Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Those look pretty cool https://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/spo ... RYQAvD_BwE

What's a good way to wipe off a wash and leave the paint in recesses? I have some pretty shallow panel lines and a cotton swab just removes everything. So do the tiny specialized pointy hobby cotton swabs. Maybe just a paper towel on a finger? Sometimes the simplest is the best. Figure or squeegee ...

I've had the same issue with their Air primer. Lacks adhesion.

The new "Premium Color" line is an acrylic-polyurethane blend. Their polyurethane primers are, of course, polyurethane. The rest are acrylic based.

I've been using Vallejo pretty much since they showed up. They're great for hand brushing as they level out very nicely. It is highly recommended that you use their thinner. Water will do in a pinch but it may curdle the paint leaving you with a stringy mess. Even the Air version may need some thinn...

PVC piping typically has a hard relatively inert surface. A quick swipe with some sandpaper removes it and can greatly improve adhesion.

I've also used Hasegawa & Tamiya's scribing saws as saws. Very thin. Very fine.

And if you want to Dremel it... https://widgetsupply.com/product/blw70.html

Mixing ground pastels with water, and a little surfactant, is what's known as a 'sludge wash'. Great for getting dirty and will also demonstrate the abrasive qualities of re-ground pastels. Very finely ground pastels are often used as water streaks, laying down a thin filter then gently dragging a d...

I don't personally like to use too much super glue or putty fillers.I used to use nothing buy superglue to fill in everything combined with the accellerator you spray on after.Kind of stinky and messy.The accellerator spray everywhere sand I'm not sure it is a great thing to be breathing.You can ad...

Use methylene chloride instead.

Yes but far too many people used it in less that adequate ventilation. You can still pick it up in hardware stores if you really need a fix.

jpolacchi wrote: ↑Tue May 15, 2018 2:59 pm Too bad MEK was taken off the shelves.It was great for melting styrene and ABS together.

and highly toxic.

duck wrote: ↑Wed May 02, 2018 10:10 am Kylwell, is there a specific Gorilla CA glue to look for or is it just Gorilla CA?

You'll want the blue cap CA. It used to say "rubber toughened" or some such but now it's just "Impact Tough".

My desk collection https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/1380152_10203383999260045_289906480_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=v1%3AAeG-l2TCcr4MW8AowPTRBkb8TQwb7zrQNwnBq-9SsB_c3ONFGgDlUAJXVkqAXyH4MknOCLP97qiQGhet9iP4wVAF0D23XvbNt1rm6Uxuz5D10g&oh=45a28968947ed901c02f49cbedda6250&oe=5B8EE8F6

OdysseySlipways wrote: ↑Sat Apr 28, 2018 10:25 pm and they are?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly-cap

OdysseySlipways wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 11:55 pm gyro-caps?

Also known as "poly-caps".

The Gorilla glue has a superior cap to Zap. Lasts much longer and rarely, I've been using it for years, clog up. Mercury Adhesives is even better but harder to find.

1/350 Martson matting would be more perforated than mesh. IIRC the holes were about 4 inch in diameter giving you a .3mm hole in 1/350 scale. There are, as a note, a number of companies that make it in photoetch.

I have tried it and was not a fan but that was long ago enough that they may have re-formulated it. Largely it didn't stick and took forever to dry. Far prefer Aves, Mr. Surfacer 500, & rubber impregnated CA.

Oh and then there is Box.

Which has my PE, Adler's Nest, Wave, Bandai Builders parts, Kotobukiya, Hi-Q, Kandi Korp, Evergreen, & Plastruct bits. It's a lot of plastic & metal packed into a plastic file box.

I have a dozen or so little drawers labeled as to what's in them. Roundy things, pointy things, really tiny things, flat plates, tubes, etc...

Alclad II Aqua Gloss Klear Kote Varnish (ALC600) is chemically almost identical to Future. I've not tried hand-painting this on, but it coats well enough with a cheap spray-gun until you replace your airbrush. It goes on Alclad finishes without destroying the metallic look. Is there any advantage t...

Well, first what silvers & clear coats have you used? Spray can, brush, or airbrush?

Though I could get one of those $20 box fans...they move around 2500 CFM...;) Yes but ducting one down reduces the flow through unless you want a 18in hole to the outside. Hence the cost of high cfm blowers. To answer dreadpyrat, yes this would mean more fans across the back. When exhausting rememb...

If you're looking for a water soluble base coat I'd recommend Vallejo's acrylic-polyurethane surface primer. It's big drawback is it's not sandable for about a week, depending on your humidity.

Pretty much any mesh, even cheese cloth, will help reinforce things. You can go gonzo and use carbon fiber cloth, even wire cloth. The big trick is a thin layer of gel, let partially harden, then lay in the cloth and cover with more resin. This stops the cloth from poking through onto the surface.

https://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/ will build to requirements. Wire length, power source, pre-wired with resistors.

I use 32 awg 7/40 for damned near everything. It'll handle usual LED power loads w/o an issue and fits well into tiny places. The multi-strand makes soldering stronger and easier (I've found).

Widget Supply is where I get my bits from, $2.29 for 10, decent HSS ones.

https://www.widgetsupply.com/product/BEH48.html