Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have been able to get the strobe effect by using a 1N4148 signal diode with a 555 timer. I plan to use a 556 timer so I can have the steady nav lights on one half and the strobes on the other. I used the following link successfully for the 555 timer strobes and the navs on my breadboard. http://ww...

http://wolfstone.halloweenhost.com/TechBase/com555_555TimerCalc.html The top 555 timer schematic can handle the lights with an on time of just over 50% and an off time a little under. I plugged into the calculator a value of 470 ohms for resistor-1 and 30,000 ohms for R2 with a 47 uFd capacitor and ...

So it won't do strobes and says that you have to hook up your LEDs in series. I would pass on this at $15.95. Take a peak at this. Mine just arrived. Star Trek Enterprise Navigation/Strobe Board plus LEDs, on/off switch, 9 volt battery clip, wiring for the led's and shrink tubing. $40 plus shipping....

So what I would like to do is use a 556 timer and put the nav lights on the first half and the use the diode on the second half for the strobes. 1 chip and both navs and strobes on it.

You can get a strobe flash if you add a diode to a 555 circuit. OK cool.... then show me a picture or schematic so I can prove that. I'm not a AE engineer here... but I did stay awake in shop class. Google this then... LM3909N I think the "N" stands of National Semiconductor. We have not ...

Google got me nowhere. No hint that new ones are out there. Every entry said they were old, out of production chips. Are they that much better than a 555 timer? You can get a strobe flash if you add a diode to a 555 circuit.

Buy yourself a breadboard then and play/ experiment with the parts. Look at your other post in this section where I put in the calculator link to check resistor values.

http://ledz.com/?p=zz.led.resistor.calculator Most LEDs other than red ones need around 3-3.5 volts. You will need to run 12 in parallel as 3 would be the maximum that you could light in series. plug in your numbers Leds in parallel: Supply Voltage VOLTS 9 Voltage Drop Across LED VOLTS 3.4 Desired L...

As I understand it, AAs will last longer than AAAs

Thanks for the links.

Building an enterprise refit. I just wasn't sure from what I have read here how many layers of paint the outside of the hull could take before losing the effect. Such as primer coat, white coat....perhaps I should experiment on a lesser model.

When painting the outside of the model, what limitations are there to what paint and how much can be used without losing the effect?

McAfee gave me a red flag warning that if email is entered, they will spam you.

Thanks!

So which is finer?

also several dollars in price....

How big a difference is there between mr. surfacer 1000 and 1200?

Do you have a 1st edition kit or the re-issue with aztecs? The plastic is different on the re-issue and the raytheon effect is yellow through the plastic. So you might want to skip the raytheon effect if you have the re-issue.

Item Number : G17848

Unit Price: $1.49

I guess they raised the price to pay your referal fee?

Madman Lighting wrote:I've written a pretty good article on how to light a big model, the 350th scale NX-01, and I'm willing to pass it on to those interested.

Granted, it shows how to use my product, but it also covers how to use LEDs and fiber optics as well.

-John C.

I would be interested in reading your article.

I would like to see a strobe circuit and nav circuit wired, but w/o lights. The flicker circuits are of some interest.

if it's a 555 timer, I understand it will drop about 1.7 volts. 4.5 volts going in wouldn't be enough for some LEDs.

I got mine last summer at the source here in ontario, but I see it's no longer listed on their website. Do you have any friends in the U.S. who you could have it shipped to and then have them forward it to you?

Thanks, but that's out of my price range and considering the lack of response I don't know how many you could expect to sell.

I'm not interested in the flickering engine effect. Flickering is fine for a bird of prey but not for a k'tinga or d-7. If the price is low enough I would be interested.

Raytheon effect. Do a search above for a few threads.

Frequently 3mm and 5mm LEDs require 3.4 to 3.6 volts. 3 AAs would be needed and then the appropriate resistors. If your blinker is a 555 timer you lose 1.7 to 2.0 volts across it, so you would then need 4 AAs.

http://www.color-chart.org/color-wheel.php color wheel charts will help give you an idea of what's to close or not.