Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Thanks, Kenny! I used it mixed with Future, to tone down a What-If Corsair I did. Also used it on the Stryker, made it look really greasy. I'll keep on using it, then!

Cool! Thanks for the tips, Ter.

As long as we're talking about this stuff, I have a bottle of black India ink, and a bottle of sepia India ink (both pigmented). Is the any good use for these, or should I just hand them off to the better half?

And don't do what I did, and buy the alcohol-based inks. They do a number on all sorts of finishes, including fogging Future. :evil: As long as we're talking oil paints, can water-based oils be used the same way? I'm trying to go as eco-friendly as I can, as we live with my mother-in-law, and she ha...

Tyler, Get thee to a beauty supply house (Sally's is a good place to go), and pick up a set of nail polishing boards. I got a spiffy one that goes all the way up to (I think) about 4000 grit. Does nice work on canopies, when they're a mess. Oh, and like Robb said, Novus plastic polish is your friend...

Kylwell wrote:You can also use JW etc's matte polyurethane. Thin it and it sprays fine.

I shot some JW Etc's straight through my Eclipse HPCS, and had no problems.

I've had good luck with MMAcryls. I shoot them straight from the bottle (but would probably get better results if I thinned them), and the only problem I ever have with them is cleaning my brush afterward. I got some MM Cleaner (not thinner), and it seems to work tons better for cleaning. My only bi...

Check this out for some sources for free electronic goodies.

Also here

And here

All the usual disclaimers apply...YMMV, void where prohibited by law, etc., etc...

There is a clear pearl from one of the craft paints companies, too. Haven't tried it yet, though.

I can agree with using Windex as a stripper. Dropped the figure in a tub of Windex, and a day later, no paint!

Look in the bottom of the box, under the foam. There should be some Iwata airbrush oil in there. A little drop should cure what ails it. Now, if I could just get the dang thing completely clear after each use, so I don't have to pull out the needle with a pair of jewelers' pliers... :gripe: Any sugg...

I haven't had much luck brushing Apple Barrel. However, Americana and Delta Ceramcoat both work great.

I thin with a little Future, but haven't used Slo-dri.

Okay, Ter. I have a tube of Payne's gray, and I think burnt umber and Vandyke brown. I have the Flo-Aid. Gonna have to get some Slo-Dri.

Any other watercolors you'd recommend?

Anybody interested in some alcohol-based inks, see me at WF...

Hey, one person's tiny is another person's huge...

What can I say? I've got big hands!

I'd say check Radio Shack, as we used to have some pretty tiny connectors, at least by my standards.

Do you have Radio Shacks in the Netherlands?

Anybody used the Liquitex acrylic inks? They seem to have a huge variety, and I know I've seen them at Hobby Lobby.

Looks like I'm on the search for Daler-Rowney inks, then...

Kitty--

This link might be better, still.

LDB

EDIT: Look under W.S. Deans. They have some pretty small plugs that might just suit you. You can also check out the servo pigtails, as they have tiny 4-pin plugs and wires.

Kitty--

Check your local radio controlled hobby shop. There are several really tiny connectors that may interest you. Tower Hobbies has quite a few that may interest you.

Cool, PG, I'll have to check them out. I think Hobby Lobby has Liquitex inks.

Good suggestion, Mark, but I'm trying to get away from lacquers, and oils. 2 questions: 1) Can anybody recommend a line of water-based inks? I have some Dr. Ph. Martin's inks and some alcohol-based stamping inks (the name eludes me). Since they are alcohol-based, that ain't gonna work B) Would water...

Hey, gang, just had a really weird experience. I was trying some alcohol-based ink as a wash on some Tamiya and Gunze acrylics, and suddenly, the paints were lifting right off the parts. What did I do wrong? The paints had been cured for several weeks (hey, I'm slow...sue me! :mrgreen: ) Should I ha...

Yep! That little technique got me into a bit of a fix on another build. Guess it'll get a dunk into the windex shortly...

Figures it would happen AFTER I decalled it...

Flip a switch?

WHAT?!?!?!?

Probably already covered, but I came up with a neat use for Future: I wasn't happy with how clean one of my builds was, so I added some black and some sepia India ink to a little Future, mixed well, and PRESTO! Instant, toned-down paint! I did, however, go a little overboard, so I'm going to have to...

DNJ-- If you have a Hobby Lobby nearby, wait for the 40% off coupon (sign up for their emails, and they will send it to you), and go score you an Iwata SmartJet. I think I paid less than $150 for mine, plus the lazy teenager running the register threw in the hose because he didn't want to look for a...

Always with the fire... TheJimi hasn't learned that the best way is with high explosives!

Ask TheJimi about heating a can of paint on the stove...

Or should I say, ask TheTami...

Did you think about using CA to make the icicles? Put a drop of thick CA, hit with accelerator, repeat until you get the desired length. I did that to give my Halcyon Alien Warrior the proper amount of drool.

The transparencies on my KiTech Blue Thunder kit, well, were not transparent...more translucent. After a dip in Future, they are crystal clear!

Do it, Dark Clown. You won't be able to thank yourself enough!

If you are airbrushing, spray away from the tape edge. That sometimes helps.

Viper1-- I second the wearing chem-resistant gloves. Lacquer (cellulose) thinner HURTS on bare skin. I was dumb enough to wipe down a car that was going to be painted, and did it bare-handed. I had peeling skin for almost a week. You can also use spray-on oven cleaner (Easy Off), the purple Super Cl...