Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Well, I'm sold. I've always modeled on the principal of "making the inexpensive build LOOK expensive", i.e rattlecan instead of airbrush, etc, but I finally broke down and bought some Aves (It's not that expensive, just never bothered). Wow. I've been working on a few prototype Trek kitba...

Covering epoxie over the magnets won't interfer with their ability to work? No. All you need is a thin skin a millimeter or two thick. Here's an illustration to give you an idea of how strong these things are: If you swallowed two of them a few minutes apart, thus allowing one to enter your duodenu...

You might also check for some jewelers' punches on ebay. They're just as good and oftentimes a set is much cheaper than the one sold in the hobby catalogs. I got mine for less than $20.

Kenny

I have an Olfa plastic cutter. There's two similar, same blade type, on these pages: http://www.olfaproducts.com/SPD/olfa-pc-l-olfa-hd-plastic-laminate-cutter--80001747-1274202416.jsp http://www.olfaproducts.com/SPD/olfa-p-800-olfa-hd-plastic-laminate-cutter--C030000-1152727601.jsp Crap! Forgot abo...

Get to the Choppa! er..Chopper II It's great. If you've not cutting very small pieces and the sheet's not that thick, a sharp pair of sewing scissors works great. With little pieces, though, the scissors will curl them. I use draftsman's templates and an X-Acto for a lot of stuff. I basically have o...

Loved it karim! Bring it to WF!

Kenny

I like to Future my metallizing paints before decaling. It's self-leveling and seems to preserve the sheen well.

Kenny

eeun wrote:First post, and he's got a link to Cricut accessories in his tagline? I suspect he's using it for spam.

I think you're right. Check the profile.


Kenny

Been there...I tried frisket years ago after seeing the "pros" use it and was just as frustrated. Question: What "tack" did you guys use? There are low, medium and high tack for different applications. The low tack stuff - at least to me - has been as good to painted surfaces as...

I had the EXACT same problem with Micro Mask. I did two things: 1.) Use Tamiya tape! I think using some of Terry or Robb's sold me on it. Buy three or four different widths. They'll last as long or longer than that bottle of Micro mask, and are less expensive. They take curves better and are easier ...

Aaaaargh! Double post strikes again.

My guess would be it won't scribe well nor hold up to more aggressive paints. Classically gesso is chalk or gypsum (sometimes marble) in a animal glue binder. Modern acrylic gesso isn't really gesso but calcium carbonate in an acrylic binder (along with other stuff). While it's great for prepping c...

It occurred to me as I was priming a wooden display base with some Artists' Gesso that the stuff fills remarkably well, being really thick artists acrylic paints. I wet sanded it a bit and the stuff was just as water resistant as any other acrylics. It filled the grain in the $1.00 pine base ridicul...

Reading up on laying decals down I came across a method where guys are watering down Future, perhaps 1:1 ratio, then brushing that on the model where the decal would go. Once the decal is ready it is placed onto the wet Future. When that dries then more Future is AB on top. Any body try this method...

That's a great idea. Realized I've been doing it myself with marbles, fingertips, etc all these years. I'll have to whip one of those up.

Kenny

naoto wrote:Okay, I put a saucepan with water on the stove, put the spraycan in it and turned on the flame... now what?
Hrm... I'm sort'a in a hurry so I'll put it on High for now...
...
waitiminit... If I use one of those turkey deep-fryer thingies... that'll get 'er done in no time flat!

BRILLIANT!

Kenny

With the warm water bath and frequent switching of nozzles I was able to get enough out of it for my small project. I'm giving up the idea of using it for the bigger one I had in mind. Thanks everybody. Ohh okay. I was going to second the decanting idea. If that fails, leave the aerosol can in a ho...

It happens. I'm sure the chemists here could tell us the how & why if needed. I usually strip chrome off anyways. Seconded. Some if them have a binder (closest thing I know to call it) under the chrome that almost has a gray-brown or beige color to it. On the rare occasion I have something pre-...

Would any of you be interested in seeing the concept art, props, costumes, sets, and other goodies related to the project? Silly question. :P Let's see it! It'll be nice to have such a unique project around here. -Rog Bah! Models are silly. We're more into quilting and macromay. But if you *must*, ...

Here's four thoughts: 1.) Builders surplus shops. I have bought a few odds and ends at one where I live. They oftentimes have pink or blue styro too. Perhaps yours will too in the tickness you need. 2.) Can you just laminate the stuff to get the thickness you need? I can understand where a long, lat...

Does baby powder brushed in the mold help at all for bubbles? Or, is that just what you pro casters use as a release sometimes?

Kenny

Kylwell wrote:Make a radiusing tool. Some hard steel, filed to the curve you want with enough length on the arms to give you a consistent fit and just scrape the styrene down to fit.

+1

Kenny

So last Sunday morning at 0500 on the way home from the office (yes, 0500), I stumble upon two scratchbuilding goldmines on the side of the road. First was a six-inch thick board of white styrofoam. Of course, I dutifully turned the car around and rescued it from the ditch. Then, 15 minutes later, I...

What are these "mistakes" you speak of? I am not familiar with this concept. However, once I intentionally stripped the paint from a failed build with oven cleaner, taking the top layers of skin on my hands too. But "mistake" it was not.

Kenny

Hi, thought I'd add my two cents. Same thing happened to me, tonight, after a wash with some Simple Green. It was a VA 22nd century Romulan BoP, and after washing it there was an oily residue on the surface of the yellow resin, but not the clear. I washed it again, thinking I just didn't get everyt...

I would like to add:

Riffler files

Ultra fine diamond files

Ultra fine diamond riffler files

Kenny

Badger makes some good acrylic clear coats in both flat, semi- and gloss lusters. I used them before going to the JW Etc's we have here in the states. Also, you may try Liquitex, Golden or Winsor & Newton. All of them make acrylic airbrush mediums, which are just the clear parts of acrylic paint...

I have the Chopper II, which is the same idea as the first one. It works great for slow, accurate cuts when you want/have time to line up many repetitive cuts. The bottom one looks like a pair of sheers and is for more rapid cutting. You get speed, but at the expense of accuracy and crushing as the ...

Welcome to the forums!

I have the issue at home, along with its templates. I'm at work right now. I get off at 0500 EST and won't have a chance to peruse the stacks until tomorrow afternoon/evening. But, I do have it. I'll see if I can scan them in.

PM me your email address.

Kenny

I'm no physician. This is purely anecdotal. I, personally have only had one problem shooting anything from an airbrush in my life. I was shooting Future into my booth, and forgot to turn the fan on. For whatever reason, I inhaled a big lungful. My lungs "itched" for a few days, then I got...