Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

modelnutz wrote:I just call the mistakes "design features"

Or "battle damage".

ILM also used glass microscope slides for one of the X-Wing models' canopies.

If it's just styrene I always use superglue.

Yeah I'm going to work on my airbrushing. Right now I'm like a caveman, just smacking the trigger to make stuff happen.

Thanks! I'll just have to play around until it looks good.

So that's all they did just airbrushed it on? I thought it might be some kind of raised mask or something.

I've got this kit and I'm wondering how they did the panel shading like this: http://www.federationmodels.com/model_k ... isplay.jpg (Federation Models' picture). Could someone walk me through how you can do this effect?

How old is the glue? I've had superglue that has been around a while not work. So I'm thinking maybe superglue can go bad or something.

Okay I'll try that. I was gluing styrene to styrene so I wasn't trying to bond two different types of plastics.

I got some Plastruct Bondene and I stick the pieces together and run some of the glue along the seam. It will look glued then it will eventually come apart. It looks like it's only glueing the edge I apply the glue to with a little on the sides. Am I doing something wrong? The glue is brand new.

I always just use stuff I get at Meijers. I know they say you should uses Testors with Testors lacquer, but I've never had any problems. Don't buy the stuff they sell at Lowe's stores because it's too weak to clean brushes IMO.

I get all mine from MicroMark . My success has been very good and they're dirt cheap compared to other suppliers (about a buck a sheet). -Shawn :smoke: I've seen them in their catalog, I just wasn't sure how well they worked. I might try those first because there's usually something I need to order...

Thanks!

I want to start printing some decals and I've seen lots of types of decal paper that says it's for inkjets. So what's best to use?

Thanks!

I didn't know you were THAT close!


I'll try a couple of the suggestions. Another dumb question, should I pin every part together or just heavier parts. I ask because some things like flat pieces, don't have much room for you to drill into.

Thanks!

Yeah I'm actually in Miamisburg which is a suburb of Dayton. About 15mins away from downtown Dayton.

I'm working on a WARP B5 Omega kit and a couple flat pieces are bent. I've heard you can use hot water to straighten them back out, but how would I go about doing that? How hot do you need to get the part?

Not to hijack the thread, but what's a good primer to use if you're using a light color over top of it? I usually use Floquil primer, but to use a light color over it takes a lot of coats.

I'm pretty sure I'm close enough, around 4-5inches. That's what I thought initially, but if this was the problem the paint would be like that all over the model, not just tight areas.

I think I ruined my theory. I wiped off some pastel chalk with wet toilet paper and it also created static electricity. So I'm not sure if it's the same thing with the paint or not. I'm going to try and sand a piece of bare styrene and see if the sanding creates a charge too.

I'm thinking exorcism...

Someone mentioned this problem might be from static. I'm starting to think that maybe the sanding built up a charge because while weathering this thing the chalk powder flew off the brush onto the model in a few areas. I wonder how you get rid of a static charge in styrene if that's the problem?

Welcome to my world. Weathering that is. First, have you tried a pastel sludge wash? Power soem chalk pastels, medium gray to black, add some water and smear on. Let it lightly dry and wipe off in the direction of the airflow. Enhances panel lines and gives some light weathering. Next, get out the ...

I'm finishing my Chiss fighter and I started doing the weathering on one side, but it's still looking too clean. Does anyone have any ideas? The look I'm going for is a fighter that has been in the field for a while and has just flown out the other side of a huge dogfight. Would lightly misting blac...

Thanks, didn't think of looking there...

I've only used acrylics once and they dried in my airbrush. So I'd like to take another stab at it. Does anyone know of a good acrylic paint guide that tells how to use them? Airbrushing in particular.

TER-OR wrote:between coats of Future? You don't need to wait long. A few hours at most if the humidity isn't high. Usually I leave things sit overnight anyway.

Well sonuva! I could have done another coat already! I guess I'm waiting overnight now.

Something I haven't seen mentioned is how long to wait between coats? I mean if you lay down light coats, how long do you go back over it?