Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Never really thought about it.... I'd check out the local pharmacy. I'll bet they have small eye droppers that would fit that bottle.

It is a solvent type cement. So every time you use the little brush in the cap, it is contaminating the bottle with a small amount of the styrene (and anything that was on the styrene, like ink) So, yes; it is natural. However, I have found that if you place a drop of the cement onto the seam, and a...

Probably very similar to Loctite brand here in the U.S. Very strong, turns a little yellow when dry. I found some Great Planes epoxy at the local hobby shop that was a little lower viscosity and dries almost completely clear. I experimented with casting a few parts with these, and they were quite ac...

Well, I've mentioned this project in a couple of other threads, but I thought I might go ahead and show some progress on it. I started building this as a "practice" build to try out a few new techniques, and polish others before I tackle my PL 1:350 Refit. Being fairly new to lighting, I h...

If you're going to spray bomb it, I'd go with a base coat of light ghost gray, aztec it with a light coat (and I mean REALLY LIGHT - like stand back three feet away from the model LIGHT) of duck egg blue (don't think that's it's official name, but there's something similar on the Tamiya paint rack)....

Badger also sells "Airbrush Restore" that is supposed to be environmentally safe (although the side of the bottle says not to breathe the vapors, etc.) and this is supposed to be able to remove just about every paint and contaminate that one would subject their brush to. I would also sugge...

How big of a flag are you making?

Usually, when I make a paper flag, I print it out on thin paper (both sides on one side of the paper) and fold it over a piece of wire or line with some white glue. Mold the flapping curve of the flag in while the glue is wet, and when it dries, it is quite durable.

I'm going to sound a bit like a broken record, but I have finally gotten the chance to play with more of the Createx AutoAir, and the stuff is incredible. Goes on super smooth, shrinks down tight to just about any surface - including uncoated plexiglass; and comes in just about every color imaginabl...

That looks pretty dag-gone nice!

what materials did you use?
Alumalite?
Oomoo?

I probably do 90% of my paint work with an airbrush. That includes pre-shading, base color, blending, mask work (including aztecs), stencils, weathering, you name it.

I use a 000 spotting brush for fine detail work, and a lot of decals for markings and complex patterns.

I LOVE my airbrush

Use the Tamiya weathering pastels. They have various rust and dirt colors to choose from; and while they are a little more expensive, the results are well worth it.

You could try Super Glue De-Bonder, but I don't know if it will attack the plastic or not. Test it first!

You should be able to pick that up at your local hardware store.

I was just working on an RC plane, and tried a new 30 min. Pro Epoxy from Great Planes. It dried crystal clear. As far as air bubbles, set your piece on top of an aquarium pump or external filter and let it cure. The gentle vibration will work the bubbles to the surface, and the slow drying time giv...

I assume you're talking about the Refit Enterprise from AMT, and you want to fill the mounting holes, correct?

I'd just fill it with the putty of your choice (Aves is fine) let it dry, and sand it smooth.

If this isn't what you're asking about, some photos might be helpful.

Check around with local sign shops or framing shops. Both of these commonly use very large sheets of styrene for various projects. The professional photo lab I use regularly mounts my 11"x14"s - 20"x30"s on heavy styrene sheet. They also use gatorboard, and masonite - both of whi...

Inadvertently is how this usually happens.

Hit it with a layer of Testor's Dull Coat. Nice and foggy.

If you spray it on the inside, the part will retain it's shiny outer surface, while the inside is completely frosted.

I've used Liquitex inks over Tamiya acrylic paint with very nice results. It also thins very nicely with Liquitex or Createx airbrush medium and runs through an airbrush very nicely.

I don't want to offend anyone, or start an argument, but I do have a question. I have seen several people posting that they want to run model lights off of 9V batteries - and then they're wondering why the LED's are burning out after very short amounts of time. Now admittedly, I'm not an electrical ...

Personally The small PCB The blinking LEDs suffer two drawbacks 1) Lower lifespan - you'll need to replace it sooner 2) Non-adjustable blink rate - you're stuck at what the factory set up as the rate With the PCB route, you can customize the blink rate and the LED's will last longer As an example T...

I would seal them with something, especially if you're using a lacquer dull coat like Testors. I have seen decal film get "attacked" by lacquer dull coat - it's not a pretty picuture :zb: Also, a clear coat with a little thickness to it (Future for example) helps hide the edges of the deca...

They look a little large to me.

They are different bases. Tamiya is alcohol, while the Testors is something else. I tried thinning the Testors with my trusty denatured alcohol for airbrushing, only to see the pigment settle out of the mix, creating a gritty sludge in the bottom of my color cup :evil: This, of course, clogged the b...

I'm assuming you're airbrushing the paint layers?. Stay with the good quality acrylic paints and you shouldn't have a problem sanding it. You shouldn't need anything courser than 1200 grit. Tamiya or Gunze work great. I have sprayed several multi-color mask and paint jobs with these, and have rarely...

I wonder if that crap Billy Mayes is always hocking would be close.
https://www.mightyputty.com/flare/next? ... 0101228521

That almost looks like plasti-wood. Works like putty while wet, once dry, it sands like something between balsa and pine. My grandfather used it on his wood-working projects all the time. I'd check at Home Depot or Lowe's.

I've used the Paasche D3000 for the past three years. It is super quiet, and comes with a small air tank attached. The compressor runs long enough to fill the tank and then automatically shuts off. The tank also acts kind of like a capacitor providing a super smooth air flow with or without the comp...

Don't forget the studio model was filmed under studio lights - probably color gel'ed studio lights. Your painting may be extremely accurate, but it is your lighting that is off. When you display it, would it be possible to add one of those small spotlights from Lowes or Home Depot with a light blue ...

No big problem. First thing is to find some blank decal paper. You can order on-line from here: http://www.tangopapadecals.com/ It's a dollar a sheet, with a thirty sheet minimum order. I've heard wonderful things about this paper, currently waiting to receive my first batch from him. I have used a ...

There was a discussion about this kind of thing a few weeks back. What about some simple single effect circuit kits. Add-ons that could be incorporated into larger projects. 1. A simple strobe for navigational beacons 2. Photon torpedo launcher effect 3. Fade up/down (or orange-blue) navigational de...

Thanks for all the help. Here's what I ended up with: http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n393/photoguy_ATS/?action=view&current=IMG_0610.jpg I used short pieces of fishing line super-glued to the model, and then coated them with Mod-Poge (sp) decopage medium. I'm pretty pleased with it. Pretty c...