Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Pledge's parent brand, bought the future name, and formula, from my understanding. Although it's distributed under the pledge name, the formula hasn't changed. In the US, yes. Overseas, it ranges from "unchanged" in the U.K. to "whatever formula is used by the manufacturer licensing ...

Pledge's parent brand, bought the future name, and formula, from my understanding. Although it's distributed under the pledge name, the formula hasn't changed. In the US, yes. Overseas, it ranges from "unchanged" in the U.K. to "whatever formula is used by the manufacturer licensing ...

with the use of this product. Hypothetically if you were to use a SA product, which in time becomes brittle and becomes unstable; if you use this product to hold a model part in place, then follow it up with other longer lasting adhesive Testors, Tamiya or other product, would there be any benefit ...

hoth rebel wrote: ↑Wed Aug 23, 2017 5:03 pm Thanks.
I have seen a brand named Model Air. Anyone know if those a good to go right out of the bottle?

Those are Vallejo's ready-to-airbrush line. They are generally good to go. If not, add a bit of Vallejo's thinner or distilled water.

Kenny

I'd like to cover some models with aluminum foil. Is there a way to get a weathered, oxidized look (without destroying the adhesive)? Some kind acidic wash? I've never done this but have seen an article in FSM. You can boil the foil with eggshells or vinegar added to water. You'll get different col...

Which paint is easiest for a beginner? Do I need to thin the paints before spraying? 1.) Start out with the acrylic brands due to their ease of cleanup. They're all about equal. Some have proprietary thinners that must be used while others can use distilled water, Windex or isopropanol. 2.) Yes. Th...

I hate to be a bother but can you list links to the flow aid and the water color? Thanks. It's no bother. Happy to help a fellow Starship Modeler: Liquitex Flow Aid Surfactant: https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Flow-Effects-Medium/dp/B000KNPM46 Winsor & Newton Watercolors (again, not...

Thanks again. So if I use a spray can of gloss coat I can the use your #3 option listed above. What would be a good brand of water color to use and how much of each of the 3 ingriedents should I use? Thanks. No problem. Yes, you can use option 3.) (or 2.)). But...BUT I will caution you again that, ...

I am wanting to black wash Bandai Star Wars models. A water based acrylic wash wont work directly on that plastic without a gloss coat then? First question would be is "Why would you not want a glosscoat?" Secondly, I would humbly say to re-read my post earlier and you'll see why acrylic ...

So what is the recipe for a Tamiya Flat Black acrylic wash? I'm of the opinion you can't really have an acrylic paint wash. Acrylic paint is pigment suspended in polymer which is, in turn diluted in either lacquer-, ammonia- or alcohol-based solvents. The solvent evaporates and the little polymer s...

Hi all, I want to paint something black, however, I want it to have a blue tinge to it when it catches the light. I've trolled the internet and can't find anything useful. Are there any paints out there that are readily available? If not, is there a technique to use, such as maybe spraying a light ...

Here's how I would handle this: 1.) Sink a dowel in some Aves in the body. 2.) Trim the excess from around the neck and allow it to cure. The figure should look like a dowelhead at this point 3.) Ever-so-lightly sand the soon to be seams on the base of the head and the top of the body. This will be ...

I have a Neo and an HP-CH. the HPCH I have had for years but the Neo is less than two years old. The seals, including the needle bearing are not the PTFE (Teflon) that is used in the HPCH and other first-order Iwatas. They look like rubber. However, I have fired metallizing lacquers through the Neo,...

Lt.ZomBe, I am a fan of Aves and use it quite often. What type of safety solvent would you suggest I buy if I went that route? Thanks, Again, Tom I literally meant the safety solvent that you get from Aves. Failing that, perhaps alcohol (denatured or 90-percent ISO) or even good, old fashioned wate...

Saturn wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2017 8:31 am

onezero wrote: ↑Tue Jun 06, 2017 8:47 pm Working on that --- in the meantime, I have scrolled this site in my browser to 140% so I can read the text comfortably.

Thank gawd I'm not the only one. Damn you Presbyopia!

No need to bring religion into this, Saturn.

Kenny

There's a book by Sheperd Paine called "How To Build Dioramas." But that book and read it cover-to-cover. As others have said, planning, planning, planning. I bought the book years ago and have read through it many times, using it for making display bases mostly. However, my first true dio...

Use Aves. Make just the tiniest little rope of Aves and work it into the seam. Feather it out with a brush and safety solvent and you may not even have to sand it.

Kenny

Check out the "Advanced: Decals" thread in this very forum. Also, welcome aboard.

Kenny

Thanks for the Info GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! However. sadly :( I drilled the Screw and Medallion Details out already. By the way does anyone know where one could pick up S and W revolver medallions of the same size??? DarKev I don't think that's a casting defect you are trying to fix, rather that it'...

You could also try to use adhesive tape to rip the decals off of the surface. Sounds crude, but if the decals are wrinkled and did not bond well with the surface below, chances are good they might be "peeled" or scraped off with little other damage. Sand paper can work, but I guess that t...

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I especially appreciate the recommendations on the different ways of thinning it out. I ended up using some acrylic paint by Folkart and it came out of the bottle like tar. So thinning it was a bit more of an extensive process then what you get with Testors, etc......

Hey all. I'm in a position where all my local hobby stores have closed up around me, and my only options to buy paint locally are through the bigger box stores. Has anyone used the craft paint (normally in a squeeze bottle) on their model kits before? I'm curious if anyone knows how well it ages or...

I am painting a 1/25th scale Wonder Woman, and I need to paint her star-spangled fanny. Does anyone have any ideas for how I might paint stars that small? I would recommend some 1/72 WWII armor decals. The American stars that go on the fenders of tanks and hoods of jeeps should be about right. I ho...

Hello Folks Alright I have a bit of an issue. I purchased a BSG S-01 prop a while back and well after some false starts I'm sitting down to make the pistol. Of course the thing had some flaws and one of the most obvious is the grips; specifically there is almost no distance between the molded in de...

If I degas it and put in a good mold release, can I cast epoxy glue? I would think so. I "cast" some once into a flat sheet in order to cut some wingtip navigation lights out of. I just poured a bit into a little tray and let it set up. I *think* I also used it for some clear instrument p...

I've used Testor's Dullcoat for years over oil/acrylic combinations. Some are 20+ years old, still holding up fine. For nearly as long my process has been: Acrylics -> Future Floor Acrylic -> Oils and other weathering -> Dullcoat And the Future will hold up to the q-tip+thinner to clean off extra d...

I'm looking for recommendations on thinner ratio and PSI for the Tamiya clears. Generally I thin Tamiya acrylic paint 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner and spray about 18 psi. But people are suggesting thinning the clears 50/50 or even 20/80 (paint to thinner). Any suggestions on using these? I can't...

I've all but abandoned CA altogether because of its abbreviated shelf life. Lost count of how many hardened CA bottles I threw out. Still have a few cans of CA accelerator. I don't think that stuff ever goes bad. Try the old Wal-Mart Loctite in the clear, conical bottle with black ribbed cap. They ...

CA was designed to glue flesh and skin, good pull but no shear strength. Hence not feasable for attaching heavy parts. Urban legend told among us modelers. ;) It was originally designed for making acrylic-like optics on anti-aircraft guns as well as manned machine guns on aircraft (like those on bo...

Why not buy a small kit or two to get an idea of how the materials behave? You can buy simple rockets or saucers and add onto it if you want. A kit doesn't have to be a huge investment and you get to mess around with glue and paint that would aid in your construction. Seconded. It's an ordeal to un...