Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Hard to tell by the pic... but has this kit been primed at all first? I usually do. Also, what psi are you shooting at? I shoot Tamiya at around 20psi or less. How far away are you spraying? You should be no further than 6-8 inches. That could be why you are getting rough areas... the paint is dryin...

Thanks all.... that is what I figured.

I usually use the automotive spray can primer for my models..... but I have a bottle of this stuff hanging around and was wondering....does anyone out there use this and what do you think?

Good

Bad

More or Less OK

Think of it as holy water!

Maybe using their solvent might do it for you?

Thanks for sharing!

Thanks TER-OR.

I do have square brass tube running inside the pylon, but partly sticking out inside the engineering hull and partly into the nacell.

Epoxied these parts last night, so tonight I will use the aves the hide the gap and add the strength I feel that I feel maybe needed.

So, is it only good for filling in gaps and such or does it offer any structural value?

My need is regarding the 22". Where the pylon meets the nacell, I was hoping that it can not only fill a void but provide some strength to the bonding of that joint.

Worse comes to worse.... change the fitting on the hose to work for you better?

Different.... but from what you are saying... useful!

Gerry wrote:

damn you guys!

THIS is why I'm always broke and getting into trouble with my bigger hal . . . I mean "better" half!

You guys keep telling me about the TERRRIC things I just HAVE to HAVE!

Ah Gerry......... that is WHY WE ARE HERE!

They do it to me all the time.

Gerry, ya gotta try it.

Great stuff.

You need an airbrush to apply it but you just spray it like you are handbrushing it on.

Here is the website... http://www.alclad2.com/

Oh Gerry... nice blog site.

Or... go with the cotton idea but glue sand to it... like you do with trees.... dip the branches in glue and apply the leaves to it.

Rocketeer wrote Obviously, the 409 removed the final clearcoat and the layer of aluminum; did it remove the first layer of clear conductive paint, too? As far as I can tell.... there is nothing left but black plastic... so I would say yes! Gerry wrote why did you want to remove the chrome? I find it...

A friend of mine told me about using 409 to strip chrome plating... but I did not think that it would really work so fast!!! :shock: I'm working on the batboat and in a pan, put the chrome plated parts and poured in 409. Went back to check on it, 30 minutes later and found that the tree was black. I...

Paint it first and then put your led to the kit and that will show you if it will work. Remember to do the edge of the hole also.

Nice work!

If you can find someone with a Sotar 20/20... that may be what you are looking for.

I also believe that you can contact Badger and they can advise you as to what they think can work for you.... seeing you like the feel of their product.

What would help to help you is to tells us a little of what you want to use the AB for? Fine detail work.... base coverage..... middle of the ground AB work.

Working on spaceships, cars, figures...etc.

Lots of questions..... So if I wanted to run fiber in a model, I would do it before painting I assume? Leaving the ends sticking out about an inch, then paint the thing, then clip off the extra fiber with toenail clippers or something? That has been done that way. Another way is to mask over the FO ...

Before I go to that conclusion... I would take it apart and re-soak it. If you have one, I would drop it in a sonic cleaner. Maybe there is still something stuck inside causing the problem. As you know, it don't take much. Either way, rinse it out good with windshield washer fluid or water and wipe ...

You can also decant the stuff into a jar and use that in your AB. If you don't know what that is, basically, you let the primer sit in some warm water to help make the primer a bit more fluid; then you spray it thru a straw into another container.... a glass jar. Eveery now and then, you have to ret...

Now the question: Model Master Flat was mentioned; is that the "Flat Clear Lacquer"? Is it OK to use this over Future? Someone earlier in the thread said that it was OK to use Testors Clear Lacquers over future, but now I'm not sure. Me ........ I would let the paint dry out for a couple ...

Ok, just tried to shake it up. Hard to tell. I did not hear anything (fluid moving) nor could I sense that anything was mixing up inside the tube.

BUT, it seemed to do the job.

THANKS

Ok,. ran out of my Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty and went out and bought me a new tube of it. Ahhhh... has the formula changed? :? When I opened it, a runny red fluid came out before anything solid appeared. :shock: Well, I needed to use it so I squeezed some out onto wax paper, mixed the two until...

Ok.

Never used the stuff... So....Do you just apply Weld On with an paint brush?

How do you clean up the brush afterwards?

Ya got me on that one.

Late to the party, but .... I got my first 20/20 at WF from taking a figure painting class there. It seem to me to be for the purpose of certain detail work, but you may find that you need to change the tip from medium to fine to do fine work if that is what you are aiming for. I too have found that...

Ok, I see. Once you print them, you use the krylon to seal them. Does that work well for regular decals as well as the home made jobs?