Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hey guys the Round 2 Excelsior is about to come out and they missed a few panel lines on the edge of the saucer that I want to put on, can I use any compass with a scribing tool on it or is there one that I can buy just for models. Thanks Any good draftsman's dividers can be used to scribe circles....

dizzyfugu wrote:Nylon stockings can also do wonders...

Not for my legs! :-)

I just purchased both of the Cosmo Fleet Sets from Yamato-2199. The kits are 1/1000 scale, and contain plenty of small parts. Other than using a fine-mesh strainer on the drain of the sink, are their any tips for washing very small parts? Is it best to do sub-assemblies before washing with dish soa...

Richard Baker wrote:(sigh)
I really need to get my mind out of the gutter when reading thread titles...

Me, too. I had an image of something completely different!

I found several on-line references to the color listing it as FS 35156, but to the best of my knowledge (and further research) there has never been such a color in FS595A/B/C. As I recall it, it was a light blue similar to the WW II Luftwaffe underside color.

What I suggest is to make a copy of the decal sheet (scan or photocopy) and cut out the window portions and use them as your templates. Save the decal sheet for future use.

Andy_USA wrote:Which type surface is best to use liquid masking materials on glossy , flat, or does not matter?

In my experience, a smooth surface (glossy or satin) works best.

Look for round rubber leg material at a fly tying supply shop. This is a strip of rubber material made of individual round sections that can be peeled away. Sold as a strip about 1" wide and 18" long. Fine size is about 1/2 mm in diameter. It's available in a variety of colors. See here: h...

A "pilot hole" helps. I use a needle or compass point chucked in a drill holder to mark the position of the hole before drilling.

So please, how do I: i) Fill in and re-drill the holes (techniques materials, tips & tricks etc.) ii) Drill the remaining holes more accurately (I stopped once it started going arwy) - currently I was using a pin to 'centre punch' the plastic. iii) Any other useful tips - I've tried googling it...

You CAN apply enamels over lacquers with no problem. The opposite is not advised, as lacquer usually has a hotter solvent that can dissolve anything under it. In fact, lacquers will dissolve underlying lacquers. I would also not advise applying enamels or lacquers over any water-based paint. By the ...

jpolacchi wrote:I don't know? 1/2 studio scale would put the ship at about 4ft in length, a quarter scale version would be roughly 2 ft.

Okay, I understand. You meant 1/2 the size of the studio scale model, not 1/2 the size of the prototype! That WOULD be massive!

"1/2 scale" means half the size of the original. If studio scale is too massive, then 1/2 scale would certainly be also.

Sounds like an automotive color to me. I'd try Modelmaster's "Italian Red," assuming it's still available. Testors has been discontinuing a lot of the Modelmaster colors.

Thin with water and a drop of liquid dishwashing detergent. The detergent reduces surface tension and makes the wash "wetter".

Get thee to thy nearest Dollar Tree and look for "Red Cup Party Lights." Each package contains 5 warm white 4-mm LEDs wired to a 2-AAA battery holder w/on-off switch. Each LED is inside a small red plastic cup which serves as a reflector, but the cups are easily removed. Only one US dollar...

You can also try using a dilute solution of white glue. This was the recommended primer for Airfix's polyethylene figures and tank treads back in the old days.

Avery (the label people) makes white 8 1/2" x 11" labels for laser printers in boxes of 25 and 100. The adhesive is pretty strong, however. You can also make your own masking templates by printing on plain paper and using a light dusting of spray adhesive on the reverse side to hold them o...

Silhouette (the scrapbooking people) make a dandy tool called the "Pickmeup," which I have found to be ideal for positioning small parts of all kinds: http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/shop/tools/TOOL-04-IND-3T And Micro-Mark's Pic-n-Stick has been around for years: http://www.micromark.com...

Make a "rubbing" of the existing panel lines. Place a sheet of tracing paper over the area you wish to duplicate and rub the area with a soft pencil held sidewise or a piece of pastel chalk. Refine the line with a French curve if necessary, then stick the paper to a sheet of 0.020 in. styr...

Use a miter box and a modeller's razor saw.

Not in any particular order, here are my favorite putties/fillers: Mr. Surfacer comes in three "flavors": 500, 1000, and 1200, in order from coarse to fine. They are intended more as primers/surfacers for filling small imperfections prior to painting, not as a general gap filler. See here ...

Have you tried glossy photo paper? It's almost 0.005 in. thick, certainly thick enough for prototyping.

Evergreen makes black sheet styrene. Might be easier to make it out of that, then give it a good polish.

Trace around outside of each part onto paper. Scan the traced outlines. Import scans into Adobe Illustrator as templates, then trace around each outline again to create vector art of each template. Save as Illustrator (.ai) files. Illustrator has an autotrace function (called "Auto Trace,"...

Try Plastruct for clear half domes.

There's also these tools, if you desire to make them in advance:

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_ ... ts_id=2979

http://www.micromark.com/grab-iron-bend ... ,9768.html

Kylwell wrote:I fixed it.

Thanks. I don't know why the URL didn't paste completely.

Use Microscale's Micro Metal Foil Adhesive and ordinary kitchen aluminum foil. See here for a great how-to article:

http://www.finescale.com/~/media/import ... tning1.pdf