Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Two things I would suggest. First thing that might work is a nail buffing kit. Use the finest grit; on mine it's the "3" section. The second ting that you might try is toothpaste on a cotton swab. Wet the cotton swab first, then apply the toothpaste to the swab, and work it into the swab. ...

I use Krylon clear matte finish, in the spraybomb can. Sometimes, I'll spray it into a paint cup for airbrushing.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe

I know very little about casting, but could plaster be sealed with CA glue?

Z0mBe

i tried a clean soft towel but nothing removed the shiney marks and if the light tan circle looked entirely like that it would look terrible, so i just gave a light coat of the same color and it covered them up. the enamel cans says respray within 3 hours or wait 48, besides i spray in the garage a...

Thanks anyway, for the input.

z0mBe

Bondo in the tube is nearly the exact same stuff as Squadron and Testor's putty. The Bondo in the can, with the hardener, is a different formulation. Get the one-pound tube at Autozone or Wal-Mart. It's also a finer grain than the hobby stuff. I picked up some of this stuff last night from Wal-Mart...

MMMM, tips? Buy a cheap air compressor and line drier. And yep, cleaning is very important. Have a dedicated bottle for your necessary cleaner of choice. If you have several cleaners, use several different bottles and mark them clearly. Again, if you need to stop brushing for longer than a sneeze, ...

Bert, take a gander at ym reply to your other thread here: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24490 Also, got to Wal-Mart and get one of those $1.19 fingernail buffing sticks. Sand the canopy, wash it thoroughly, and follow the directions for the buffing stick. THEN dip it...

If you apply future before gluing, you will have a much lower chance to fog the parts. But CA should be very carefully used around clear bits. 2-part epoxy is much safer. It dries clear. white glue is best, as it can easily be removed. but , will future unfog a clear plastic piece that was dullcoat...

big-dog wrote:So is Testors glue for lear parts just PVA or white glue?

I use PVA/white on clear parts, or thickened Future. With the white glue, you can use a damp cotton swab, swabbed over the glue, to fill in gaps between clear parts and the fuselage.

Z0mBe

leo limuaco wrote:No. I don't use CA to glue canopies, because of that reason. I'm assuming that the ammonia is reacting to the Future. I'll try polishing the canopy to see if that works. Thanks.
Leo Limuaco

Redip it in Future and your fogging will go away.

Z0mBe

to apply it to the entire ship (metallic silver) just brush it on with a "sponge type "brush undilluted ? do i make just 1 light pass or several ?i want it to go on smooth with no runs. can future be put in a clean spray bottle and misted on, or will that cause spotting ? :D No. A spray b...

One thing: If you accidentally fog clear parts when using super glues, a quick wash of Future will take care of the fogging.

Z0mBe

If you must apply large amounts of Future with a brush, try using one of those foam paintbrushes. Paint as though you were mopping the floor - one pass, then move to the next "swath" to paint, and on and on. When you're finished, let it dry and repeat. This will prevent those annoying brus...

Bondo in the tube is nearly the exact same stuff as Squadron and Testor's putty. The Bondo in the can, with the hardener, is a different formulation. Get the one-pound tube at Autozone or Wal-Mart. It's also a finer grain than the hobby stuff. You can also try 3M ACryl Blue putty. It's a different f...

Here's what I do, assumiing I can duplicate the paint color again, lol. Put a drop or fillet of white glue over said seam. Then, using a moist, but not wet, cotton swab or makeup applicator, I smooth the bead. Repeat until everything al flush and feathered. Then, reshoot paint over area - you'll onl...

Are you going for transparent blue? If so, just add a few drops of blue food coloring to some Future and aitrbrush it. Keep the coats light - you'll need plenty of them - and let each coat dry before you attempt another. If the clear part has an "inside," like the inside of a canopy, airbr...

[shakes fist at Finishing Gods]

You've won this battle, but I shall win the war!


Thanks, Scott!

Z0mBE

I don't usually use "Primer" but the last time I used Testors spray primer it orange peeled and took about three days to finally dry. I live in Arizona where the humidity is not a problem so I don't know what caused the tackyness or the wrinkles. I shot it on regular AMT plastic which sho...

Wise and Sagely Modelers, I bought some liquid latex mold builder today, both to make some simple molds and to use as a liquid masking agent. I notice it's got ammonia in it. If I use it as a masking agent over something finished with Future, or an acrylic paint, will it damage said coating? I appre...

Here's what I do. Fix with verrrry light coats of Windex-thinned Future. Basically, mist and fly through, taking care to make the appropriate "whoosh!" sound effect. Laser sounds are optional. Then, after the Future's super cured, I repeat the whooshing process with Krylon Matte Finish. I ...

What about blue pastels?

Just a thought I had.

Z0mBe

That is a perfect explanation, thanks Zombe. What brand of pastel chalk do you use and is there an online source for it? I went to a couple art supply stores and all they carry are the oil-based pastels and I'm pretty sure these won't work for this technique. I have a full artist's set of "Alp...

When I first attempted this experiment, I made the washes like "dirty water" as you put it. The reason being is you want the wash to flow into fine areas. That's why you add just a drop or two of laundry detergent to the mixture. It drops the surface tension and makes the wash flow better....

Wise and Sagely Scale Modelers,

I had a thought. Could I use Future in a way similar to filler primer? I mean, could I use coats of Future to fill small imperfections, before color coats?

What do you all think? Have you all tried this?

I appreciate the advice.

Z0mBe

Also, try GENTLY scrubbing the area with wet toothpaste and a paper towel, or new, soft bristled toothbrush.

I hope this helps.

Z0mBe

Three words:

Radio Shack Antennas.

Z0mBe

I knew that color wheel would come in handy. I've got one, but being the genius I am, I forgot I had it.

Thanks, everyone.

Z0mBe

Wise and Sagely Scale Modelers, I am building a subject I want to be a kind of "rusty," sci-fi, red. I want to get something close the shade of red in the link below: http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN11649 I've been experimenting, and I seem to either get a pink, an orange, or stop sign red. ...

WOW!

Thanks, Joe! I didn't get to experiment with the paints like I'd hoped. Man, a sci-fi guy could do all his paintin' with them there cheap paints.

Thanks for the information.

Z0mBe