Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

If you're using static sensitive components such as CMOS ICs, yes.

The main purpose of the Soldering iron is to heat up both the copper pad and also the leg of the component while also, heating the solder. Once everything is ready, the solder will melt/flow into the two surfaces and form a joint. Well, that's how I think I did it and these must be done in less than...

Tell you what. If you don't mind the shipping/postage, send it to me and I do it up for you.

Yep, like he said. Personally, I prefer to use 20W since I found myself dealing with a lot of SMDs this year. But for battery contacts and all, its @#% to use. Think of soldering as transferring heat from the iron to the target and once that is done, the iron becomes 'cold'. So, the higher the watta...

You might want to go over the resistor values again.

jkiker, IMHO, 12volts is a bit too high for a few LEDs. You might want to try something lesser, like 6 volts. Also, the weight of the model would be quite heavy due to the amount of batteries needed to make up the 12volts. Also, you mentioned a combination of 12volt wall wort and a 9volt battery. Ar...

Well, I am not too sure but once he gave the clues of Chaney Electronics, this was the only kit that more or less matches his posting. Yes, if this was to be put into the 1/350 PL Enterprise, it would be too long. (I think the board is about 5~6 inches while the targeted Landing Bay area is about ha...

Can you post a link to this kit or even a big clear of it or even the circuit diagram? Then maybe we can help but here is a theory: You got the kit #CL4431 There are two ICs which I assume is the 555 and 4017 pair, which is very common for sequential LED kits and designs. But the funny thing is, the...

On a perfectly designed circuit, a resistor would not get hot... much. But just to be safe, isolate the FO away from the PCB since all FOs now are plastic and prone to heat. I have never tried using heatshrink sleeves on a FO yet but I know that using soldering irons or heatguns or naked flames are ...

Just in case you're wondering, naoto's 'cheater' is a dummy battery which you can get in most shops, I think. But the guys are right. You do not need a 9volt. In layman's terms, a lot of 'extra' unwanted voltages would be dissipated by that current limiting resistor to the LEDs. For me, 4.5v to 6v a...

Personally, for me, there are a few types: 1. Prototype boards This is the starting board for me. Any circuits designed on paper, gets tested on this board. Its great for that on-the-fly and last minute changes but you ave to be very careful about shorting and dropping them. 2. Breadboard. There are...

If you're looking for windows lights and all, Madman is the way to go. I was building separate module for each part of the 1/350 here: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=98477&highlight= But now I got side tracked with the Cylon raider here, and we're busy keeping up with orders...

That's great. A bit nitpicking here but I prefer all exposed wires to be covered or have heat-shrink sleeves.

Kills the Murphy's Law gremlins when you seal up the model.

The transparent 'bulb' of the LEDs are actually resin so, normal glue just does not work. What I do nowadays is to either epoxy it, hot melt it, fit it onto a plastic tab, design the circuit board to fill the space or well, just use a LED holder... But I don't use superglue no more since the stuff I...

OK, here is a very painful and personal question you must ask yourself: Is it better to rip out the bridge and redo the circuit NOW, or suffer with two different power supplies (plus other hidden problems) in the long term? I had to ask this to myself everytime I do one. And until now, I do not have...

Good Lord! You're right! can't mix LEDs of different colours. In fact, sometimes, you can't even put the same colours in series eitehr as different batches have slight variations. But in modeling, just don't mix them. I had my first catastrophe when I mixed red and green on the 90's for a TOS Enterp...

I wonder if, instead of connecting directly to the wall adaptor directly, if it connects to a PWM output might save on the power? Just thinking out loud as I have not tried PWM yet... Reason I am thinking about this is because I have to assume (*again*) that the model is all sealed up. But as far as...

Yep. Agree with Paulbo. But I need to ask you some questions. 1. Wall adaptors have a range from 500mA to about 1A. So, assuming your circuits are correct, it would not heat up. 2. Also, I have to assume you are using White LEDs which runs on 3 volts each and you therefore put them in series with a ...

Have you gotten in touch with Trekmodeler?

The burn-in test proves that the circuit, esp the Darlignton pair is OK which means, it should be alright to out into the model. But just be careful with it, OK? Check and re-check every step to make sure the circuit is A-OK. Its PITA but its the surest way to defeat Murphy's Law which is the most p...

Sorry for the delay. 555 and 4017, eh? Anyway, I know that the 555 has a reverse polarity of about 5 volts but I am not sure about the 4017. I am not so sure about your shops over there, but since (I have to assume) these chips would be using their respective IC sockets, just to be on the safe side,...

Well, is there a circuit diagram or any (clear, enlarged) pictures you can show us? I am curious how it can survive a reverse polarity.

Yep. Something like that. The circuit worked as it was intended but we did not 'time' it nor do a comparison with just one LED. Once it sort of worked, I gave it to my friend for his Cosplay project.

Ah, you're using it for PWM. Although the 2N2222 has a 300MHz switching frequency, I have never used this method before. I did try PWM last year, and it was using a PIC12F629 with an IRF640 MOSFET. However, I did not note the difference in the duty cycle though. I don't have the MOSFET with me now. ...

Honestly, I don't have the circuit but its being used for my NCC-1701 board, which I am trying to get all the wires done up asap: http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=98739 The closest I can point you to is here: http://www.phase4c2.com/pic101/interface.htm where it is on the third ci...

I don't have experience with MOSFETs yet but it looks correct to me. When it comes to such arrangement, I always prefer the 2N2222 personally (because I have a lot in my spares). Anyway, have you used a single LED & resistor to test the output of the PIC? If it lights up as your requirement, the...

The 300 Ohm resistor exists in the E24 range (5% tolerance). The resistors you buy are usually 1/4 watt unless you specify otherwise.

OK. this guy stays about two hour's drive from where I live. And the language is actually Bahasa Malaysia. What the video shows is basically the 555 and 4017 with adjustable speed. The last 10 seconds is what you need and its actually what has been discussed by tetsujin and Zog earlier. Note the pol...

Hi, The chip (the ones I personally use and its the only one available where I am) is called the PIC16F628A is similar in size to that of the 4017 IC but slightly longer. This chip needs to be programmed first. You will need a programmer and the know-how to go to do this, which, to a beginner is exp...

Well, I am not sure but if you have seen a normal chaser circuit (555 & 4017) which gives the single LED output, my theory is to use the same circuit again, but with PNP transistors. I have not tried this but the theory is, when there is no voltage, the LED would light up. If again, you are want...