Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yeah, I can send you a photo. I'm not sure if I will be able to upload the picture in here or not? Maybe if I send it to your e-mail if you want to PM that to me? I think the Koolshade is laid flat anyway when it was used to fit on the studio models, so no angle unless you need the angle? It is alum...

So, this might sound weird.It's certainly an odd subject so I'll get right to it. So, what I'm going to attempt to do is re-scale and hopefully scratch build something used on multiple S.S miniatures. Koolshade. Yes the window screen louver material used to cover the S.S Tie Fighter, but it was used...

I know this is a long shot, a shot in the dark really and I'm not sure if anyone out there has some scrap left over? I'm hoping to find a small couple inch square piece of the original "Cool Shade" used (as most of you know) used on many Star Wars ships, from the Falcon vent grills, famous...

I can't get "real MEK" in California let alone Acetone, White/Mineral sprits, Lacquer thinner and other solvents that would be useful They have EPA approved replacements and I am doubting their use or effectiveness. I'd have to drive to Nevada to get it or Oregon.

I've always wanted to get some of the really small "square" dental files used for finishing/prepping root canals. I can't recall what it was called? A Hedstrum (I'm spelling that wrong I'm sure) or K-Flex file? Its a super small square file. I'm talking tiny. It can file square holes like ...

You can make a scribing tool out of allot of things. One would be a very small flat(or phillips) screw driver used for "glasses". You can grind it on a pedistal grinder (if you have one) or you could use K&S brass flat stock. You can file it to make it a little narrower. So you can scr...

No...you can't machine styrene. You would have better luck with ABS, but acrylic would be better(cast acrylic, not extruded). The cast acrylic is better.

I think if you want real ping pong balls, you have to go to a sports store. Cheaper means, cheap plastic and not knowing what plastic or plastics it was made from.

I think if you want real ping pong balls, you have to go to a sports store. Cheaper means, cheap plastic and not knowing what plastic or plastics it was made from.

Not to my knowledge. Your "standard" ping pong ball is made of styrene, but you can use MEK to melt both styrene and ABS plastics.

Plastistruct is under new ownership(over a year now to my knowledge) and "ALLOT" of items they had are unavailable.

I'll look into it more. A goof acrylic primer may be best to use on "non porous surfaces" such as resin cast and 3d printed resin. I know gesso is primarily used on canvas for surface prep and the Vallejo water based urethane may have better adhesion than any other acrylic primer on the ma...

No, I've no plans of painting any vinyl kits with artist oils or enamels. I was told by someone anyway that is doesn't matter if you have acrylics down as a base over your vinyl kit. It won't protect or keep the oil(or enamel paint) from reacting weird and basically effing up your project. I'm refer...

Thanks for the link. I think I had seen or read that small article. Somewhat useful. I was just wondering if anyone had ever finished a figure kit entirely in artist oils and I mean in scales larger than 1/24, 1/32, 1/48 or 1/72. I've seen plenty of examples and read articles of some who paint small...

I was just wondering if anyone out there has ever had any experience with thinning out and airbrushing "artist oil paints"? The really expensive kinds that come in small sized tubes that need a great deal of thinning out with mineral spirits and the possible additional "curing additiv...

I'd say its a military green/drab, or olive drab/brown drab color and who knows if they didn't use more than one color(change it in between painting it) or due to weathering changes the color entirely, plus there's all the blue screen film, lighting, whatever else they used for cinemaphotography.

A tac cloth is good for smooth surfaces, but if your kit has allot of raised and recessed surface detail...not so good.That's why(if you can) washing the kit is better and does two things.Removed any dust/dirt and also removes the mold releases.

Decals shouldn't come off if the kit is painted and the decals have been "sealed" with a clear coat.

Is the kit built or has it already been assembled? Does it have wiring inside it? If the kit is unbuilt, wash the kit in a tub of tepid warm water()NOT *HOT) and dish soap. Scrub the part/parts with an old tooth brush then just let it air dry. You can even use a little AJAX or COMIT cleanser and scr...

The stuff I'm either going to try will be a TAP Plastics brand or there is the vinyl adhesive on the Grainger web site to the link I posted above(clear adhesive).I should also think that TAP be able to tell me if at least their brand would work or not on PVC vinyl.However, I'm certain they may say &...

I might try the vinyl glue on some trimmed off scrap to see what it does. Like, if it melts the begeeses out of it, sticks it together or does nothing? I think it should work. Vinyl kits are made of PVC vinyl, so...if the glue is made for PVC vinyl, it should work without attacking it and it should ...

I'm a big 5 min epoxy user. I just never tried it on a vinyl kit. Anyone ever try "vinyl glue"? Like, the stuff you can buy at TAP Plastics. If its vinyl glue, it should work on the vinyl kits too....shouldn't it? Like this one: https://www.grainger.com/product/45RF99?ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIvLS...

That could be "vinyl" or a type of vinyl?ABS can be squishy if it is "hollow", but still have a glossy look/feel regardless. Shouldn't matter if it is ABS,vinyl or STYRENE. Super glue would work on any three of those plastics. Maybe contact the Lindenberg company and ask them wha...

Its not just the cement. I think you need to "wash the kit parts". That "waxy feel" to the plastic is probably mold release. Strong mold releases are used in injection molds. Get a dish washing tub, fill it with warm warm water and dish washing detergent(not scalding hot, you'll ...

I was curious if anyone ever tried something different to assemble vinyl kits instead of super glues?Has anyone ever tried 5 min. epoxy, or possibly "vinyl or pvc glue/solvents" for potentially "stronger bonds"?I wouldn't try it right away,I'd test it on the scrap trimmed away,bu...

I don't know if anyone answered this, but in answer to the question can you cast an RTV mold without a vacuum chamber, "YES you can". Its a little bit longer of a process. The best way to go about it is to brush on a thin layer onto the part(s) being molded in silicone. The next thing is t...

I might give that a try. So, ifPVC cement is 30% MEK, is it just a slower cure, or it doesn't melt the plastic as much? I still may be able to get it (and a number of other solvents I am in need of) from someone, but it depends on what it costs and how big a risk there might be.

I almost bought Testor's paint that was that old.It was a box of them from the late 60's or early 1970's.It was at least 50 years old(possibly older).It was "Pearl White".Some guy had a case of it he was trying to auction on EVIL :evil: BAY, for over $200.00.Problem was, you couldn't use i...

Well, just about every solvent out there is toxic. You aren't supposed to drink it, wash your hands with it, or stick your nose into the can and breath it in. I'd have to find out how that solvent might be categorized for ground shipping aside from flammable, I don't know what else to have it labele...

I'm not a big super glue fan. The only hobby shop near me doesn't hardly carry anything. They just aren't stocking the store like they did 2 years ago. I can barely order a kit through them any more. The last time the kits never arrived, but they were Bandai kits and I think Bandai is/was limiting w...