Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

As Phule said Solvaset is pretty caustic as a decal set goes. I use it only on thick decals. It'll ruin many of the new very thin decals. Go with the Microset system the micro sol softens the decal and the set gets the decal to lay down and conform to the surface.

Cheers,

Mark

Check out this very fine and extremely well done subtle paint chipping job done one this fighter. This is the kind of stuff we should be doing on our Sci Fi subjects....

http://www.hyperscale.com/galleries/spitfirevbjcb_1.htm

Cheers,

Mark

I used to use CV paint to do prototypes for Kenner. They are okay and some vynil fig guys swear by them.

Cheers,

Mark

For filling I almost exclusively use epoxy putty. When I do use a seam filler I use the bondo finishing putty as it is a lot cheaper than the model stuff and better IMHO. I do wet sand exclusively and you will find that it creates a finer more "polished" surface when you are done. Cheers, ...

I agree Oils or pastels are the way to go.
Also, I have used a post-it-note snuggled up against a scribed line to make it look like it leached from the seam.

Cheers,

Mark

I should. Finish it past the 5000 by getting some old fashioned style toothpaste (gritty type list regular Crest or Colgate) and use that like you would polishing compound for car finishes. That is an old jeweler's trick for polishing delicate jewelry (Making jewelry is one of my other hobbies...heh...

How fine a sand paper did use to finish the piece? You should work progressively up to 6000 grit and always use a wet sanding technique.

Cheers,

Mark

When I am brushing with Acrylic in any of my Paasches I typically I clean with Windex. I also keep an airbrush bottle full of Windex to run through the brush from time to time. It helps to keep it cleaner and makes for less final clean up..


Cheers,

Mark

Generally the "milk" consistancy is correct. With Model Master paints as a rule you only need to add about one quatrer thinner to 3/4 paint. Most others I go 2:1 paint/ thinner.

Cheers,

Mark

Once you have got a good set of plans to work from, the other thing you can do is trace and cut your own tempates from the plans then you can build an area up and sand it to shap using the template as a guage. Another trick for let's say sides that are an odd shape but the same from both sides is to...

bob, Here is what I usually do for bones. I paint the "bones" a flat white generally acrylic over a good primer. I then let is cure for several days. After the cure time has past I start going at the "bone" with sucessive washes of burnt umber oils. The key to this was is that I ...

I agree with John. The other thing to consider is that trying to paint at those temps can be problematic at best. Most manufacturers recommend a temp between 65 and 80.

Cut a popsickle stick to fit the shape then attach the sand paper to that with some double sided carpet tape.

P@T,

I think the 2 ton epoxy might be your best bet as you are not likely to get any warping of fthe styrene (provided the gaps in your frame work are not too big).

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

One thing I forgot to mention is that you will need to be aware of bubbles particularly if you use the contact cement. I wouldmake sure to gat a narrow roller and lay the sheet down starting at one end and rolling out the extra air as you go. If you get a buble you are likely to have a heck of a tim...

I would say contact cement if you are not concerned with the longevity of the model. The problem with most contact cements is that they can be affected by heat, humidity, etc. If you use a "hardcore" contact cements like those used in the flooring industry are not likely to be effected the...

I use a file brush as well as a wire brush on my Dremel. One thing to remember is to not use a file brush on Diamond files and it could remove the diamond abrasive. I have a soft brass brush for those.

I would hezitate to soak the metal parts in uncut vinigar overnight. This could seriously over etc the surface and that will leave a texture you will never be able to completely remove. Clean like Ter said and then soak in the vinigar for no more than two hours. Since you do not know the makeup of t...

With a model as big as the Omega I would definitly pin the larger parts and if you are willing to take the time for the glue to cure i would us 2 ton exopy. It takes about 45 min. to cure but it is a super strong bond. As to the smaller flat parts just glue then with 5 min epoxy and don't worry abou...

Thanks! Yeah I'm actually in Miamisburg which is a suburb of Dayton. About 15mins away from downtown Dayton. Dude! you're not far from me, I am in West Carrollton. What i do to flatten "flat" pieces is to get a 1'x1' piece of marble flooring from a place like Home depot (should be under $...

Personally i only use the Bondo glazing putty as a spot filler. I much prefer using Aves Expoxy Scult or Magic Sculpt epoxy putties for the vast majoriity of my filling requirements. This and smooth them with alcohol and you are ready to go.

Thanks for the heating tip Jack. I forgot to mention that heat can speed the cure time. Just so you all know, if you are working on a metal or white metal kit, 20 min in the oven on warm (125-150 degrees) will cure the putty and not effect the metal.

I have also found that the Alcohol dries faster than the saftey solvent. Thus keeping the putty from getting to "gooy". That is one of the reasons I never use water.

I alway prime the surface first. This usually gives a firm, stable base for the finished color.

I have both the saftey solvent and alcohol. I still prefer to us the alcohol. I think it is easier to blend the putty into the surface of the model with alcohol.

Just my 2 cents,

Mark

Baby powder works okay for that but plain old corn starch works much better. First it is a much finer grain than babypowder and if you need to reactivate the sticky properties all you need to do is brush it with a little alcohol and a fine, soft brush. This will dissolve the corn sarch however, BP w...

You may want to hit an autoparts store and pick up some Bondo glazing putty. It is a main stay for spot filling, sands easily and is cheap for the ammount you get (much cheaper than Squadren Green stuff).

Hope this helps,

Mark

Great.:roll: Y'all raved about Aves and now you're suggesting the stuff I was already using! Make up my mind already! No, no Aves is one of the best fillers and when mixecd porperly it has a great deal of adhesive properties. I primarily use Aves as a filler. However, I do still use Bondo glazing p...

One of the things you need to consider when using Sculpy and Super Sculpy is that they are oil based polymers. Baking at 125 for 15 minutes will not cure the sculpy and you will have the residual oil to deal with. When I sculpt in super sculpy I generally bake it at 200-225 for a couple of hours. Th...

Two factors figure in with Milliput age and mixing ratio. It is very unforgiving if not mixed almost exactly 50/50. Also if it is over a year old it could be going bad which will effect it's ability to cure completely.

Later,

Mark