Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Kenny wrote:

...taking the top layers of skin on my hands too. But "mistake" it was not.

Well... that was a scary take on "mistake"....

Figured to use soft scrub to see if it will take off the residue on the kit tonight.

I haven't been building anything since I lost my hobby room last fall. Well, where I live now... I made a small workbench in the basement. Ok... Well, I just got this resin kit and placed it in a metal foil pan and coved it with purple power to degrease it.... Well.... that stuff ate right thru the ...

I guess to answer your question... yes it can be done... but due to the size... how is it put together?

If it is two halves... they you could run some FO to were the eyes would be and have them go to a led and battery under the base.

I don't have one, but I would suggest that..... First.... read the instructions and if there is some sort of maintenance to this (oiling the unit) follow those instructions. See if there is a problem with running it for long periods ( half hour or so)... it may get hot. Also... see if the company yo...

tamasei wrote: Also if the surface of the model has a lot of very narrow and deep trenches, how do you cleanly cut off the extra fiber sticking out? Carefully, using either a brand new razer blade or a brand new #11 exacto blade... being carefull not to nice or dig into the surface of your model. OR...

Sounds like a bad mix of the two parts... but never used the paste

Me... I have sticked with their thinner. No problems that way.

Ok... now that I am home... Liquitex Modeling Paste works wonders on small holes. Wipe off excess with a damp paper towel.

What USS Atlantis stated.

The paint and weather/humidity can mess things up if the paint is not dry and that includes the primer.

Let it sit and work on another model (see, now you know the reason why people have more than one kit in the works.).

Bondo spot putty.

I also used something from Liquitex that you spread on also. Forget what it is called. Use water to wipe down the excess and then lightly sand smooth.

Instead of water... I use future and once it dries... I just brush the salt off.

No... I use that on plastic. Love it.

Superglue or Epoxie is what I use for resin.

On all my resin... I use 2 part epoxy... never had an issue.

I have the tub size and they are over 4/5+ years and never had an issue of it not mixing or drying.

I have come across some crusty parts in the tub... which I throw out... but never had any issues.

Never had that issue... as long as I primed first.

lensman1 wrote:

sorry about the repeats, new to this forum and forum posting in general

No biggy.... was fun to read it over and over again tho!

Repeat ourselves much?

This one has a vid with it......

http://gamerabaenre.com/?page_id=1347

How heavy of a coat did you spray of color on the primer?

I think it is just a store brand of primer (Brite Touch). I have no issues with it and the price is right.

For primers... I use ( on both styrene and resin ) Brite Touch from a store chain in my area called Bennys and Dupli-Color Filler Primer. What I do is wash the kit with a degreaser and let it dry overnight. Then I spray a light coat on the kit (to me this gives something for the next coat of primer ...

What Ken said.

I have been happy with Iwata AB (CR) and as for Krylon Fusion Primer... it should work... but I use automotive primer myself.

1/6 scale on the figures and your typical 18" Enterprise for instance.

So... of your list..... which two would you recommend for someone doing starship and or figures?

I think that there is a pearlscent color blue out there already?

I believe that I have seen this color in shows.

I know that 91% is the alcohol... what I was saying is that maybe too much alcohol in the paint is causing the issue. Alcohol speeds up the drying time... so I'm guessing that the purer the alcohol... the faster it maybe causing the paint to dry.

I was under the understanding that you would shoot are high psi for the coverage... but I am thinking that the 91% is causing the paint to dry too fast.

I've finally gotten around to painting the 22" E and because of the size.... I went for my Wren B than my Iwata CR for coverage. The paint is Gunze Sangyo thinned with 91% alcohol with the compressor set at 20 psi. I was spraying at around 4 - 6" away. But the finish spray is looking like ...

I think that you would be better off using the Tamiya Thinner... but as I said not so much. Like it has been said before.... thin it to the consistance of skim/watered milk. Me... I would not go with the water as a thinner.... go for the Tamiya or just reduce the amount of alcohol that you used. An ...