Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Go down to the art store and find a cheap brand of chalk pastel like SMi or some such. No oils. Oils bad. I've got both a color set and a gray set. They run about $10 for a set that'll last years.

Babaganoosh wrote:I'm currently not worried about shrinkage ...

And you rarely model in the pool?

Is it better than their "plastic" primer?

I think it was the "signed angry" that got peoples dander up. Got mine going. Further research; the lacquer in question is indeed a hot paint, but with the undercoat it should come off using Simple Green or Brake-Klean. Bleach will harden the styrene and make it very, very brittle. Like cr...

Dude, if nobody here knew what you were talking about (such as I) you're not going to get much response. And, I had no idea what to do with acrylic laquer. So, I didn't have anything to add. Now that you're unjustly upset I've done some research. You've got two choices, depending on the type of acyl...

Some are gloss, some are semi-gloss or satin, many are flat.

A few are combinations of the above.

Some are gloss becasue I haven't gotten around to matte coating them after applying a wash & decals.

Yes it matters.

True modelers only use Tamiya Fine Grey Primer.

Really.

As Badwrench says, it depends on what you're doing with it later. Bright gets white, Black for heavy stuff, Gray for everything else. Red is for your car.

I thin them about 50/50 with Tamiya thinner. I've tried cheapo brands and had nothing but heartache. The Testors will work in a pinch (get the huge bottle). As for as PSI, I think I'm running about 30psi, medium tip in an Iwata Eclipse. Clean the brush by spraying cleaner though it for 30 to 60 seco...

Check yur shorts.

Railroading supplies, if that doesn't work hit the craft stores and look for craft sand.

Worse comes to worse, find ultra fine salt at the grocery store.

I have founf you always find just what you need after you've bought it online.

With .010 stock you could easily use a sharpened brass or steel tube of the correct diameter. In your case you'd want to bevel the outside of the tube and I've found it handy to put a T handle on it to help. The brass will need to be regularly resharpened.

36 point Helvetica white? Might need to go to the 42 poitn size but they should be half inch.

If it tastes buttery it's no good.



heh, no don't taste it. Probably won't be an issue.

And remember, measure twice, then cut more than you need.

If you've got the spare plastic, bulk fill with it and touch up with Aves (or simular). If you've got putty to spare, jest filler'up.

Aves, it's what's for dinner.

Find the nearest hobby store that caters to the model train crowd. They've got all sorts of basic kits.

There is no easy way. The better manufacturers, I've noticed, do thier best to hid the seam or make the part in such a way as it needs no filler.

Sandpaper, a good set of micro files, patients, and a lot of time.

Well, actually O is kinda 1:48 scale depending on the train.

Train Scales

O Scale

As a side note, I've also taken soft solder and rolled it across a large file to make textured tubing.

Like these? Or these?

Maybe SSM could carry them.

It rubs off a bit. If need be you can get heavy handed with it and then seal it with some clear coat. The lighter bits will disapear a bit and it'll tone down the rest.

Been thinking about picking up thier gold & copper powder for alternative weathering.

Oh and I forgot to add, wear a mask when working with the aluminum powder.

big-dog wrote:...You know I've never spilled Tenax or Ambroid...

Then you obviously aren't building fast enough

I have recently come across a fast and easy way to paint real looking guns. I use a product called Gold Leaf and Metalic Powder Fine Aluminum #19 . Paint the metal parts flat black. Then dab just a wee bit of powder onto a fine semi-stiff brush (I use a WN Flat Series 236 #1) and gently work the fla...

But isn't it so much fun when you've got a buncha sprues laying around and you know over your bottle. I've though about drilling a bottle sized hole in my workbench to stop that but I more stuff around to much for a perminate fixture. The base I use is about 3in square and about an inch thick. Heck,...

Ambroid is what I spill on my table. I rarely get any of it on actual plastic (unless it's laying on the table). I seem to always find a way to knock the brand new bottle over each and every time I buy one. Why would it be so difficult for them to put it in short, fat, square bottles instead of tal...

It'll cure in a day or so.

What type of glue you using?

Short answer, more than likely yes. Some glues need some air(open space, non-glue enviroment?) to help cure, trimming the bubbles off lets them gas out faster.

It sounds like you've got some oil residue left on the plastic. Happens occasionally. Primer will help, wiping the model down with alcohol helps, not eating fried food when building really helps.

Anyone care to mention anything about the smell? I've never used it, but the Bondo stuff can give me a splitting headache from the smell. Tamiya is NO better. Given that animals are generally more sensitive and have better noses than us human types I'm betting the cats don't appreciate the fumes ei...