plastic tube with a diameter to hold the number of FO that you are using and then seal it in one of two ways: either with 5 minute epoxie (not SUPER GLUE OR CA) or use a low temp glue gun. I have used both methods with not ill effects.

Ok, I have this kit and there was a thread (somewhere) that spoke on how to paint it. But... to me, I would give the built kit a base coat and then using a sea sponge ( which you can pick up everywhere, artstore, dollar store, etc) drip it into the color that you want to do that mottled pattern in a...

Ok, lets take a step back... what applications would one want to use 1/4 over 1/2?

Series or Parallel... pick your set up for.... let's say 3 leds at 20 mA.

Scott, my basic question was what is the difference between the two ... which I think you answered. If I understand correctly, what ever the number of leds, etc. what matters is the Heat the resistor will generate. If I don't care, then using the 1/4 is fine. But it will generate more heat from the ...

Ok, picked up some resistors and in my haste, picked two different sets of 100 Ohm resisitors. One is listed at 1/2 watt at 5% tolerance and the other is 1/4 watt at 5% tolerance.

So my question is how are they different and how would you figure them into being used with leds?

I've had very little problems with using Winsor & Newtons acrylics for washes. Easy to apply and to fix any mistakes.

Romulan Spy, that is what I am aiming at doing! Cool, so now I have a better idea of what I am doing. So, when you over spray are you spraying above 20psi and are you spraying close or far from the subject? So, am I to understand that you use a transparent version of the final coat to cover your pan...

I am referring to distinct panels of slightly different shades. Like what you see on some starships.... meaning a gull grey base, but panels of silver, dark grey, etc. that are noticeable but not over powering.

Never done it before, so is this the correct way?

base paint the model

Seal

Mask off areas that you want to panelize

Seal

Then dust the base color over everything to help blend it all in

Does this sound correct?

Figure that this would be in the finishing section.

My question is... what wattage are you using to light your model so that you can photo it?

Looks like that is what I will have to learn to do then.

Use to spraying one coat and then the final.... but I guess not with these paints!

I believe, in the Decal section of this thread, someone stated that if you poke a hole in the decal (where you have the air bubble) and then apply some future... that should settle everything back down flat.

Was using this with mixed results. First I thought it was the bottle I was using, meaning old. I was using it thru the airbrush, thinning it with distilled water (like it says on the bottle) and shooting it at around 20 psi. Problem was that it was clogging the AB more than usual. Ok, So I went out ...

I have had the same issue in regards to heat shrinking around fiber optics to hold them together. The FO just curled and I was a good 6 inches above the flame.

Tired the flame and a heat gun but would be interested in knowing what would work with heat shrinking around FO.

I know of the kit, but to answer astromech1138 question, that depends. Any size can work. Mix and match. Remember, what you are doing is representing windows and they do come in all sizes. Some places on the ship may have larger windows than on other sections. Just don't go too small or you will loo...

I have used both 5 min epoxie and a low temp hot glue gun.... for years.... no problems.

I agree with what eeun says.

To me, when in doubt, let a couple of days go by before using a different medium.

Thanks all. I am using it on a resin kit where I joined two parts (they make up an arm). It is pretty smooth, but once I prime it, I know that there will be some places that will need to be shaped better to go with the flow of the arm. So I was wondering how tough aves is to sand seeing that when I ...

When sanding aves.... what grit is good to start with?

On another site, came across this vid....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuDk28a2 ... 8&index=11

At 6:54, it looks like he is mixing glue and what.... I don't know to fill the seams in. Was wondering if he was mixing glue and microballoons?

A little dawn wouldn't hurt.

Ok, sounds good.

Thanks

I am looking for some sort of compass that I can use to cut circles of various diameters from flat plastic stock. I have looked at what x acto has, but they are not for cutting plastic stock but more for paper. A compass sort of cutter would work well for cutting circles from 1.5" in diameter t...

Instead of water, I had read somewhere that Future works well also for applying the salt to.

Sometimes with water, the salt may disolve a bit and then you may end up with residue that you don't want on the kit.

Pinning I find is the key. Sometime I will wrap fine wire around the pin (be it copper from left over electrical wiring, or what ever) to give it that extra gripping strength. Remember to remove as much of the old CA as you can before you re-glue. On a related note... I picked up at WF this year a g...

Is there going to be a quiz on this?