Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

You could try a very light sanding with some wet 600 grit, That could cut down the edges. Try it in a less noticeable area first.

Same problem we have here in SoCal. They just don't stock it, and a lot of people look at you with blank stares when you ask about it. You might ask if someone here on the boards who can get it for you, cut it up, box it up and ship it to you.

You're not alone. Our local Hobby People in Pasadena is nearly out of everything! Luckily I found a small action figure shop in Temple City that still has some.

I would guess about the same. Tamiya sprays are really nice and put down a smooth finish. Airbrush can just get into spots cans can't. If I'm spraying a base color, though, I have a habit of buying two bottle just in case something stupid happens and I need more. Been having a hard time finding any ...

I spray Tamiya primer from the rattle can, but blow their acrylics though my airbrush. They can go quite far as you need to thin them quite a bit anyway. It's easier to clean up the acrylics and less toxic than lacquer sprays.

Don't feel bad, I made the same mistake. Luckily I did it in to bathtub and rinsed it all down the drain, no damage to model. It was only then I read the back of the bottle. D'oh!!

Sticking to Simple Green.

I usually just mix a custom color for every ship, starting with white, add some black or grey, maybe a little blue. Sometimes I have some left from the last ship and just add to it. I try to base it on screen shots, etc.

Try your local model railroading store. Mine carries a whole wall of detail parts like what you're describing. Better still, they don't look like ship parts, tank parts, etc. Easier to blend in.

Bondo spot putty, cheap, easy to find.

I just get the Weld-on #3 from my local plastic house. Yes it's toxic, but it works. I actually met the guy who formulated it. He's got cancer now from working around chemicals all his life.

So wear a respirator.

It probably is dry time that is leaving the ridges. I get those when I don't let the first color dry enough before masking and going on to next color.
Usually a thick enough coat of future cures it, with even a light sanding with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

That's what I usually do. Future before and after decals will seal everything. Then nice, light mistings of Dullcote.

Visit a local cabinet shop. They can make you one or they may even have some left over raised panel doors you can use. As a contractor I always have leftover, pre-finished cab doors left and have a nice stash of them. The longer ones are great for a line of ships.

Yep, Tamiya tape. Tried to find others as good but no luck.

Try acetone.

The band saw is the way to go. Tighter curves can be achieved with relief cuts, getting close to your line and finishing up with files or drum sanders. It won't burn the plastic and will give you a nice cut. Scroll saw is like a jig saw, bouncing up and down. Hard to get a nice cut line. A nice Delt...

I always used Weld-on #3 in a needle bottle. It also glue styrene bits to the plexi. It may be hard to find though.

I've always used WD-40. Most people have it in their home already. Try soaking the outer "paper" part for a while, then try to peel it off. After that, spray more on and rub residue with an old cloth rag. Repeat as needed. Wash off WD with dish soap.

I had the same problem with the last tube I bought. I hope it's not a trend.

Strikehawk what area do you live in? Next time down be sure to pop into The Whistle Stop railroad store in Pasadena. Loads of Plastruct, Evergreen, etc plus the giant wall of parts.

There's a pattern in my driveway I'd love to make into a large dropship.
There's also cool patterns to be had in wood grain(birch) and clouds(just sketch them quickly).

Thanks for the tip. There are no stores selling Evergreen where I am, unless I drive an hour away and then its luck of the draw. But there is a plastic shop just in town that sells good sized scrap pieces for cents on the foot! :D That's how I get my styrene, the old remnants bin at the local plast...

Great job so far. That scale will do the ship justice for sure.

Hi USSARCADIA, Can you wipe off dried Tamiya primer with 99% isopropyl alcohol? The ability to fill seams without sanding is one of the main reasons to use Mr. Surfacer. Thanks, Mike Sorry, couldn't tell you. I've never tried as I don't use it for seams. I mainly use it because it goes on smooth an...

I've switched to Tamiya as I can't find the Gunze stuff anywhere close anymore. It works fine.

Have you strained it? A friend of mine was having a similar problem running Createx fabric paints, if he could even get it to spray at all. After poking around this site: http://www.howtoairbrush.com/ I learned you have to strain it. I cut up some paint strainer mesh for him, put it over the bottle ...

Very nice! Looking forward to more pics.

Also try your local model railroad store for less recognizable parts. Our local shop, The Whistle Stop in Pasadena, CA has a wall-o-parts that would make you drool.

I would go with the matte spray suggestion if you're going for the "dirty" look. You just have to clean up any mistakes quickly though. You can also drybrush some on and use pastels too.

I would suggest trying to heat it with a hair dryer first, that may be enough heat. I used this method with Evergreen styrene rod with success. If heat alone doesn't work, you could use a razor saw to put a relief cut on the "inside" of the bend, heat and bend, then put a touch of glue at ...