Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Kylwell wrote:I still try not to spray model cement around, might get in my eye...

The MSDS for Rustoleum's Painters Touch Frosted Glass says it's 50% toluene, 40% acetone, 10% other nasty ≠♀§#&@(§.

Thats why I use it outside.

Here is a 12v 4 channel battery operated remote transmitter and receiver that is sold by tech and computer hardware sites all over the internet: http://www.elogisys.com/viewsku.asp?SKUID=RM04&DID=REMOTE I was looking at this for my setup but opted against it. It says it controls 12V appliances,...

The best flat finish I've found so far is Rustoleum Painters Touch Frosted Glass. Dead flat finish with no hazing or discoloring of the paint below.

Don't use future. Use automotive lacquer for your clear. Let it dry for about 10 minutes after you apply it, then lightly mist it with the retarder that is recommended for that brand of paint. Repeat until you get the depth of finish and shine that you want. Its an old automotive painters trick, and...

I would like to set up my current 1/350 Enterprise model display so the light functions can be turned on and off via remote control so I can control it from across the room. It would need to be a 4 control function set up, and be connectable to the wires that will be run down into the eventual custo...

Tamiya adjusted their labels and the stuff is coming back in now. My local Hobbytown is restocking big time.

Tamiya adjusted their labels and the stuff is coming back in now. My local Hobbytown is restocking big time.

They guys at Hobbytown say they use Windex to thin this stuff.

They guys in my local Hobbytown rave about this brand, calling them the best paints ever and the easiest to use.

I decided to try this brand of paint out, so I bought a bottle of white and a bottle of black. The black hand brushed pretty good, but the white behaved like a pile of goop. No coverage ability, and it didn't level out at all. It was like brushing on silicone glue. Is this normal, or did I just get ...

I'm going to be doing a Rebellion Creations 1/350 TOS Enterprise, and need to come up with a way of doing the rotating bussards. I don't want to use a rotating fan or similar approach since I don't want the model to make any noise. I'm aware of DLMs boards for the 22 inch cutaway, but they would be ...

I've recently started using Montana Gold rattle cans on my acrylic back-lit displays. I had been using Krylon Fusion, but it was taking several coats to make it completely opaque. Two coats of the Montana Gold black and I can hold it inches from a super-bright desktop light and nothing gets through...

I've been using Dupilcolor's Bumper Coating Material out of the rattle can as a light blocking/bleed coating, but It seems as if they've changed its pigment density so it now is no different than black spray paint. What are other choices for a light blocking coat? Since in a few cases it will need t...

Try the Duplicolor Self Etching Primer. Its green. I find it bites into the surface extremely well.

Its white glue, but its a more viscus version of it. Its made so it won't run or drip.

Mine didn't come with the tube poll for it, but it didn't matter since I also ordered the custom display base for it from Trekmodeler also. The power supply I picked up from Radio Shack.

Matty1973 wrote:does anyone have a link to the instructions of the prebuilt kit, i would really love to start doing some prep work before the kit arrives, which at this point think will be six weeks away

You can ask him to e-mail you an Adobe PDF of the instructions.

Interference pearls, or opalescent pearls as sometimes called. I can fix you up with the exact colors if you like.

I ordered my Trekmodeler kit on Sunday, the DIY kit because I've got soldering experience and to me I'd rather spend the hours assembling the lighting kit because IMO its part of the overall build as long as you have the ability. I'm not building for a client so why cut corners. Hopefully I'll get ...

Oh no! That means the beautiful 1/350 Ent-A I just finished that I painted with all acrylic lacquers will go from bright clean white to yellow!

Dupilcolor Self Etching primer. The green stuff. Works great.

Sparky wrote:Ya! did you use the air brush on the secondary hull avionics bay?

No, I let it dry out on its own.

The problem has corrected itself.

before aves' it test again, if possible leave them running will clamping and gluing, since its the clamping that's likely to gouge or pinch a wire bundle. Yeah I did that. Its working still. All Aves up now and waiting for a final quick sanding. I'm still waiting for the running lights to return to...

Inspect for wires that were pinched hard enough to be cut, depending on the gauge wire , you can pinch cut them with a plastic edge. Ribbon cable like what is used for older Internal hard drives, I have personally seen pinch cut while dry fitting models together. I moved the main relay in the sauce...

I managed to get the the saucer open, and that restored both functions. Still no blinking running lights though.

I have big problem here. Everything was working perfectly when I installed all the electronics, sealed up the model, puttied and wet sanded all the joints, and put the whole thing together. Now all of a sudden Warp Mode doesn't work. When I flip it on everything shuts down and the flood and thruster...

Solvaset is pretty darn strong, but I have found some decals resist it. The decals that come with the Round 2 Star Trek kits are pretty resistant to Microsol. Has anyone else tried Solvaset on them? I tried Solvaset on the aztecs for the 1/350 Enterprise kit and got no better results than with Micr...

Is there a decal setting solution available that is stronger than Microsol and Solvoset?

White glue is useful for filling in seams between decks and bulkheads on ship models. I've used it for that with good results, as well as gluing on clear parts.