Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I'm fine waiting until after the holidays.

Just a couple of things ... 2) Like Lonewolf, I won't be able to attend WF in the near future, so unless Gundamhead can go, the NE build won't be there ... unless we post it to some kind soul to take for us? Maybe we could ask M3 to haul ours along with his? 3) I am still in the process of deciding...

We almost have enough team members for 3 separate projects- with an average of four participants each. (Move one of the Canadian contingent over to the first step in the Northeast group, and there's 4 exactly in each.) Start the process on January 1. Each participant has 1 month to work, document, ...

I will admit I am a little gun shy after last time... It was my team who had our entry destroyed by an と お思 team member. And after I donated all of those nice Enterprise-D smoothie parts. :x That being said I'll give it another go! I'm in Southern Ontario so can go after Johnnycrash and before Lonew...

Once have 3D cameras that can take a holographic image you might be able to have the printer make a part from that.

There is a great page here all about the various surfacers. You can also buy them here.

http://www.uschivdr.com/shop-colors-pig ... ar-primer/

Also look around the page for some great finishing materials and other amazing modeling items.

Thanks, Blap. But presumably the 500 is better for filling gross flaws? So you brush 500 and spray 1000 and higher? The finer grain sounds great, but aren't most modelers going to sand it anyway down to at least 400 or 600 grit? Yes. Brush 500 and Spray the rest. I might polish the primer with 3200...

Thanks Kenny, Great info. Have you used the Dupont primer surfacer and found out that it performs the same? Is it more like the 1000 stuff or the 500 stuff? 1000 seems thinner. 1000 had a finer pigment so you get a much smoother finish. They also have the 1200 and 1500 primers that are even finer. ...

HWR MKII wrote:Well WF is over and id like to revitalize this section. SO post any updates ya got guys!

This just might re-energize me!

HWR MKII wrote: So after a relatively quiet period. How are the projects coming.

Mine has not changed in ages. The parts are in a box on the shelf. They need to be glued together then shaped.

Maybe I will find the time this year.

OK. I sort of get it. SO based on a chart like this
http://www.elexp.com/tips/clr_code.gif

What colour coded resistor do I need? I have a pile (literally) here of them I got from my brother years ago when he quit electronics to take computer sciences instead.

I have a circuit with two blue LEDs from Radio Shack (Called The Source in Canada now) wired in series to a switch and a 9V battery. They are super bright right now. Here is a video of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcPJMnKPfOs&feature=plcp Am I giving these things too much voltage and will ...

Huh! I have never even thought of doing this. I guess I have never needed to. What mold release do you use?

I'm sorry to hear that. Sometimes you just gotta toss the part and make a new one.

It's too bad you cannot get a replacement kit.

I think your basically boned on this one. I had a bad mix many years ago and as test I left a part that was weeping on the shelf on paper towels. Two years later it was still weeping. I tried the post cure thing with no luck. If the resin never had it's little happy molecular bonding party it will h...

Beauty, eh?

I have to do a one day build. I think I even know the subject! Maybe I will do one over WF weekend.

Those are some nice designs.

Kylwell wrote: They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin.

Today was the first time I heard about this. I happened to be at my LHS today and they had it in stock so I bought a jar. I will give it a try on my next build.

No, just being difficult to find in the states. They've also come out with Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 which is hotter for use on metal and resin. I have Mr. Resin Primer and it is much better on resin than the regular stuff. The regular stuff will peel and flake off during masking. Resin stuff does n...

I have a full wood working shop, so I have some tools that others do not. Still, I have taken hardwood dowels, chucked them in my lathe, and sanded them so A. they were round, B. cylindrical, and C. the correct diameter. I was surprised how much the dowels were neither A. nor B. I have found the sa...

Are there pictures?

blckbuster wrote:I have had success with filling tubes with water and freezing them before carefully bending them

Yes! I saw them making a trombone on "How it's made" a few weeks ago and they were doing this to bend the thin brass tubes.

Ouch! Machining acrylic can take a delicate touch. I think that's partially why Brad prefers polycarb, he can take huge cuts out of it. It's much more forgiving to such abuses. Most definitely. It's not good for really thin walled rocket engine bells. You can reef on Smooth Cast resin really hard. ...

I have done is by hand like outlander suggests but never with heat. So my answer is "Very carefully!"

I personally hate machining either Acrylic or Polycarbonate. I find them both too "melty" and brittle. If I need something clear or translucent I will cast a cylinder of corresponding resin and turn that. You can also glue it with superglue quite easily. I had one too many experiences wher...

I like it!

I have a piece of 3/8" glass from a large aquarium. http://tinyurl.com/879tctm

I use 3M Super 777 spray mount to put sheets of sand paper on it. Use the Silicon Carbide Waterproof stuff. It allows you to wet sand and it will go faster and cleaner.

This reminds me. I want to build a 12" square vac box for making large clear domeish windshields.

Milliput Hee hee! You said Millitput. That's like saying I use a hollow reed to blow ground up rock pigment from my mouth onto the wall of the cave. :D Seriously though that's a cool idea for a home made tool. I have some dental tools with various sized ends like that I use for the same thing.

I think it's super expensive too. They make competition YoYos out of it too. I was going to make a custom one for a relative but the piece I needed for it was really expensive.