Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Time varies depending on how warm/humid your place is etc. One thing I do is take a cleaned deli container and put it over the Futured part. I have an old house and dust seems to show up everywhere. The container will keep the dust from landing on the part while drying.

Future is a watery clear acrylic. You can find it in the cleaning aisle of a supermarket. I think it's called Pledge Floor Care now. It's had a bunch of names over the years. Model era still call it Future. It's the same stuff tho. All you need to is pour the Future into a cup and take your canopy i...

Hey red_leader, sounds like a good project. I haven't done it myself, but something to try would be to *lightly* streak dark pastels in the direction of airflow. Remember scale, and a little will go a long way. HTH

Is that like an acrylic modeling paste or a gel medium? http://www.liquitex.com/modelingpaste/ I know a couple of people who say they like it but I've never seen them use it. Mike It very well might be close. In that video I mentioned earlier, the reviewer said it had porcelain dust in it. The VPP ...

Thanks guys for the advice and leads. I also found a vid from International scale Models on You Tube. In it the guy compared a number of puttys including VPP. The only difference between that review and the one Kylwell pointed out is that MM's review says it doesn't shrink and the guy from ISM says ...

Hi all, Has anyone had a chance to play with or uses Vallejo's Plastic Putty? I simply love the paints and I thought I would try the putty on my latest 1/72 build (yes I'm actually building something). I put it on/in the gap in the wing root and waited for it to dry. When I went to wet sand the extr...

Hey they really look great! But I'm with Ramsayman - I'm not into minis and would like to see some of em in 1:72 - or at least a 6"length IMHO

The glow is just more of the paint you used for the lava. Take a small flash light light and cast it upward to see where the light will fall and then just copy the area that was lit up with the correct color. BTW, remember that the closer the item on fire is to the point the lighter the color. That'...

Welcome Lord Darth B

Kylwell wrote:Mr. Hobby or Mr. Color? Or either... both... I just want my Mr. Surfacer!

Hmmm, must be a local issue. At my LHS (in NJ) they have all the Mr. Surfacer's.

Since I'm the resident village idiot, I have another question: What's the secret to drybrushing with acrylics? For whatever reason, they fail epically, compared to enamels. Suggestions, learned ones? Problem with dry brushing acrylics is that they dry too fast. Really only way to stop this is to ad...

Thanks guys. I know I could get down to the right answer here.

Just heard thru a friend that Brookhurst Hobbies is telling him that Mr. Surfacer 500 in the jar is being discontinued? Any body have news on that?

Couldn't you just buy small sized styrene tubes and rods and cut thin sections from them?

Great looking build!
Could certainly picture that in real space.

Aves .

You can give the paint area a little buff and then hit it with Mr. Surfacer. If the cracks are hairline try Mr. s 1000 if they are a llittle bigger you can use the thicker stuff. Make sure to let it dry thoroughly. For the putty , the only thing I use anymore is Aves (which isn't really putty). It c...

I would have to agree with Kylwell Take an image of your submarine and increase it the 1.5 X, You'll need a side view and a top view. if big take to a local Staples and let them print it out on a large sheet. Then take wood or foam and cut out the gross shapes. Then you can refine the shapes to the ...

Styrene to styrene? I use the Tamiya liquid glue. Hold or tape the two parts down then just touch the brush to the joint and let the capillary action do the work.

There's also stuff called Funky Film. Gives this effect - http://spacemodels.nuxit.net/lunokhod/Guenther/event0007.html http://spacemodels.nuxit.net/lunokhod/Guenther/Luno1.html If you have a party store near you they also sell a mylar type balloon with similar properties. It comes in a deep purple/...

Awesome Sulaco build! WOW

Man, I would really like to see that exhibit if it ever came over here.

Styrene - Ambroid or Tenax Resin - Super-glue - but get a good brand, not a nameless or "hobby-shop" branded - I stick with Loctite - they have everything from super-thin to black What he said. I've had superglue go bad from time to time. As was mentioned I too don't buy big bottles of it...

Nice job. I subscribed.

I never read the book, but it's a nice build!

I like to that you used captions to tell the story of the build and not have 50 links here that we have to back and forth on. That's my one pet peeve of this forum... Yeah I'm cranky today...

Hi,

Yep they are "grown" with a 3D printer -
http://www.printapart.com/technology/index.html

Jon Leslie, the paper model guy, has a nice recipe for modeling a lunar surface -

http://jleslie48.com/lunarsurveyor/how- ... nscape.pdf

HTH

It doesn't come in a frosted jar, but I use Strip-A-Kit
It doesn't stink, all biodegradable etc... Nice stuff to use. I've even used it to remove Alclad 2

GameraBaenre wrote:I did another update to the tutorials page adding in a masking tutorial and supplemental videos to existing tutorials. More information about the updates here: http://www.gamerabaenre.com/?p=141

Very cool as always!

There's a clear, thick epoxy resin that they put on bar tops. Once cured it shouldn't be marked by a hot mug.
Where I work, we used it for 3 of our kitchen tables.

Bookmarked. Excellent! Thanks!

I must say again that your seminars at the Nats were prolly the best I've ever seen.
I think other presenters should take your example and use film clips to actually show something in progress at a "How-To" seminar.

This modeler on Hyperscale used a homemade cradle type mount. Not a bad idea.

http://www.hyperscale.com/features/ac130u72kp_1.htm