Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

You can try putting a capacitor in parallel with the LED but you may only get a fade in. i just tried that with an orange led and a 1000uf cap. nothing happened. the light just came on as per the norm. with a 9 v bat when i do it in series nothing happenedd, no light even. tried it in series with a...

thanks i'll give that a try

how do you get an led to fade in slowly once the power is on, and then fade out once its off? is it possiable to do this with out a micro controler?

depends on the model, if it has lots of tight spaces or is very large, sub assemblies might be better; for example the Galactica, or some klingon ships. And some like the TOS enterprise might be ok to paint once assembeled

how would you get the lights to come on slowly?

that would be great, thanks. im very new to this so its all a learning exprence for me

i would like to do something similar with my voyager, just with out the torpedos

or cut just short of flush and use a soldering iron to melt the ends. just dont truch the fibers with the iron

I've seen the videos and it looks like it would work great. And cheap and ey to use.

I've heard good things about dental acrylic, any idea where I could find that?

Where and how do u get some dental acrylic?

Never though of that...thanks

Sorry I should have specified, I'm planing to ight some windows on the revell voyager original issue. I know I can just leave them hollowed out but I don't like te hollow look it has when you do.

i used gun tape( kinda like duct tape but not matalic )

I don't like the hollow look of models when you remove the windows and just leave them open, what is the easiest way to fill the windows?

Don't forget there is resistors built into the strip. So if there is another led with resistor in the same circut that could affect it.

Which is better internal or external mix? And what brand and make, my internal mixed air bruch is all Jamed up beyond repair.

Lol the only oil I have is gun oil. I have it working for now we'll see what happens when I clean it again

Back before where the air is

I checked the spring and its working perfict, but its the needed in the gun it's self that its sticking, is it safe to put a little bit of oil near the back of the needle?

It's a Campbell hausfeld. And I've been as praying model masters enamels with it.i take it apart and clean it completely right after every use

i'm still new to air brushing, mine is starting to stick and not work, i can pull the needle back but it wont go forward, and when it does it very slow. i clean it after every use and take it apart to clean, should i be oiling it or anyhting if so what kind of oil? i dotn know if it makes much of a ...

When it says "air brush only" does that mean its ready for a air brush or does it still need to be thinned? As well with any other metalizer?

Test it, don't glue it in place if you and kinda dry fit it. If it dosent look like the way u want try sanding down the part, sanding usually works well

I would do them from inside the model behind the screen. as for positioning , be very sparing with the ca glue, i destroyed an LED before useing to much to place it. i use supper glue and have not run into problems since, i still use very little though. ie i will place a small dab of it on the peise...

i've lost the decals for my defiant model, dose anyone have a scaned copy? i've looked at the ones on the site and it dosent have the red parts or restry numbers. i plan to trace and paint them on, any help?

Thanks

i knwo there is a libary on here for decals, and i cant fidn it now. anyone know where it is?

Tall then wide,

So that would work out to be 145.19 CM X 100.31CM