Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

They're not solid.

I think the tubes look good where they are.

I prefer Aves over resin to just about anything else. The resin and putty are so similar in consistency, iof it weren't for the color difference it would be hard to tell where one ended and the other began.

Actually this is a pretty good idea. You'll be able to work out the bugs without the grief involved with troubleshooting a much larger project. Plus you'll find out if you're still in love with the design, and want to continue, or move on to something else. It's rough, pouring a couple hundred hours...

You could possibly heat them over the stove. Keep the plastic moving over the heating element. Or, since this is a fairly shallow curve, you might be able to get away with just using a heat gun. Third option, each hull half is broken into quarters, fore and aft by the box that goes between the mandi...

This question has been asked before, and as I recall, there is precious little reference material out there. All, (or nearly all) is from screen grabs. With this in mind, it may not be a bad thing. It leaves you open to do what you want with it. Use the pictures you have, but let your imagination fi...

Nice shapes there. It ought to look really good once you start the plastic version and add a ton of details.

Kylwell wrote:It is a mixture of saturated aliphatic and alicyclic C7 to C12 hydrocarbons with a maximum content of 25% of C7 to C12 alkyl aromatic hydrocarbons.

[ROBBie voice]Will eighty gallons be sufficient?[/ROBBie voice]

Another easy and low-impact weathering agent I've come to dislike - chalks. Artists chalks and harder chalks. While you can get an absolutely incredible effect with them, you should pop that murph under a glass cover as soon as you're done and never touch it again. I agree 100%. Pastels are just no...

Maybe it needs something to bite into. Have you tried going over it with a flat coat?

Yes. I'd coat them with Future, and depending on the finish you're after, coat the whole model with Future. Then either a dull or satin finish, or go right straight to washes. Filters work better with dull coats.

Yes.

*edit*

Actually, I would have put the decals on before the wash. You don't want the panel line to disappear under the decal.

Very nice start! Add a few details with strip stock and cast many copies. About how big is this?

Alex Dumas wrote:

scratchy wrote:.25) pencil
.5) chop-it
.75) sheet of glass
1) ...

Hey, no cheating

What's the sheet of glass for?

Millennium Falsehood occasionally likes to leap through a plate of glass, when he gets in his Action Hero mode...

I'm not a big fan of the baking soda / super glue method. Many years ago I used it on almost everything, but over time the joins become brittle and fall apart. In fact the project I'm working on now is an SR-71 I built 17 years ago. I'm rebuilding it to see if I can do a better job this time. Fortun...

I picked up mini table and chop saws from Harbor Freight. The table saw uses a 4" blade, chop saw 2" blade. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6125/5922671691_0d5c896011_b.jpg http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6008/5923236780_0c6ae3bf01_b.jpg They worked OK as is, but I modified them by building...

Umi_Ryuzuki wrote:I stopped by a friends house the other day,... He's building a laser cutter...



I hope I get to use when it's finished.

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Very cool. What is he using for a laser?

I agree that it is difficult to apply rules to this. But as a rule of thumb, I build from the inside out. Details that are inside the model, such as cockpits, engines, open hatches, blast damage, etc, must be built and painted before general assembly. The same thing applies to lighting, you really h...

Yes, I've thermoformed .010 clear styrene. I've also used clear plastic from a 2 liter pop bottle. The bottle plastic actually works a little better.

You could probably do it at low speed, using coarse sandpaper.

Four days and no answers? You'll probably have better luck in the Lighting and Electronics Forum.

It might help to sand the surfaces first. Also don't try to do the whole surface at once. Start at one end, add a little cement, roll it down, add a little more cement, etc.

Ancient Inca flying machine! Explains how they painted the Nazca lines.

The Voot ought to be easy enough. As Umi says, sketch it out, then build styrene bulkheads that match the curves of all the round sections. Fill these in with foam, (pink or blue insulation foam), and cover with a thin sheet of Aves. Sand smooth, prime, and repeat as necessary. Or you can skip the b...

Flat paints look brighter than gloss paints for the same reason that snow is brighter than water. Flat colors refract and scatter light whereas gloss colors merely reflect it. As a result, a model painted with bright, flat colors, if done correctly, will look as if the light is coming from within.

What resin kit are you building?

But you're going to do it anyway, right?

That's a great article Ter, thanks!

I must respectfully disagree with Harry. I've masked over Model Master buffing metallizers with Tamiya tape, electrical tape, and Parafilm-M without issue. Perhaps it depends on the primer used. In any case, if it still pulls up, you can clear coat between each coat using whatever you prefer. I use ...

Hi newozbuilder, welcome to the forums. There are quite a few scratchbuilders here, some of them are so good they make me want to quit modeling forever. Be sure and show us your work in progress. Good luck!