Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Dear kev, Acrylic rod is quite strong. I used 1/4" inch rod to support a helicopter in my Apollo recovery diorama. It is easy to bend the rod once heated in the oven for a few minutes. I bend the rod over a piece of thin plastic sheet I had cut out with the aid of a French curve. the advice in...

Thanks guys for all the input. Since I really like the look, I'll think I'll try one with the 3/8 acrylic rod and see what happens. You need a "pulley-like" object (a "wheel" with a semicircular groove cut into it—this groove has to have the same internal diameter as the external...

Here is a question. Is there anything that would serve as a resist for the expandable foam? Certainly when casting, there are substances that are used to make it so that the filler does not adhere to the mold. If you have a spherical mold properly treated, I wounder if that might work. IIRC from Ma...

Hi all, A few FSM issues ago there was a nice article on building an X-15. Also included in the article was a few paragraphs on building a base. He used a clear acrylic rod that he must have heated and bent into a sort of "U" shape and inserted one end into the model and the other into the...

You could also pick up an Olfa circle cutter. Just substitute a pin or the like for the blade - http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/ ... ctID=25204

Another stripper that hasn't been mentioned in a while is Strip-A-Kit. SAK is safer than oven cleaner, low odor and 100% biodegradeable - http://www.hangar3.com/sak.htm

Even our own 1-0 gave it kudos in his online build article - Day 17 -
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/olb/jl_fss.cfm#day17

I use Rhino glue when gluing large pinned parts together. I don't think it's good for tiny or fragile parts. The instructions say you should moisten one part apply the glue to the other and then clamp them together. The RG foams a little bit as it cures, so if you use too much it most likely will c...

I use Rhino glue when gluing large pinned parts together. I don't think it's good for tiny or fragile parts. The instructions say you should moisten one part apply the glue to the other and then clamp them together. The RG foams a little bit as it cures, so if you use too much it most likely will co...

Fixing yellowing decals was brought up before and the decals in a clear, plastic bag was suggested. Someone did this and the decals stuck themselves to the inside of the bag because of humidity. so be careful. In a recent FSM (the Decal issue) there was an article about this. What the author did wa...

Fixing yellowing decals was brought up before and the decals in a clear, plastic bag was suggested. Someone did this and the decals stuck themselves to the inside of the bag because of humidity. so be careful. In a recent FSM (the Decal issue) there was an article about this. What the author did was...

While it may be a slightly expensive way to see the technique - Floyd Werner has an excellent Mr. surfacer demo filling sink holes in his Master Class Videos DVD = http://www.masterclassmodels.com/disk1.html
Yeah he's building a WW2 plane, but the techniques are universal.

If anyone cares and FWIW, I just started using the 500 and 1000 and found (by accident) that it cleans up very nicely with acetone.

I have been meaning to pick up some Aves at some point in the near future. But alas, which to get? The paste or the sculp? I'll be using it primarially for filling seams and polishing out imperfections. I did try to get the good stuff at the hobby store. It's superfine white. I'd pick up the Apoxie...

I use GG when I pin and glue large pieces of resin. Typically I apply just a little bit on one side of the part and wet the opposite side. I also use it to secure the pin into the resin. As Ter-or says it will "foam" a little bit as it cures which can be cleaned away before drying. It also...

I guess I'm weird then, because I actually apply the lighter colors first when weathering and then work my way back to dark. I am fairly pleased with the results. Is applying dark first better? I always thought the "rule" was for drybrushing go dark to light. But for washes go light to da...

One thing to remember is that for the most part trees are essentially gray. Only the newer younger branches have any color. I did a dead tree from scratch for one of my dino models if you'd like a look see -
http://pic9.picturetrail.com/VOL301/202 ... 610855.jpg

FWIW, I use Porc-A-Filler. It's a porcelain chip filler, for sinks, tubs etc... You can find it in either Home Depot or Lowes (and probably any other good hardware store. It can be put it on with a paint brush and it goes on pretty thick. Clean -up is with fingernail polish remover. Once dry you can...

You can also use talcum powder to make sure the Aves doesn't stick to anything else.

I would like to see the article, if anyone can get the issue and or scan of the artical for reference I'd like to put it on file. On a side note I have the second to last copy of the IPMs journal where a fellow setup a vacuum pump using th ~$10.00 venturi effect device harbor freight has, seems to ...

There was just an article about out to do it cheaply in either the last issue of AFM or Kitbuilders (I don't have either in front of me right now).

Hi,

I'm finishing up a rocket and I've primed the piece. The plan calls for Bare Metal Foil (BMF) and decals. Could I BMF the whole thing and then put the decals on over it, or should I leave the area to be decaled just primed. TIA

Possibly. The issue would be the urathane foam gluing itself to the baloon rubber. Maybe build it in stages? Spritz a little wad of foam onto a sheet of paper, then after it's cured, tear the paper off and spritz a little more on the flat side. Lather, rinse, repeat, turning the wad of foam as you ...

For larger holes, joints etc to fill, I'll ditto the vote for Aves. But if I have just a thin line or something very small I use Porc-A-Fix. This stuff is made to repair chips in porcelain tubs, sinks. etc... Its very fine grained and goes on with a paint brush. It sands very smooth as well. You can...

Link and Pin Hobbies also had Palm Trees available.

I just noticed that on the Testors Workshop page there is a 2 part video demo on glues for anyone interested - http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop.htm Scroll down to demos 27 & 28 (or was it 28-29?) anyway, it's pretty good. Sure the're using Testors brand but you can always use the techniques...

I'd have to agree with Marcal - the idea of that stuff is to melt to two parts together. If you have extra glue/melted plastic squeezing out, I think you're using too much. I have a little scrap of glass and I squeeze a tiny bit of the jelly glue onto it. Then take the point of a toothpick, dip it i...

Here's a few nice little tutorials about weathering (washes/drybrushing)- http://italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Panelines/panels.htm http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/quickeasyweathering.pdf http://www.finescale.com/...

Pretty much the same technique except I cut the fiber optic at the very end after all the painting/weathering's done. I use the small curved bladed scissors that you can find in the beauty section of a drugstore.

Here's a snow tut -
http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/ot ... ngahn.html

Ok, this question was asked in another thread and I thought it should be in its own. Who collects stuff for scratchbuilding? What are you hoarding? Or do you pick up stuff as the need arises? Lets hear. I used to be one that gather parts as I needed them. Often a PITA as I could never find exactly w...