Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I don't believe there is a definitive list of what colours they used on the filming models other than the base coat which is Ford Diamond White, if I am not mistaken. From what I can tell, they used common weathering techniques by masking and spraying panels lightly to achieve a plated metal look or...

Those depressions are supposed to be there. Don't fill them in, but you might want to find or make some dish shaped pieces to fit in those depressions.

TazMan2000

How about one of these?:

http://www.omailighting.com/product/led ... bulbs.html

TazMan2000

I have no idea where you live, but before you try online sources where you will pay high prices for small cut up sheets, look up plastic suppliers stores locally. Granted, some may have a minimum amount that you have to purchase, but you can get several sheets in different thicknesses and, depending...

I agree with Lt. Z0mBe. The technology of colour perception is a course in itself, but really, the only inexpensive way is to get colour swatches directly from the manufacturer of the paint company and use those to determine what paint is suitable by matching up the swatch right against the model. B...

Try pushing an exacto blade into the joint and slowly saw back and forth. Even though the shear strength of CA is poor, I've had some joints that refused to come apart and left part of the resin piece behind. This would happen if the styrene and resin were sanded and the conditions for bonding were ...

Happy to help. Looking forward to see your shuttle fully painted.

TazMan2000

Most any hardware store that sells paint will carry painters tape. I recommend the yellow stuff because it has less tack. Its better for Vallejo paints.

TazMan2000

What I do, is use green or yellow paint masking tape cut into thin strips about 2-3 millimetres wide. At that width, you can follow the curvature with the tape still being able to stretch and be fairly smooth around the curves. The top part may be a little tight so the masking tape may be a little s...

Most definitely that Tamiya paint was too thick out of the jar. Also, depending on how long it was sitting, stuff in the paint gels and must be vigorously mixed, and sometimes strained before painting. Tamiya paints are good quality, but suffer the same issues as most paints.

TazMan2000

I wonder if something like this could be useful https://www.etsy.com/listing/215961755/5-meters-raw-brass-snake-chains-25mm?ref=market https://www.etsy.com/listing/102943553/2-vintage-brass-20-serpentine-tube?ref=market It could be useful, but I find the round shoelaces can replicate that look too....

Split loom tubing comes in several sizes. However depending on the display, the split may be seen from different angles.

TazMan2000

Very good information. Practice is key, as Kylwell mentioned. If you try something and screw up, you haven't made a mistake, you've just leaned a way not to do it. A lot of these techniques we use now have come from modellers experimenting and sharing their experiences. Everyone has made goof-ups wi...

What type of airbrush do you have? 5 minutes isn't nearly enough time to do even a quick job. You either have to drive faster, move closer or not work on your models when you are on call. I know that is not what you want to hear but your situation does allow for any flexibility. But....you might get...

OMG. I have no idea. However, I have recently started using Vallejo paints. They come in several color ranges. The Game Color range that they have seem to have more pastel colours, but the Model Air range has paint prethinned for airbrush use and seems to be concentrated on military colors. But I be...

I suggest you mix your own colours. Just keep a log on how many drops of each color you use. The Vulcan shuttle uses slightly different shading on several panels that are only are only a shade apart. Others have looked like greys, browns, blacks and even yellows we added to divide the colour pallet ...

Johnnycrash wrote:

TazMan2000 wrote:That automotive etching primer...do you have a brand name that works for you?

It's just called "Primer" from Canadian Tire. It's oxide red. I think it might also come in grey (used to). But I find that the grey doesn't cover very well.

Thank you.

That automotive etching primer...do you have a brand name that works for you?

TazMan2000

Space Ranger 1 has a good idea, but if you can't find talc, use the plastic sanding dust collected from sandpaper. Put a dab of CA into the hole and cover it with talc or dust. When it starts to harden, push it in with a sharp object. Repeat as necessary. For me this works and creates a strong plug ...

I started off with Alumilite and still use it today. Its a great general purpose RTV rubber.

TazMan2000

I have EnviroTex Lite bi-part resin, and I'm wondering if there's a way to make a quick and dirty resin cast of a model part. Perhaps using Super Scupey as a mold. I'd like to make clear domes for my 1/2500 Romulan Bird of Prey, and there's also a ladder-pattern on the engine of a 1/1000 Klingon BO...

I've never molded a spatula before, but I'm sure you'll be fine. RTV is a bit of a different recipe that the food grade silicon but if in doubt, coat your piece with a thin layer of vaseline. You always could take a small drop of your RTV and dab it on a spatula to see what happens.

TazMan2000

Perhaps a square drill bit?

How small are the holes? TOS Enterprise?
I think using a good set of jeweller's files is the way to go. Use the triangular ones and go slowly to ensure that the holes are square.

TazMan2000

Look in your local yellow pages of plastic supply businesses. You can get 4x8 sheets or larger in several thicknesses for a fraction of what Evergreen charges. Manufactures and suppliers use the term HIPS. High Impact Poly-Styrene.

TazMan2000

You may be able to with inkjet but be cautious. Paper paths are not always straight and may cause damage to your inkjet. Forget about laser printers. Most use heat and pressure to fuse the toner to the paper and styrene has a low melting point. Even if it manages to print something, most plastics re...

Even regular CA works pretty good. I use the thick stuff.

TazMan2000

When dealing with larger diameters, styrene really isn't easily available, I have found. As many members have chimed in, you may have better luck with another type of plastic and another manufacturer. Many plastic manufacturers can offer product in specific internal and external diameters in increme...

Rocketeer's idea worked like a charm. I will use Modelnutz idea when the master is less dense than the RTV. Thanks to all who provided ideas. I've done a 4 part mold myself. Well... it didn't start out as 4 parts. While trying to de-mold the first casting in a two part mold, one of my halves ripped ...

For so much effort that Modelnutz has put into his post, I feel bad for not trying it out first, but I think I'll try out Rocketeer's white glue trick because it seems easier. But first I will see if the glue that I'm using will detach easily from the RTV.

TazMan2000

In making a two part RTV mold, I accidentally de-molded the master while removing the clay. Since the master part is very light, I'm afraid that just sticking back the master and pouring RTV over top will result in the RTV making its way into part 1 of the mold. Is there any way to re-secure the mas...