Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Castrol Super Clean. (now just Super Clean) If the Fine Molds chrome-plating is anything like Tamiya chrome-plating, it'll work. I used CSC to strip a Tamiya Mig-15 and a few motorcycle kits. It will need an overnight bath (or two) in a *sealed* sterlite container. It'll kill the chrome and that sic...

I've tried using the TnF applicator with Ambroid/Tenax and it clogs about 1/2 the time I use it. (and I've got three of em) It doesn't help that whatever plastic holds that needle in place is very susceptible to liquid cement. When it does work, it's awesome. But I'm using beaten up paintbrushes more.

My first airbrush was an Aztek. I still use it for gloss/flat coating. I have 2 Iwatas now. The Azteks are fine brushes for learning fundamentals, and they'll certainly instill the importance of cleaning regimen. (I don't think that Azteks are prone to clogging, but they do punish sloppiness) Eclips...

Castrol Super Clean (or just Super Clean) auto degreaser works without melting/crazing clear styrene.

I'd give PollyS Easy-Lift Off a try if you haven't already. It made a bigger dent with the pre-painted Revell Jedi Starfighter than CSC. You're still doomed to a lot of toothbrush scrubbing.

FWIW, Citristrip, a citrus-based paint stripper, does work great on die-cast metal cars. Make dang sure that you've got all the plastic parts removed though...

Nicely done.

LastBattlestar wrote:Are we talking about an alkaline (like wheel cleaner), alcohol, petrochemical or citrus-based cleaner?

Mike, Oz

SuperClean's main ingredient is lye, just like Oven Cleaner but in much stronger concentration. You definitely want to use disposable vinyl gloves when working with it.

Acetone-based nail polish remover.

Squadron does carry Alclad II and spray bomb Mr Surfacer. Their website sucks noodles though, you'll need IE for the search to work.

The Eclipse's nozzle is easier to clean than the Revolution's, but the Eclipse costs more. I prefer gravity-fed ABs versus siphon-fed- so either CS or CR would be my choice. (and the 0.5mm nozzle is fine for general coverage) But that 1/3oz cup is pretty huge. My thumb up to the first knuckle fits i...

Way better than Testors. Acrylic Lacquer- so they're slightly hotter, but they're thinner than Testors enamel rattle cans. Never dealt with pearlescent colors, but their gloss and metallic colors are top notch. Only problem I ran into (once) is that the color in the can didn't match the cap color. I...

I like Tamiya spray bomb TS-51 Racing Telefonica Blue....

The key with sludge (as FSM descibes it) is that it must be applied to a gloss finish. The gloss makes it easier to wipe/remove the excess from whatever you're trying to "pop-out" (be it panel lines, recessed detail, etc) A common mistake is applying sludge on flat finishes- which merely s...

I'd try running a thinner mix (50-60%) and dial your pressure below 10psi. Adjust that roller until it's almost closed- and shoot very close.

Automotive section of Wal-Mart. Comes in a gallon-sized purple jug. And it probably doesn't have the "Castrol" branding on it. It simply says "Super Clean"

Why Castrol no longer brands that product? Beats me.

Tamiya kits have a creamy yellow undercoating on their chromed/metallic parts. The chrome usually comes off immediately w/o problems- but that undercoating is a bit tougher and needs stronger stuff.

Castrol Super Clean took care of both.

Castrol Super Clean has always been my big gun for stripping paint, but I use ELO for very specific applications: -when I can't immerse/submerge the entire part I use ELO. That's its' greatest strength- being able to brush it on to specific areas -when CSC doesn't work. CSC didn't make a dent in tho...

Ditto what Antenociti said. I always wipe the needle with a very thin layer of lube at end of a final cleaning; but I usually don't lube any other parts. I've had the needle stick on my Iwatas when I've forgotten to lube- particularly when it gets cold in the winter. I remember reading that the choi...

Immerse (completely submerge) in Castrol Super Clean in a Sterlite/Rubbermaid plastic shoe container. Seal the container. 24-48hrs tops.

I deconstructed an old DS9 Runabout by throwing it in the freezer. I had originally assembled it with Testors tube glue, and freezing makes those bonds extremely brittle. After a day or two, it was a simple matter of twisting and popping the parts off. I don't know if models assembled with liquid ce...

The couple of posts I've seen regarding Azteks have been somewhet... critical, to put it politely. Should I be staying away from Azteks entirely? Azteks usually elicit a strong love it/hate it response. Some have achieved great results with their brushes; and some have received constant headaches. ...

Squadron's under new ownership, (last November I think) and they've re-vamped both their website and their monthly mail flyer since the switch.

I liked their site a lot better before the change.

FYI, Sprue Bros carries Mr Surfacer as well.

I use Super Clean on resin all the time. Not only does it strip paint very well, I've found it to be indispensible for cleaning resin prior to priming. From Black Box/True Details cockpits to the Alliance Galactica and every resin kit/conversion/base I've bought from the SM store. I've never had a p...

I like Mission Models Micro Chisel.

I love natural-metal finishes, but I've always been lukewarm about most foil-covered models. In scales larger than 32nd, foil is better than any metalizer paint. In limited application (like a chrome bumper, heat shield or landing gear oleo) foil has no equal. But complete and total coverage in 48th...

ill just use the Brett Green "Fist Full o' Airbrush" aproach Bless em' for making all those useful Testor's Scale Workshop videos- but for some inane reason Brett Green's method of holding the AB has always irked the bejeezus outta me. :) Instead of holding it like a pencil, he holds it l...

If it's plated like the Polar Lights BTTF Delorean, nothing will chemically remove that plating. You'll have to sand it off. (I don't have the J2- I just remember my stripping agony with the Delorean)

Super Clean is what I use for stripping paint and most model-kit plated chrome.

Nother' vote for Alclad- tough stuff as long as your primer's decent.

If you get a chance, Testors has some interesting metallics in their Automotive Lacquer line (spray bomb only) They have a Plymouth Bright Platinum Metallic that I like a lot.

That's what I do also: flush between colors, break down at the end of a session. I disassemble the cap/nozzle assembly, go over the nozzle with a GUM Proxabrush , and brush and soak the caps in cleaner/thinner. Needle gets a cleaner wipe down and a light lube. Re-assemble, flush with distilled water...