Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

First you get a tiger, then you paint stripes on him. Then you go to the nearest emergency department where they'll prolly send to to the OR to get the multiple lacerations sewn up.

The one I just ordered was only 90 bucks, with the hose, plus free shipping. Dixie Art are the bomb to order from Too. I'm expecting a little delay since they're in New Orleans, but they only expect a 2 week delay for international orders. Got the siphon jar model, I've got a ton of jars already.

Thanks for the info bro, I just ordered an Eclipse from Dixie Art. With the hose. Don't know about Iwata, but Badger and Paasche have totally different connections, I figured for 10 bones I might as well get the hose.

I got one of these from Toy R Us, uh, I mean Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42307 Aside from the colour it looks pretty similar to the Micro Mark one. Has the mitre clamp, the little safety that holds the head up. Replacement blades are also availabl...

You can never go wrong buying tools. Sure you can buy kits and stick them together but with with tools you can make models. :D :wink: :P You aint lyin', I'm just about on a first name basis with the manager of Harbor Freight. Great deals on clamps right now, 90 degree corner clamps for 1.49, I got ...

I think I paid $14.99 for the re-issue at Toys-is-us so I'd say going to the trouble of trying to get the thing apart prolly aint worth it.

Just a thought: Paintball-high pressure, low volume.

Airbrush-low pressure, high volume

Don't think it'll work.

I'll have to pour some out and see if the bottle may have turned, otherwise, for the price, it aint a lot to replace. Maybe the Canadian formula for the stuff is different.

Okay, after my move I pulled my almost full bottle of Future out of a box, and it's the colour of urine. Granted I've not used it in 1 year or so, but it was in a sealed box, so not subjected to UV light. If the stuff does this in the bottle in a closed box, what happens on a model? I've heard of ye...

I noticed from a prior post you said you've been using the biggest, strongest clamp you have and then applying the Tenax, or Ambroid, they're the same. That won't work. The liquid cements sneak into the joint by capillary action. If the joint is too tight there's no room for the solvent to go. You'l...

Seems to me people paint vinyl figure kits all the time, I don't but lots do, there are a number of reviews of vinyl figures here. They may be helpful.

I fudged up some weathering with acrylics after a great basecoat, if you let the basecoat and Future really dry, like a copula days, and don't try to brute force the weahtering, as in be able to say, this looks like crap, at the time you can simply wipe the mess away with water, without harming anyt...

I lurv my Silentaire Scorpion 1. No tank, but not needed, I don't use it with a nailgun.. No pulsation, built in moisture trap, auto on and off.

I've used Badger and Paasche's and like then both. Only thing I'd say is: Dixie Art, whatever your choice. One I have my eye on is the Crescendo set, actually has useful stuff in the set. Like all the sizes of tips and needles. A braided hose is nice too. What you don't need is cobblers like an asso...

Interesting, I've got a 350 and and H, I've never had a problem getting fantastic results with the 350. Though I do use the hose that came with the Scorpion, not the tiny thing that came with the 350.

Looks like what I was thinking about, BTW they've got one on sale at Harbor Freight right now for 12.99.

The paper cutter sounds like a great idea for thin styrene. For thicker stock a rip fence (could simply be a straight edge clamped on the bed) on a small power saw would likely do the job.

No way, putty has no strength, it's a filler. Why not use Testors liquid, the stuff in the bottle? Apply like contact cement. Press the 2 parts together, it may only stick where it touches, but let it dry, then it'll be strong. Unless you want to use 2-part Bondo, that'll hold. That is 2-part Bondo ...

I only have the medium and fine nozzles, both have worked great thus far. My Paasche H has a heavy nozzle, but I've not tried it yet. BTW, what type of siphone bottle are you using? My 350 came with a crappy bottle with a plastic lid and plastic siphon tube that fit like crud. I found replacing the ...

The H-F and Marc's in my area have them on sale for 4.99 each, and it comes with a bottle, hose, and siphon cap. I believe the one you're referring to is the 350 clone, I got one a coupla days ago to spray metallics. I don't think H-F carries the double action anymore, they've not had them at the s...

Yes, the H-F 150 clone does feel nice. I have to admit though that it IS my first airbrush, and I've only used it once (I'm ashamed to say). Time is a valuable thing, and it is all I really want for Christmas. So, I guessed I missed the answer somewhere. Will the Badger 150 glass bottles and siphon...

Keep checking Harbor Freight, I got that exact same cutoff saw for 16 bucks a coupla months ago on sale too. And the regular price was 30 bucks. They have some great sales. Then again there's a store about 20 minutes down the road. So far from them I got a mini table saw (4" blade), 12" ta...

I bought my double-action HF airbrush on sale for $16.99. The single-action is around $9.99 I believe. Question: The glass jar that came with mine does not have a truly flat top surface, so it seals poorly against the lid, resulting in paint leaks if I turn the jar a certain angle. Can I buy replac...

If the model will be handled then a dull coat will go glossy in time. Why? You ask? Glad you did. Because all paints are actually gloss, dull and satin paints have flattening agents added to them, these agents make the paint softer, so handling will quickly wear the surface down to a gloss. Got this...

Kinda wondering too. I found Tamiya's flat base, added to Future, needed to be a LOT more flat base to Future than recommended.Something like 1:1 to get a satin finish. just keep using the 4:1 or 3:1 Future to Tamiya flatbase ratio, but don't spray it like future without flatbase... just use short ...

VERY carefully applied epoxy should work, hold anything pretty much forever, and doesn't fog. My personlly feeling on CA: use it only when absolutely necessary.

I was wondering about Weld Bond, the manufacturers claim it isn't PVA, don't what it is though, hell, it tastes the same. Guess it would also work. As for the clear domes, it seems CA causes a fogging rather than crazing, I've had it really foul up pristine paint jobs too. I was overjoyed to learn T...

Kinda wondering too. I found Tamiya's flat base, added to Future, needed to be a LOT more flat base to Future than recommended.Something like 1:1 to get a satin finish.

I hear ya brother. I live about 25 miles from Salt Lake City, but it looks like I'll hafta order Tamiya paint on line. I lurv their acrylic. A coupla people around here sell Poly-scale, but I much prefer Tamiya. I'd say it's worth buying online to get Tamiya.

Interesting, I was considering the Central Pneumatics 350 copy, but since Marg decided she doesn't want to spray anything, prefering to brush paint, I'm just gonna use my Badger 350 for metallics. The involved bits are easy and cheap to replace, and now I have the Paasche, it seems to make sense. As...