Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Yep. Check the thread . MacDaddy, why not use common plasticine? (playdoh). It's plasticity will help cushion the impact by absorbing the energy. I would suggest using "noodles" of plasticine, because the space between strands would give the egg a less sudden deceleration. By the way, well...

Putty is grained, so it WILL crack and crumble under any real stress. Because of that, it CAN'T be used as adhesive. In you case, however, you can "double up". Use epoxy adhesive (I think its slow setting will be best than CA's fast setting) on the center of the gluing area, and a bit of p...

And you can make a bunch of such "velcro sanding pads" with varied coarseness ahead of time. If you use sanding film and epoxy adhesive, the whole shebang is waterproof, and perfect for wet-sanding (you can even do it in the sink, UNDER the water, because electric toothbrushes are waterpro...

You can also go the needle way. Mount the switch inside the model, and drill a tiny hole so a sewing needle (or straightened paper clip, or a pin, or an acupunture needle, you get the idea) could be inserted into the hole and hit the switch (just like the "reset" on Palms or emergency ejec...

If you want to lighten your project even further, try peeling the paper off one of the sides of the foam core board (the inside, so that no one will see it) and you'll save some weight.

kylwell wrote:Airtight freezer bags aren't. Or at least just about every plastic bag I know of is gas permiable. The freezer bag would probably reduce the amount of moisture.

How about putting the bottle inside a glass bottle with a tight screw lid? Maybe with a packet of silica gel to curb moisture.

"Standard" nail polish remover is basically acetone cut with isopropyl alcohol, with a few things thrown into, such as coloring (so you can see better the level inside the bottle), thickening agents (so it doesn't run as freely as plain acetone/isopropyl, meaning less "splashing"...

After I posted the reply above, I got thinking: You can also make a free-standing rubber part! Theoretically (I haven't actually tried it, but you might have a shot at it – if it works, give us feedback): mold the shape of the covering of the joint out of chalk (remember to allow for the thickness...

How big is the "gap" that'll have to be covered with the "canvas"? 1/8", 1/4", 1/16"? I would suggest you to "paint" the covering on with liquid masking latex. Place a bit of cotton or a small "shape" of rubber foam (just enough to provide a &qu...

Stu Pidasso wrote:

Joseph C. Brown wrote: *SNIP* about using clean cat litter *SNIP part 2*

AH! There's my problem...

You can always make an Arrakis diorama... (I'll just leave it at that)

The cracking you have is because the drill is breaking to the other side unsupported. Back it up tightly with something solid, like cured epoxy putty, instead of clay. Apart from that, do as people tell you, work SLOOOOWly. Start the holes with the drill, keep going to bigger bits as needed, change ...

You want to have use of BOTH switches or to REPLACE the switch already in place with another one in another location?

I'm no expert or anything, but... ...3V circuit to run 3.5V LED's (30mA)...from the calculations I have done, I need resistors of -0.01666 value. R= (3 - 3.5)/30 Have I done this right? Yes. The -0.01666 value means you don't need a resistor, (the supplied voltage is less than the drop of the LED) a...

I myself divide my hoard in two "genres": "Big stuff" and "Small stuff". Big stuff: things that may become "important" parts, like engine nozzles, tanks, hulls, main guns etc. Usually bottles, caps, parts of printers, christmas ornaments, PVC pipe fixtures... ...

Waste not want not. I have parts in my 'treasure chest' older than my 25 year-old son. All unused parts always get dumped in there - no matter how useless they may appear to be. I had boxes and boxes of stuff, that the ex wife helped me think I had outgrown.. my 2nd wife understands not to touch th...

You could even mix the suggestions: get brass tube (square, rectangular, the shape of the hole you need), heat it up...

The truth of the matter is: you can't get those spotlight effects with lights IN the model. For the filming, the actual spots were placed off the model and projected with narrow, shaped beams (tight focus and with a "mask" to shape the spotlight to an ellipse). So, if you want the same eff...

There are some paints (more precisely printing inks) that stick to polyethylene, 'cause we've all seen bottles made of it with "labels" printed on them. That may be a start, but I think a more effective approach would be to apply bare metal foilâ„¢ or similar. Adhesives DO stick to polyeth...

Latex is your best choice, because its water/ammonia base will not affect acrylics or enamels. Rubber cement, on the other hand, is based on organic solvents which may affect enamels (softening/removing them). As a bonus, latex masking liquid can be used as a mold material for small parts (very smal...

Or you could go that extra mile and replace the gun barrels with tubing (if you can find hypodermic needles of the right diameter). That's the usual procedure for aircraft modelers to do the wing-mounted cannons of WWII planes.

...sets of thin teflon or nylon tubes used for superglue. The tube is inserted into the nozzle of your superglue bottle (some versions use an adapter cap). The superglue does not stick to the plastic used for the tubing, but will eventually harden and clog it. The good thing is that the tubes are d...