Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

http://www.starshipmodeler.biz/shop/ind ... entCat=156

The above and other tools are available from the online store.

TazMan2000

Wood and paper glues will adhear to the MDF, but may not hold well onto styrene unless you take 100 grit sandpaper and roughen up the surface. As it ages it may lose the bond with the styrene.
Contact cement, when properly applied will last the longest.

TazMan2000

Doesn't the primer stick to the molds? I had that happen with Tamiya Putty, which embedded itself in the mold.

TazMan2000

I've noticed on this site an others that most GK'ers use a grey paint/coating before casting their part.

What is this coating, and does it improve castings or, if applied too thick, obscure detail?

TazMan2000

Real model for some shots.

http://www.iwatchstuff.com/2008/12/so_m ... photos.php

TazMan2000

This can be done in a one piece mold if you don't need the details on the reverse size. Just plug the hole with putty, glue down the edges to the bottom of the mold box and pour your RTV.

TazMan2000

Hah! I never thought of that. It might take a lot of heat though, since its going to be around 20 inches long. How would you recommend I clamp the two pieces together over that distance, so that it is perfectly in the middle?

TazMan2000

Get solid styrene rod (Evergreen) in a diameter that justs fits into the brass tubing and bend away. However solid brass tubing will bend easier. Heating with either a soldering iron, or a small butane torch will make the job go smoother, but I wouldn't recomend doing that with the brass tubing and ...

scratchy wrote:I go straight to the manufacturer, and I agree with this qoute,

Kylwell wrote:Or you just go ahead and find a plastics supplier and 4x8 foot sheet for about $20.

I purchased a .060" sheet for $20.00cdn.

Do you mind if I ask the source scratchy?

TazMan2000

Nice! Mine looks small now; http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=78630 The Sulaco is a greatship to build, even at big size, because it's "flat" ship so storage is not really a big deal. But yours is twice longer than mine. (I speak about the space ship, of course...) Olivi...

Click on the link. Dohhh! Didn't realize embedded link. Unfortunately looking for something slightly larger than 1/4 inch, and the largest size they have is 1/8 inch. But its a good find for future projects. Thanks. But I think I will go with mjmadison's suggestion and use CA, and hope for the best...

Kylwell wrote:Small Parts?

Not certain what you mean, Kylwell.

TazMan2000

Is there another distributor, besides Plastruct, that makes Tee structural shapes, in either metal or plastic, that is greater than the T-8 size? I'm making the engine nacelles of a 1/16 Y-Wing and these are for the spars that support the engine exhaust deflectors. The T-8 size is 6.4mm (1/4") ...

TazMan2000, All my hobby shops stock nothing but Alumilite as well. Thanks your the second person who has mentioned the fast set up time. Is there a different product that you'd recommend? Don't know. Alumilite is the only product that I tried. Search scratchbuilding forums for user's rating for di...

The only casting resin hobby stores around here sell is Alumilite. It works well and have been using it for a couple of years. But I agree with tsenecal, it sets up much too quickly (and not quickly enough, when you want it to). I would prefer something that I could add a chemical to in different am...

Its kind of a poor man's way of doing it...but it works for me before I got my lathe. If you require something perfectly round, try putting a screw (and a couple of nuts on either side of the styrene) through a rough cut piece of styrene. Secure a power drill to your bench and then mount the styrene...

I've never done it myself, but from what I've read it's pretty simple.

Check this out.

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/fh_pe.htm

TazMan2000

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103454# Basically pick spot on the model that will support the weight evenly. Drill a hole that is the size of your threaded connector and screw the nut down until tight. You may need to use a few washers (perhaps of different sizes to accomodat...

That is soooo cool! Where do you find the room to house all of your large scale projects?

TazMan2000

Ok... Say your cutting up all these little plastic strips to mount all over a starship hull. Putting them in random places and all that. How and where do you put them to make the ship look good and not ..."Fake". Somehow in some places...it just doesnt look right to me. Should I use tubin...

A two piece mold isn't really that hard. There are plenty of resources on the internet with easy ideas, such as substituting mold release with vaseline (a product that may already be in your home). Why not expand your skills and try a two piece mold? It may start a new era in your model making. TazM...

Through a seach of Sitedossier, I managed to find the IP address of 209.63.57.10, however still no connection. Now if you can't get a connection through an IP address there has got to be a problem (providing that's the correct IP address). Perhaps the people who do have access have the same ISP? Taz...

Do you have an IP address for your website? We could do this without DNS resolution.

TazMan2000

tetsujin is right. That's going to be difficult to replicate on a static model, even with a random light effect. I would think it would look like navigation lights. Now if you incorporate movement with your model, as in trying to avoid a collision with another ship or asteroid or breaking a hold of ...

If you get white glue, try the fast drying stuff for paper modellers, like 3M Scotch Quick Drying Tacky White Glue. This should be available at most craft stores.

TazMan2000

Does the cross-section have to be equilateral? If not, evergreen sells square tubing. Perhaps you can cut off one side and glue the open ends together? How about a hobby circular saw that you could rip a solid square cross-sectioned piece of styrene at an angle you choose? Evergreen and Plastruct al...

Tell the printer driver the paper is transparency. This should lessen the ink flow. If transparency is not available, try premium photo paper or something that says "glossy".

TazMan2000

I can't either. SQL errors or something?

TazMan2000

For thin plastic stock the OLFA circle cutter works well, but for thick plastic such as 1 mm or above it works poorly. Not wanting to spend hundreds of dollars on a lathe, just to cut some circles occasionally, I clamped down my 1/2 inch drill (on parts that have no bearings) and used a fine threade...

I agree with "mjorge". CA is the best way.

TazMan2000