Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Matty1973 wrote:How would I go about converting it into a 9v system? Just change the battery pack and the resistor?

Yep - and that resistor needs to be even higher in value than just changing the LEDs to lower voltage ones

Calculations say that 2.2v LED's running off a 9v power source needs a 330 ohm resistor

You'll need to replace the resistor as well - up that to a 120ohm Can you tell me why I would need to change the resistor as well? Just like to know these things Based on the voltage supplied and the resistor in there, it's running 3.5v LED's - I'm thinking they're White Lower voltage LEDs need a h...

You'll need to replace the resistor as well - up that to a 120ohm

10-1 he's up to his eyeballs in flood preparations He lives in Fargo, ND - which is divided from Moorhead, MN by the Red River That sucker floods every year - and his parents have a farm in the flood plain So, he's probably doing what a lot of Fargo/Moorhead residents are doing - filling sandbags La...

If this is the Paste that seems to be drying

Toss it in the microwave for 10-15 seconds - that's how I "revived" my paste a couple years ago

Watch out it doesn't boil over - and make sure the top is un-screwed

Ya, all the LEDs in my parallel circuits are exactly the same, for the reasons stated above. Just re-read your post and am slapping my forehead. You're right, I'm way wrong. It was because I was using a 9v battery as my power source I needed to run my LEDs in parallel and not in series because of t...

I'm running my LEDs in parallel. I seem to remember reading in one of the other threads that LEDs run in parallel use less current. I dunno where - here's how you always calculate for voltage/current series = voltages add, current remains the same parallel = voltage remains the same, current adds S...

I would actually leave the plug on and install a jack in the model Also, make sure the wall-wart is a regulated PS - else add a rectifier circuit to your main board before anything else CD players are more tolerant of voltage variations than LED circuits, so the PS may NOT be regulated, and that sp...

There is that, though you can "cheat" My strobe circuit for the TOS has a Red and a Green - different voltages, but I run them in series, since they use the same current draw 9v->Red(2.2v)->Green(3.2v) = 180ohm Where as 9v->Red = 390ohm and 9v->Green = 330ohm So, one resistor, of a lower v...

All whites? I would have ordered the colored ones - ya, they all are "water clear", which means when off they look like white ones, but the "doping" of the diode determines color Otherwise, ya - you can use transparent paints (Tamiya Acrylics, MM Acryl or even clear art paint fro...

I would actually leave the plug on and install a jack in the model Also, make sure the wall-wart is a regulated PS - else add a rectifier circuit to your main board before anything else CD players are more tolerant of voltage variations than LED circuits, so the PS may NOT be regulated, and that spe...

starmanmm wrote:Never had that issue... as long as I primed first.

I didn't think about that - priming is second nature, I rarely even think about it

Ya, always use a good primer - I use Tamiya grey or white myself

What is "ghosting"? Kinda like when you try to paint with Latex House Paint over where your kid used Magic Markers on the wall Unless you seal it, some of the color will bleed through ------------------------------------------- I've never had this problem with properly measured/mixed Aves...

Got all the pieces of my airbrush/compressor setup put together

No more canned-air (whoopie!!!)

Set the setup and my costs at my blog post

Two of These

and

One of These

Only 165MaH, but fits in the space requirement

Unfortunately, motors are different beasts than lights - reostats are nothing more than high-power potentiometers All they do is vary the voltage coming through, and if a motor doesn't get it's necessary voltage, it just doesn't run. What you want is a Pulse Width Modulator - it incorporates a pot w...

Ambroid, Tenax are my choices

I'd stay away from the MEK - having used it at a job, I know just how nasty that stuff is - and i'm not just talking the smell, though that is..... invasive

I haven't used Testors in 20+years, and never tried Tamiya

I have the same joy with the Loctite CA's - super-thin, thick, black - I've never had a clog in any of them - and some of the bottles I have are running on 2-3 years of usage

You can flatten the domed end of your 3 mm LED and superglue the clear model part to it, using the model part as a "light pipe". You can also shorten the LED itself as long as you don't damage the actual LED crystal or the TEEEENY little gold wire that bridges between the top of the cryst...

Styrene - Ambroid or Tenax
Resin - Super-glue - but get a good brand, not a nameless or "hobby-shop" branded - I stick with Loctite - they have everything from super-thin to black

I see what you mean. I didn't use a diode on my 555 circuit because you can vary the flash through one of the resistors. My circuit only has three resistors, one capacitor, and one LED, in addition to the 555. If I vary the value of R2 on the instructables LED flasher project, I can speed up or slo...

There's lots of different LED ideas here: http://www.instructables.com/id/47-projects-to-do-with-a-555/ Take a look around the net and these forums. You'll find lots of ideas. There are some good tutorials out there as well. This site will help you wire up a simple parallel circuit: http://led.line...

Very handy little item for the neophytes

Old timers like me (and probably Don and John) have the bloody color codes memorized

Good find that

Double post :ptl: Sorry, I couldn't resist. Don't worry; what goes around, comes around :twisted: I have not used that supplier before. I get all my FO from the Fiber Optic Store. They have great prices and monthly specials. Plus you get a free sample pack with each order. http://thefiberopticstore...

Delete

Depends on what the better buy is - and how much hassle you want to put up with getting individual strands out of that bundled cable

For certain jobs (windows on a SD for example) having the bundle for most of the run up then splitting it off for the last few inches might make sense

{Brian the Brain voice}

SIMULTANEOUS!!!

{/Brian the Brain voice}

Uh, John

I was talking "hot" as in "over powering" - he was using less resistor than he should have for the 9v circuit

Always over-resistor rather than under-resistor - your LEDs will last longer

I would be careful of running LED's "hot"

Sometimes you luck out, others POOF - insta-burnout

When in doubt - always put MORE resistor on the LED circuit than it says - all it will do is dim the LED a bit - run a lower resistor value and you chance blowing the LED

Glad to be of help

Ya, the Madman makes some good stuff - I'd I couldn't do it on my own, his is what I'd buy Couple other books for really basic info "Electronics for Dummies" (ya, they got a 'Dummies' book for that too) - it has a quick blurb on LED's and the formula for figuring out the resistor values &q...