Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Off hand I would say no. If there are separate driver circuits you might be ok, accpet the driver for the missing CFL will be running 'hot' as CFLs require a high voltage startup jolt to get the waveicals going. If the circuit is one driver and the CFLS are hooked in serial I'll bet it wont fire th...

Anyone know if you can safely power one CCFL using a driver board that was ment to drive 2 CCFLs, with no negative effects on the one CCFL or its life span?

Padawan v 2.5 wrote:

Thomas E. Johnson wrote:I've been using an Aztec for 10 years and have never had a problem. Best airbrush I ever used bar none.

What kind of paint do you run through it?

P@T

Acrylics and lacquers.

I've been using an Aztec for 10 years and have never had a problem. Best airbrush I ever used bar none.

Thanks Spaceduck. That was very helpful.

Has anyone here ever used these types of colors? I assume that by layering them over each other, over a specific solid base color, will yield a more "organic" looking surface, and some interesting color variations. I have a bunch of them that I got from WASCO, and they do seem to have a va...

Mike, Thin with Future. Only use Apple Barrel as the other stuff's pigment is too large. Like most acrylics, strain through pantyhose if you want. I use Delta Cerema-Coat paints, Americana, American Traditions, Liqitex, all thinned with future and have never had a problem. In my experiments with DC...

Lt. Z0mBe wrote:Mike,

Thin with Future. Only use Apple Barrel as the other stuff's pigment is too large. Like most acrylics, strain through pantyhose if you want.

I use Delta Cerema-Coat paints, Americana, American Traditions, Liqitex, all thinned with future and have never had a problem.

I find an 80% future 20% paint mix using those brands gives awesome results.

It is a clear flat that's labeled as UV resistant.

Well, I was able to airbrush it thinned 50%/50% using my super high flow nozzle, and got pretty good results. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it more bang for the buck to thin down a bottle of this stuff and airbrush it, than to buy the rattle can stuff? It seems like you get more material to use...

Has anyone tried this type of clear flat finish from Gunze Sangyo?

http://houseofhobbies.com/gusamrsucluv.html[url][/url]

I only airbrush acrylics with a little retarder mixed into them, and every now and then Mr. Surfacer 1000 thinned heavily. I too have always had trouble airbrushing enamels, for the same reasons that the author of this thread has.

Can CCFL's have their lifespan increased if you slighty under volt the driver boards?

TER-OR wrote:For acrylic, I like PolyScale's Matte finish. If airbrushed thin, it's very nice.

I've had trouble with that stuff turning milky white when I wash dust off of a model with cold water.

Kylwell wrote:Somthing absolutely dead flat.... Krylon's matte UV is the flattest I've ever ran across.

Is there a product # for this stuff?

Ok folks! What is the flatest dullest, most sheenless clear flat finish that one can buy?

Ok, I'm ready to do the light blocking coat on REL's 1/650 Enterprise-E. I'm told that silver is a better color for this, than black. Is this true?

I've never had a problem with my A470 airbrush. Its always given me perfect results.

So the 1000 stuff can be airbrushed if thined 50%/50% with Mr. Surfacer thinner?

bert aka model maker wrote:how much sanding does it require ? I have the tamiya fine surface primer in white.

None. It goes on smooth.

Tamyia Primers are one of the best. Only Mr. Surfacer is better, because its solvent is a little stronger and it "bites" on the surface a bit more.

Then it should work then?

Does this stuff throw out a halo of light that will light up an enclosed area, or is its light glow confined to the wire itself and not do much illumination?

Can the life span of CCFLs be increased by slightly under volting the driver boards?

Thats where I normaly buy my LEDs from.

I want to use them for the flood/spot lights on the 1/350 PL Refit.

Those only have a viewing angle of 20 degrees. I need ones that have 100 degrees or more.

Tamyia does make a clear pearl coat, as well as a pearl white, in the rattle cans.

jwrjr wrote:I got some 5 mm leds from Ebay that claim to be rated at 40,000 mcd. A maximum rating, obviously.

Can you send me the link please? Thanks.