Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Post removed due to being tired of this crap

Ken

Wow!!!

I'd try some lacquer thinner and see what happens

How long has it been since you stripped it? I'd let it sit in a warm area for a few days and see what happens, may take a bit for the surface to dry out and all of the solvents to de-gas properly. I've stripped vinyl kits with lacquer thinner and it won't leave the surface tack and will also dry it ...

If sheet acrylic is out of the range then you may want to reconsider the project, I don't know of any other materials that are humidity resistant and paintable and reasonably priced.

Is your materials budget $100/sign or $100/total?

Ken

What is the sheet material that the machine shop has? There's a foamed PVC that works well for sign making but I can't remember the trade name. How about marine plywood? Not as cheap as the regular grade stuff but far more durable, shouldn't have any trouble finding a source in FL. Or that plastic t...

What I've done before is to take a new knife blade and lightly trace a path around the area to be painted, you don't need to press hard, the weight of the knife will make a slightly raised line in the paint, when you paint use the brush combined with the surface tension of the paint to flow the pain...

Fine solder is perfect for detail like this where you want it to conform to the surface.

Radio Shack sells it in the stores, I have 3 rolls in various sizes starting at around .010"

Ken

I've noticed this with some of the prepainted models as well, my guess is that's it some kind of urethane or epoxy paint. I did one of those 1/4 scale engine models for someone last year and decided to strip the paint on the parts due to the poor quality. The paint on the metal parts didn't respond ...

Aluminum foil discs?
http://www.mcmaster.com/?error_redirect ... -foil-tape

Shim stock discs?
http://www.mcmaster.com/?error_redirect ... ck/=mq3crf

I asssume I could inspect the faceplate after painting the suit, sand, mask and paint the gold. The Krylon gold may be thick enough to hide any imperfections, hard to say without seeing the visor area after you've painted the suit. I remember seeing a model somewhere where the visor was painted as ...

Thanks. All good points. On the visors, the area around the faceplate is usually raised, making it easier to paint the faceplate first, mask, then paint the rest of the suit. But then I'm probably having to mask off the suit to spray the faceplate anyway cause gold plating overspray probably wouldn...

1 - not sure but I think it won't look right, may not level out correctly plus I think plated finishes are normally very thick and adding another coat to that will only muddy the details even more. 2 - I'd make sure the base material is as smooth as possible, plastic would probably be ok but resin m...

Agree with option C, if you make the bulkheads and skin rigid enough you can probably leave the center structural member removable so you add in a cockpit and gear bay later.

Ken

I use Loctite/Duro in the small bottles that you can get at most stores, I've tried the Gorilla brand in the big bottle and it seemed to work well too and the bottle didn't clog as quickly as other brands. I've never had a local source for Zap-A-Gap or any of the brands you find in hobby shops so I ...

Wet or dry sandpaper is more expensive than the plain ol' hardware store garnet paper used in woodworking, just a fact of life on that one. And once you get past 2000 grit or so the price starts going up even more. Unless you're sanding a lot or sanding on very hard surfaces a sheet will last a long...

thanks for the encouragement. sorry, travelling at the moment so can't take pics. but if you imagine holding a gun, the 3 fingers below the index finger are gone/lost, from and including the knuckles. i guess my hesitation stems from the fingers being dainty. Hmmm, looking at the pictures I'm think...

A small piece broke off an old butter dish. It was my wife's grandmothers. The area is about 1/2 inch and it broke into about 6 pieces. I'll look into the gel super glue. Do you think epoxy will be good for this? As Kylwell and Focker mentioned epoxy works well except for the fact that it needs to ...

What exactly is broken? I've had very good success in repairing ceramic figurines (mom collects bird ones) with gel super glue, the regular viscosity is too thin and wicks into the ceramic, gel stays on the surface long enough to bond the parts. If the break is clean (and most are in ceramics) then ...

My guesses are either an incomplete mix or maybe your kit was poured using the leftovers from other batches and they gradually filled the mold over a few days or hours? Only thing I can think of to try and fix it is to get some thin CA and glue all of the layers together and then putty the surface a...

To add to Joseph's post if you're out in the garage you may have a problem with airbrushing as well if the conditions are very humid as well. I know a couple of guys online that work in their garage and they live in dry climates, humidity isn't a problem for them but the hot and dry temperatures wil...

I'm not familiar with the Aves line but epoxy putties in general can be hit-or-miss when to comes to bonding, the rougher the mating surfaces and the thinner the consistency of the putty the better, you want the putty to flow into every crevice and scratch that there is, that's one advantage of liqu...

Gloss paints will typically pull away from sharp corners if the gloss coats are applied too heavily. For these areas you have a couple of choices: 1 - lightly (and I do mean it) sand these areas with 1000-1500 grit, really just enough to scuff up the primer/basecoat enough so the gloss will stick. S...

Solder would be my first choice since that's what it does best, attach metals together. I thought about brazing or a silver solder but the melting points of both are so high you'd probably warp the rods first. You're on the right track with filing the joint to get it to fit as tight as possible. Ken

Are you going to apply it via spraycan or airbrush? If the former then I say maybe over decals and leaning towards a probably not over acrylics. The spraycan version can be hard to control and its way too easy to put too much on too fast. If using the bottled version and applying it via airbrush the...

Automotive paints and clear coats would be my first choice.

If you don't want to start out getting paints from scratch I'd find out what paints you have on hand are compatible with automotive grade clearcoats and use that combination.

Ken

Make sure you get true parchment paper and not the new non-stick variety that contains silicones, the latter will cause serious problems with paints.

Ken

I consult the source of all things industrial, the McMaster-Carr catalog


http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=g4yhnh

Multiple material choices to boot!

Ken

You can resand the area and reprime, that's one of the reasons you prime afterwards to see if there are any mistakes or areas that need some more attention. A word of caution - you didn't say how you applied the primer, if you primed the entire model via spray can you want to be careful and not appl...

I'll be the voice of dissent here and advise against Future as the clear coat for a model car. To me Future over flat paint, even in multiple coats, looks like Future over paint, not that great gloss with depth like you get on automotive paints. I know thew new paints are base+clear but the final re...

So, how does that pattern get replicated for a model? That is the question. Do you want to use the rippled clear plastic and put the tint on it or make your own? The Dullcote/stippled clear coat idea below sounds like it should work, I'm trying to think of anything else that can be applied that dri...