Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I go with the stuff that my LHS sells.
They are resin kit producers and also supply many other makers with stuff.

Operating Power Loader?

I got a combined regulator/water-trap with and extra inline filter.

You can try what I often do.

Take a toothpick and gently scrap the paint off. If you make a minor scratch another tip in future should hide it.

HTH.

It is an additive to glossy paints to make them flatter.

HTH.

I have had good results by using a coat of metallic colour and than a coat of clear yellow to produce a gold effect.

Something I learned from the local FSS guys.

Also back in the days were kits that had a supplied gold-colour that you applied over the chromed parts.

Mr Leveling Thinner if you are airbushing, if not Mr Thinner should do.

Best stuff I found for it.

big-dog wrote:Once you try wet sanding you will hate dry sanding. You will only dry sand when you basolutely have to.

Got to agree here wet-sanding changed my life and never looked back.

Actually I often use non-foaming shaving gel for wet-sanding.

A tip I learned from a friend who builds kits professionaly.

Wet sanding is a method where you wet suitable sandpaper or sanding sponges(my preferred method). It helps keeping sanding dust down(important if you work with resin), etc. In short it helps keep the surface cleaner and thus allows better control. My preferred method is to keep a bowl of water handy...

Cheers, How about brand quality then? What brands should I stick to/avoid? Badger, Iwata, Tamiya, Wave, Olympus, Gunze, etc are all good ones. Actually most of them regardless of brand name come from the same factory. My friend owns Iwata brushes but uses Olympus spares I get for him at my LHS. IMH...

IMO, buy cheap now and you will end up paying triple as you will need to replace the current setup soon. Airbrushes like compressors are very personal and really depend on your needs, environment and what is comfortable for you. Myself living in an apartment so I can't use a noisy compressor and tha...

Word of warning.

A lot of the pics in Hobby japan are photoshopped, seen the originals vs the photos at many LHS.

Either way for red I would go with a white primer.

Did you have a look at the Tamiya Titanium Gold and Silver colours?
Those paints were formulated to match the Honda GP Bikes.

From what I can see no specific colour given.

Plus, it looks like he used a green as a base colour and than another colour to do the highlites and edges.

HTH.

Personally got good results with both Tamiya and Gunze smoke.
Both need to be thinned though.

Pat Amaral wrote:How come nobody has ever translated any of the other instruction sheets?

How much are you willing to pay for a translation?

Guys, that do that stuff for a living don't come cheap.
HLJ did you guys a favour by providing the info for the X-Wing.

Mr. Leveling Thinner has the Mr. Retarder already added in.

Never seen the first one. 2nd one is a common diaphram(sic) compressors, but restrictions are a pulsing on the airflow, tends to overheat after about 15 minutes, etc. Don't get me wrong great for some work, but not a heavy duty compressor. If you are on a tight budget it might be best to invest in a...

For raised ejector marks, nothing helps than sanding them down. For recessed ejector marks you can either fill them with putty or a punched out disc from sheet styrene and than sand them down. Nasty ones are the ones located in a curve of the body, etc. Sometimes it takes multiple passes of putty an...

I often strip plated models and redo the look.
Yellow over silver simulates gold well, etc.

For some items I will lay first down a layer of silver adhesive tape and than paint it with clear colours, gives a better result than any silver paint I found.

HTH.

IMO, I have seen models that were too bright, i.e. unrealistic.
They looked like someone positioned a huge halogen light in each window.

I think lighting effects can be overdone.

I concur on the pinvise.

Once bought a kit with fiber-optics and and an electronic drill, what a disaster and a pain too boot.

One piece of advise though with the CA, it depends on if you use glass or fiber wires. One of those can crack and react with the CA, think it is the fiberglass ones though.

Great links, thanks. I bought 2 cans of Tamiya paint. the haze grat color chip here really doesn't look anything like the colored caps on the paints. the haze gray cap looks exactly like a neutral gray and the color chip here, looks almost like a light green of some kind :shock: :?: , how accurate ...

No go. Linky don't work.

How does your site differ from the info posted on the IPMS Stockholm site?

rpauly beat me to it.

Always happens when I have to pop out for a bit.

What scale and what type of figure?

I use Mr thinner or Mr leveling thinner for both the Putty and Mr Surfacer.

So I think you should be good.

I get it via my LHS or from here:

http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZP-119

Gunze's pre-thinned putty I think is as close as you will get.