Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Use what ever type of glue works best for you. As for me I use testors nontoxic in the blue tube and when I apply it I go around the rim makeing dots and then I spread it out by running the side of the 'mouth' all the way around the rim before I put the pieces together.

Those 2 posts asnwers my question.

Kylwell wrote:

irishtrek wrote:Or why not add the future to what's going into the mold???

You mean mix the Future into the resin?

Yep.

Or why not add the future to what's going into the mold???

Heck, why not just spray the Future onto the parts after they have been removed from the mold??

Not funny.

I do believe so, at least I think I've seen them at artmedia.

One can always buy acrylic flouresent paints at an arts and craft store such as Michaels and they come in red blue orange green.

I sw the title for this thread and I thought it was for the Model Master paint by Testors and not some other MM brand of paint. $130.00 for a gallon????!!!!

Beaveranger wrote: smells almost exactly like Red Bull.... if that helps.

Some one once pointed out to me that Red Bull has bull vile in it.

You're welcome!!

what ever glue you try it could end up oozing out the side. My suggestion is this apply a little dab of glue and take say a paper clip un bent and spread the glue along the length of the styrene strip and then place styrene strip onto model and you should be able to align and you can always wipe awa...

Back a few years ago I went and used a small can of light-medium blue enamel on my big PL refit and a couple of hours or so later I went and sprayed some acrylic laquer on the neck and in less than a minute the cracks appeard!!

I take it you want to have cracks in your paint job?? If so then first paint with enamel paints followed by laquer paints before the first coat can cure all the way through.

For a first coat of paint I prefer to use a rattle can of grey or white and then airbrush the main colors onto my models because acrilics will stick to any paint better than just plastic.

www.federationmodels.com take a look around and you should find what you're looking for.

Dull/flat clear coat.

www.testors.com and click on model master paints.

DEE-CAL!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just keep in mind that not every person is the same size or hight to be more precise.

One could always put the tape down on some scrap plasitc in order to make it less sticky before putting it onto the model to be painted.

so which product is not obsolete here in the US and where can I get a tube/can of this acrylic putty, and how much does it cost on average??

Do what I do, place the jar in a cup of some type UPSIDE down and poor just enough rubbing alcholo so t it comes up to the bottom of the lid and let it soak for as long as needed. Or just take 2 pairs of plyors 1 to 'grab' the bottle and the other to 'grab' the lid and twist in opposite directions....

Do what I do, place the jar in a cup of some type UPSIDE down and poor just enough rubbing alcholo so t it comes up to the bottom of the lid and let it soak for as long as needed. Or just take 2 pairs of plyors 1 to 'grab' the bottle and the other to 'grab' the lid and twist in opposite directions.

I've only used 2 different ways of removing oaint, Pine-sol and Simple Green. The latter is safe for clear pieces but I would not recomend Pine-Sol for clear pieces after seeing what it does to colored styrene and you should leave any pieces soaking in Simple Green for at least 2 weeks.

Some thimg else you may want to consider is the primer and metalic paint both enamel or just 1 of them?

Sorry but your link aint workin'.

Thomas E. Johnson wrote:Oh no! That means the beautiful 1/350 Ent-A I just finished that I painted with all acrylic lacquers will go from bright clean white to yellow!

It should only take a few years and they will not be very yellow, just a yellow tinge just enough to notice.

I sprayed 2 kits using Plasit-Kote laquer and after a few years they did turn yellow.

On stripping a kit down, i have used easy-off oven cleaner with a great deal of success. It removes paint and decals as well, and goes back to the plastic without damaging it. (although I would be careful around clear plastics such as windows and canopies). In any event, seeing as you have a resin ...