Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hey, Wow! I had the same series but its more on the guy with the drums. However, mine was done halfway because the model was very prone to scratches on the corners. But yea, using red and orange 0805 SMDs for the lights, 0603 or 0805 for the side indicators plys 3mm warm white LEDs for the front hea...

Ditto.
But I like to put them on the Positive side.

Not sure about this but on the second picture, the 'LEDs' looks more like Electroluminescents, which runs on AC and not DC There are other sound to light circuits, such as the infamous LM3916 UV meter IC. I ma sure there is even a kit for that as well. Here is a quick Google Search: https://www.goog...

Sorry. Double post, thanks to unstable Internet

I was presented with a Pro-Shop X-Wing a year ago to repair on its electronics but the Client had a change of mind due to my overworked schedule. Since I had not seen the bulbs personally, I just hope the following observations might help you: 1. Bulbs have a 270° spread of light compared to a LED's...

I agree with Joseph Osborn on this. Do look at Starship Modeler's Store section on lighting and you'll see a few lighting solutions for your Viper. I have encountered a few who used something similar to those pucks and in the end, the result was not as convincing. The Moebius TOS Viper is a wonderfu...

Yeah, they're been around for some time. AFAIK, here are the possible sizes for those round domes 1. 1.8/2mm 2. 3mm 3. 5mm 4. 8mm 5. 10mm However, where brightness is concerned, I think its the same brightness as the 5mm version but in some cases, the 3mm LEDs are brighter. I might be biased because...

There is a very strong possibility that there is a short.

Please upload a nice clear macro photo for us to have a look.

+1 for Madman The current limiting resistors are there to protect the LEDs from burning out. Each colour of LED have their own voltage and current rating, here are some general ones: RED = 1.8v, 20mA GREEN = 2.2v, 20mA White = 3.2~3.5v, 25mA Blue = 3.2~3.5v, 25mA You can put almost three White LEDs ...

The 555 generates the pulse required by the 4017 to 'spin' the LEDs. If you have a meter, you can test the voltage at Pin 3 of the 555 timer. If the needle fluctuates, the 555 is working. The 4017 is a CMOS IC, which has a wide operating voltage but is very sensitive to electrostatic which actually ...

Ha ha ha! Thanks for sharing with us on this, Madman! That was something I learnt last year and so, my latest product would be just that. But then, one thing led to another and I relented and used a jumper system since the models I had in mind was big enough for the design. In the end, it was a more...

Heh. Happened to me last year when I was designing for the Moebius Pegasus. All of a sudden, the LED design I based on went the way of the Dodo. Lastly, just to share my experience with you, I did a lot of customisation for one-off Clients and they do not want the 'extra' features much as these will...

You can use a simple 555 timer for that fast blink or if you want it to be more 'random' microcontroller PWM programming is the solution.

Yep, you really need microprocessors to do the double lighting sequence but if you're good at electronics, even the 555 & 4017 pair will get you going but its very difficult to get the timing just right. Once you take into consideration of the third flashing sequence, old school electronics just...

Wow! That is amazing!

Cool! Glad it worked out for you can't wait to see your video!

OK, this is what I did.

1. I used the text, "DC step down power supply +voltmeter"
2. Select Sort by, "Lowest first" *ahem*

You'll find a few from there.

Thanks RossW for the LM2572 tip. Just some time ago, I got these nice little PSU step-down modules from eBay. They're running on LM2596. Being a sucker for LEDs, I chose the one with a small Voltmeter attached. It costs quite a bit from where I am but I just love the concept: You feed it any voltage...

I second that. And also, if you apply 9 volts or 12 volts to the 7805, the additional voltage is going to make it get hot.

If the KBoP are all LEDs, you might want to consider using current limiting resistors.

For me, a chaser kit is the one where the LED light up (and foes off) one by one in a sequence. Usually where I live, these chaser kits have 10 LEDs in there because of the most often used 555 timer and 4017 IC. These pair were very popular during the 90's in which I suspect, most of the Star Trek T...

Yes that is one solution until I discovered the third flashing sequence. I took a shortcut and used a microprocessor instead since I have already the timing for 1701A (Motion Picture & STVI), and NX-01. So the chip has Jus enough memory left for the timing of the JJPrise.

I did that effect on my board 2 years ago. But because I noticed there is another extra light sequence at the Warp pylons (just above the shuttle bay) I realised the Customer might not know how to solder so I scrapped the idea of selling my board.[/b]

Can you show us your circuit diagram?

Arduinos and especially any microcontrollers are a good way to achieve you goal. Personally, for me, I am using PICs. There are others such as from Atmel and so on. Call me stubborn but I have used PICs on so many projects, and also because of the shops that sells them, I am not willing to switch di...

Assuming the following specs: Blue: 3.65v, 20mA Red : 1/85v, 20mA And with your 9v power supply, the resistor value for each type of LEDs are: Blue: 270 Ohms, 1/4 watt Red : 390 Ohms, 1/4 watt You can get more assistance from this Popular resistor calculator website which also helps you in wiring up...

To be honest, the 0603 LEDs are the limit I would go to as far as using them. it was really tough to solder them in the beginning but after some practice with a pair to tweezers and a sharp iron tip, I got the Cylon Raider roving eyes done. (If you want to see this, you would need to go to my Websit...

If you have the correct White plastic of the 1/350 Polar Lights Enterprise, it is possible to do light it from inside, which is now called The Raytheon Effect. The latest Model that includes Aztec decals was claimed to give off yellowish light when lit from inside. So, I cannot say how the effect wo...

ALCLSC89, I actually have what you need. However, it is not a kit but a complete 'Plug & Play' system. It comes with a set of Red/Green/White LEDs and by moving the jumpers about, you will have different blinking rates for the Red/Green Navigation and White strobes for the following ships: 1. En...

Well, this is a nice COB chip. The black goop houses a small circuit or microprocessor drawing enough power only to light the White LED. Look at the second solder pads next to L1. Could be for another LED but I am not so sure, yet its a high possibility. But you must make sure the LED is correctly s...