Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Start with framed cross sections... Fill between with foam, or sheet over the frames Sand, Fill and finish the shape. Where did that old ship tutorial go... here... Sort of like this except 360 round. http://modelerhobbyforum.multiply.com/photos/album/5/Typical_Ship_Hull_Construction Or more like th...

Perhaps it is vinyl and not "resin"?
If this is the case, you need to be wary of paint formula also.

I typically get parts like that when I forget to shake the "B" part of the
two part resin before portioning.

Most likely they will never be completely "firm".

Umi

To make it more functional than this, I would engineer a connection to a servo.



http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachme ... id=1608625

Spring loaded and working and locking hatch.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachme ... id=2025446

I build most of what I need using the telescopic K&S brass rod and tubing.

I've built a ships crane, and a retractable ships mast using the K&S product
to simulate hydraulics.

Personally,... I use the tinted clear styrene by Raboesch. It used to be distibuted under Midwest Products in their "super styrene center". Brown was my preferance. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=277878 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=...

My thoughts are, "Why would I pay $12 for plug and wires, when I can get
a Plug for $1.50? Size be dang...

Everyone seems to ignore those whenever I post them,... but...

Deans Micro Plugs... two three and four pin connectors.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... &search=Go

A brass tube that has been sharpened at one end will cut the sprue lines.
Be sure to use a tube that is slightly larger than the sprue diameter you want.
Experiment a little in some cured scrap RTV. The tube will cut a slight flare at the starting of the cut.

I used to use it.
It is is often brittle like glass...

You know like "those kits"...

You don't want to use it in large pieces, it can generate
a lot of heat while curing. Small pieces are okay, but still,
it can be brittle.

Perhaps some EL wire laid out to meet your
circular requirement.

http://www.neonstring.com

I just used some for a sequenced christmas display.

modelnutz wrote:Ever consider heat shrink tubing ?

I like the shrink wrap tubing for fine wire solder joints...

Slip it over the tube heat and whatch it shrink to a tight fit.
It could even be trimmed after it is in place.

Mask off all the low points, then spray paint with build up primer.

Remove the masking and you should have your varigation.

Gosh, do they even make that stuff any more?

Perhaps pinstirpe tape from an automotive paint shop supply house.

I leave my molds to set for seven days, minimum before casting clear resin.

I am a proponent of the inner frame construct. Frame http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=522528 Styrene http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=269888 Frames http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1397533 Styrene http://www.rcgroups.com/f...

A layer of general epoxy, or West Systems epoxy and fiberglass.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachme ... tid=937715

5-45 minute epoxy is a bit fast...

Basically, there is a small circuit board in the fixture to create the flickering

There are a lot of styles made for the Model Railroaders...

http://www.ngineering.com/lighting_effects_products.htm

... I mean, if people are going to be climbing in and out of it all the time then that's a whole different discussion... -Rog Well yeah, everyone will want to put time into the Star Wars game console that is set up in the dash, and view screen... :D Wait, that would be an x'wing wouldn't it....

A couple more images..

http://www.originalprop.com/blog/wp-con ... h-Star.jpg

http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/JOM/05 ... .large.gif

I have decided that I "sculpt" my models, and build in a balanced
fashion. I turn the model and maintain an even level of composition
all around. Then look for "dead" spots, and start filling in...

Good prices,.... Just so you know, these are all available from a couple companies, and in a variety of styles. Ngineering is one of them... http://www.ngineering.com/lighting%20effects%20for%20structures.htm You'd be looking at the Flasher circuit Campfire circuit Arc welding circuit :wink: The oth...

Make sure the test leads are plugged into the correct sockets. Make sure the meter has a good battery. The 12v positve and 24 volt positve terminals are NOT the same. Set the meter to DCv 200 (something higher than 24v). Put the black lead to the negative ground terminal, then put the red lead of yo...

I have it right in my mind...

...-|I|I|I|I+ -|I|I|I|I+
GND........12v.........24v


But pictures might be good.

The first battery in the series, the one that the negative lead comes off.

Some nice test cuts Ian,... good intel from those tests. Laser cutting styrene isn't much better.. Laser cutting acrylic is awsome but the thinnest acrylic will be 1/16" cast sheet. Good for major parts, but not for those thin dashboard details... The styrene looks more perforated than cut. It ...

Maybe here.... http://www.specialshapes.com/perf017.html I know that the local hobby shop carries som of the K&S special shapes. Not sure if thier phone number at K&S metals works... This comes off of a special shapes package... 773-586-8503 http://www.ksmetals.com/ Many places seem to be ou...

A swiveling model base sounds cool... It does have a locking thumb screw to hold it's postion. I lucked into a Sennheiser swivel joint for $10 on thE bay. The Panavise versions start at about $25. :D You could also disassemble something like this to get the swivel joint. http://www.strutmanelectroni...

I'm actually planning on using a wall-wart to power my starship. -Tchail Well the resistor will still be dumping voltage as heat... My impression is that the zener diode stabilizes the voltage. The wall wart will be a constant voltage, no need for stabilization. The resistor will be doing all the w...

You could do it, but you are going to lose running time by dumping the excess voltage as heat... and nine volt batteries don't have a whole lot of amperage to begin with. Espcially if you are trying to run an Inverter for EL lighting... However maybe you could try one of the switching regulators by ...