Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

NCC1966 wrote:If it helps, I bought mine at eBay fro $8 and plus $5 shipping for my country (Brasil).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191890204875?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

From what I saw it's sold on amazon for 9.00 and free shipping, and free is a very good price.

Thomas E. Johnson wrote: Vallejo Acrylic Plastic putty is also similar, but thinner, and works great also.

Is this sold in hobby shops and if so does hobbytown carry it or is it also sold on line???

Looked on the internet this weekend and it's listed as being sold at Sears and Walmart both for 12.44 a tube. Not in stores though, it's through third parties on their sites, like how on Amazon you have to be careful and check that you're actually ordering FROM Amazon now. Guess everybody's doing t...

Looked on the internet this weekend and it's listed as being sold at Sears and Walmart both for 12.44 a tube.

If you're talking about Testors Model Master paints then yes because as I recall some one a year or 2 ago stated that all Testors paints are formulated to go on top of one another.

Don't know about seals and gaskets but you should soak the pieces in 90%rubbing alcohol as well as replacing the seals and gaskets.

What type of paint did you run through it??

On the studio model the 2 sides have different window patterns and what R2 did was make both sides the same.

Also just so you know the right hand side windows for the secondary hull are inaccurate.

The reason the drill bits keep breaking is because you're pressing on the pin vise too hard I know because I've broke a couple of tiny drill bits myself, also take your time and don't rush.

Evergreen does make .5mm rod.
Also when drilling such tiny holes I always use a hand drill instead of a power drill, much easier to control.

When I end up drilling a hole and it ends up needing to be moved a bit I'll finish drilling all the way through the plastic and glue a piece of Evergreen rod and once it's dried trim off the excess and sand. As for getting the holes drilled in the right spot have you considered using the window deca...

I've had no problems with tap water being used to thin acrylic paint and then run the paint through my airbrush with 1 exception, acrylic paint from a craft store, I keep getting too much water in the paint.

Like Mad Max said, do NOT use alcohol. I've used MM and Tamiya both and if either one need thinning I use tap water.

imatt88 wrote:Who is SSM?

Starship modeler. You been hiding???

The rod would have to be on the thin side and have enough strength to support the pylons and nacelles.

Any paint needs to be thinned if you're going to run it through an air brush, and also if you're just using a plain old bristle brush the paint could be a bit too thick for the finish you may want to achieve.

Another method is to leave it sit upside down until the glue dries.

www.evergreenscalemodels.com now has just what you're looking for.

The only way to give it a flat coated look is to apply a dull coat once the decals have dried. You could always do a practice application to see if the decals would look 'foggy'.

Pardon my ignorance, but just how does one 'pass' it on to the next guy????

Future floor polish works as an acrylic primer.

I know nothing about resin, other than it's more expensive than styrene and the only type of glue that works for it is super glue.
Evergreen Scale models does have styrene sheets with different sized grill patterns. www.evergreenscalemodels.com

You might want to get a piece of sheet styrene that has a grill pattern and cut out a grill then use it to make a mold for a resin grill, that way you wouldn't have to deal with any puttying any cracks.

I do not know what Pine-Sol will do to clear styrene since I've never soaked any in it. As for simple green it'll probably take at least a month if not longer to remove the old paint because SG works best on fairly fresh acrylics.

Since you have no clear parts then you may want to consider soaking the model in Pine-Sol for a couple of days. But I do not recommend soaking any clear styrene in the it.

Do the clear parts have mold on them???

Lighter fluid usually works to remove tacky residue from masking tape.
Or you could use the same type of tape to remove the residue by putting the tape over the residue and lift it up a few times until all of the residue is gone. And you may need to use more than 1 piece of tape.

Mix paint and thinner in a single 'large' container and poor into the paint cup as needed when air brushing.

Do you want it to look the way it does 'on screen' or the way it would as if it were sitting right in front of you???