Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

You might Also try spray oven cleaner. I have had great success with this just make sure to do it in a well ventalalted area.

Dude i'm tellin yah that unlessyou are in the red clay areas of the deep south, grind up some dirt from the yard and sift it. ZIf you don't have a mortor and pestle to grind iit in put in a cople of baggies one inside the other and pound it with a hammer. Unless you are doing a beach schene or the d...

Well I am a tried and true believer in real turpentine. I feel it works the best (although the smell gets to some people if so try turpeniod). I find mineral spirits too close to paint thinnner and if too heavy handed they can eat trough paint. If you want the was to dry fairly quickly (as in overni...

Go find some dry clay in your area or dirt that is the right color. then sift it through a kitchen style sifter. nothing works better than the real thing.

I'm of two minds on this. Having grown up with my father being a model railroader, it depends on the look you are trying to achieve. The first would be to start with the premis that the machine is not likely to be washed very often thus go with the gray to darker gray with grease stains etc. For the...

I'd go with one of the well know epoxy putties (just not Milliput). I'll gladly trade a longer cure time for a heck of a lot less sanding.

Here yah go... http://acm.smsu.edu/~jacktaylor/customs/ab/ab-dis.html http://acm.smsu.edu/~jacktaylor/customs/ab/ab-ass.html I hope you enjoy your VL as much I have mine. One thing though. What ever you do, don't loose the plastic protectors for the needles. Particularly the #1. It has an extremely ...

My recommendation would be to fill the bubbles with epoxy putty. The putty will have the best chance of having an equal hardness as the resin. While you can fill the holes with super glue, you may find that it sets up harder than the resin and that can cause problems when scribing.

Here is a rule of thumb I always use when I paint with Laquers or enamels. I always make a sample card (read: sheet of styrene) with the colors that I am using. I paint it at the same time as the model so the card is drying at the same rate as the model. I then can test my clear coats etc. on a sect...

Here is a rule of thumb I always use when I paint with Laquers or enamels. I always make a sample card (read: sheet of styrene) with the colors that I am using. I paint it at the same time as the model so the card is drying at the same rate as the model. I then can test my clear coats etc. on a sect...

So far the best flat finish I have found is Humbrols matt. I have successfully killed the highest gloss finish with it. The other advantage is no matter how many coats I put on, it remains dead flat.

If you really want to paint it, then I would use oils and blend the colors.

Since you are new to the technique here is what I would recommend. Take either some spare parts (realatively large) or sheet plastic and paint it with the same colors as your model. Weather the "test" pieces just like the model. Then practice getting the light coats down on the test parts ...

Another thing you could try is to get some Magic Sculpt epoxy putty. It can be thinned with alcohol to the point where it can be rushed on. I would brush a fairly thick layer on, let it sit a while to start to set up then smooth it out with a soft, flat brush. You should be able to get it to a point...

A granet block can be expensive. I used (I broke it after 7 years of use) to use a marble cutting board that I got at Pier 1 Imports. It cost 20 or so and you could tape down the sandpaper and wetsand as well. It made ofr a nice smooth surface to slide the angle blocks along.

What ter said.... Although here is something I have found to be a very valuable tool to have around. Just tape the work to it then run it along the sand paper taped down. http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60626 I use mine quite of...

Another possibility would be to try using Floquil or Scale Coat Caboose red. Or Mix that red 3 to 1 with Boxcar red.

Alfred,

The technique i wrote about is what we did to get "super accurate alignment. I would go with the telescoping tbing idea. Drii the hole free hand and put the tubing in with epoxy putty. Should work great for those odd shapes.

While I worked at the model shop, we would often have to make precision locator pegs. We always resorted to building a jig that would allow us to hold the plain iof the surface to be mated level (for both pieces). Quite often, I would tack the pieces together with a bit of super glue and mark a line...

What? Who?

I'll take my payment in beer please......

I figure a six pack per person (that way we can properly host the Saturday night party..............)

I can be ready to go close to 9. If Steve does an intro, then I should be ready to rock and roll after that. Joe can join the fun when he gets there. I don't mind flyin solo for a session or two.

Yes, I will be getting up at 0 dark 30 to be there as close to 9 as possible.

I am for the Round Robin, and leaving some room for people to attend a session more than once (If they really feel they need to concentrate on that subject).

Hey Larry,

So ya want the money in nickles, dimes or pennies?

I hope so, or the "one" might be upset, since I am scheduled to teach.

Manufacturer and Model of Airbrush: Paashe V Cost of Airbrush: Type (single, double): Double Is it more suitable for fine lines or broad coverage?Both depending on the tip chosen Paint head (internal or external mix): internal Body construction (plastic, chrome plated brass, other): Chrome plated br...