Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Could it be that the resin is till curing/gassing out? When I got my Anigrand Star Destroyer I got a contact high when I opened the box from the fumes!!!! It wasn't oily but the smell went away after a few days. Maybe soak it and let it sit for a few days before primering.

The sixth colum over gives dimensions in millimeters.

Here you go-

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes

On my cricket phaser the whole emitter (black section) is clear red resin. It has a 3,000mcd 5mm LED in it. It needed serious light blocking! I used Duplicolor grey primer followed by Krylon flat black. Check out the video. It worked pretty good. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v606/directorcass/?...

If you want to power 2 or 3 LEDs you can use two button cell batteries. Try some LR1130's. They are thinner than the common 357's that come in most electronic gadgets and still put out 1.5v each. If you can't fit a holder in there for them you could use aluminum tape to secure the leads to the batte...

Dupli-color makes a white, 2 grays, black and brown/red primers. I keep all on hand and the filler primer too. The light gray is the closest to Tamiya. Most auto parts stores and big box stores have them. I just picked up the Dupli Color grey primer for my Cricket Phaser as I was going to use autom...

I have heard of this before but never tried it. It definately has some possibilities in our little hobby!

Try mixing a drop or two of regualr 'ol Elmers white glue in your water bowl. I have found this helps to creat a better "stick" to the models surface. It does not soften decals and may not work well over sharp surafce edges. But it has helped me in the past with silvering over a flat surfa...

It can be done. Do you have a picture of the board? Just make sure you take the batteries out first. Clip the leads, leaving a bit of a stub you can grab with tweezers or needle nose pliers. Then heat the solder at the board where the lead passes thru it. Holding the stub with pliers it should come ...

O.K. this is what I just finished working on. It's the Cricket phaser from ST-TNG. The board can handle 6v to 9v. The problem is that it seems to drain small coin batteries. I can only fit three of the common 357 type batteries in there for 4.5v. I had some cheapo chinese LR44's (390's) that are thi...

The project that I am working on is a hand held prop, not a static model kit.

here is a hint.......

I hear "crickets"....................................

I am working on a project and need a small 6v lithium battery. It needs to fit in a space the size of 3 button cell batteries. An 'N' size battery is just a bit too big. The more Mah the better. I could also do a rechargeable lithium battery as well since I think they are pretty flat. I have searche...

You could also use fiber optic as well. How big is the hole?

Double post Sorry, I couldn't resist.

I have not used that supplier before. I get all my FO from the Fiber Optic Store. They have great prices and monthly specials. Plus you get a free sample pack with each order.

http://thefiberopticstore.com/

I usually buy a spool of single strand.

You can use a Dremel and a sanding drum to sand down the outside of the LED. I have done this in the past, taking a 3mm LED dow to less than 1mm. Of course only sand down the area above the metal bits inside. Give it a try.

For small parts I find myself using Tamiya clear acrylic more and more. Not as thin as Future, it's a bit more "sticky" but still dries crystal clear.

Post your specs in here.

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

Well a lot have been swooning over those mini plugs. At $12 for wired plugs sounds like a great deal. But of course there are other options if you can do it yourself, check these out. Compare prices.

http://www.radicalrc.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=56

From reading the threads on this effect all I have seen it used on are Enterprise kits. That means a white top coat. That means white paint over the untouched plastic underneath with some decals on top. The more you add over the unpainted underside the less of the effect you will have. I'm not sure ...

Wug wrote:Did they spam you?

http://www.siteadvisor.com/sites/thefiberopticstore.com

I haven't got anything.

This is where I buy all my fiber optics. Great shipping time and you get a free sample pack with every order.

http://thefiberopticstore.com/

You could also give it a very light sanding with 4,000 grit sandpaper from a paint polishing kit. I have one from LMG that goes from 3,200 up to 12,000 grit.

For attaching really small detail parts like PE and the like, sometimes I will use clear Tamiya acrylic paint or Future. The Future is a lot thinner than the clear Tamiya though.

By the way, that BOP still looks very, very nice!

Not all blue tape is the same. Stick with 3M brand. The lime green 3M tape is an automotive tape. Still very low tack. You could also try Parafilm or just plain ole Post-it notes, depending on what your masking.

You can get a bottle of Apple Barrel acrylic paint (water based) at Walmart for about $0.94. Or coffee grounds.....or watery mud. Thats about as cheap as you can get.

Those blast marks look fantastic! Great job. I never tried the match technique before. I may have to give it a try.

I use black pastel chalk to do blast marks. This turned out well on my SS X-Wing. I just took the stick itself and nicked the model in places. Seal it with dull coat.

You could try a white wax pencil or white artists pencil. You can find these at Hobbylobby or any good arts and craft store. You can also find something similar at fabric stores.

Great looking build on your refit by the way. I always wanted to see someone do this. If you need any help just ask away!

Well, you need to know the basics of your LEDs first, what the foward voltage is, etc. If your using white LEDs 3v will be fine to power them. The colred LEDs will need a slightly lower voltage requiring resistors. What type depends on what your power source will be. If you do a 3v power supply you ...