Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Just depends what you are trying to do? Photo-etch is a bit different to work with and requires different prep work if you want to do it right? If you want to retain the natural brass finish(I've never done that),you would need to give it a lite sanding on its surfaces, bend it to shape(if required)...

I've used 5 minute steel epoxy instead of regular body fillers. Almost the same deal as using a super glue filler, but a "stronger bind" I.M.O and its not hard to scribe and it stakes tooling pretty well and just as easy to prime.

I was a little thrown off by the question too.

I am guessing that you have painted the photo etch and you are intending to put decals on it?I don't think you will have much luck just putting your decals directly on bare photo etched brass.So, if that is what you are doing,I'd at least give the photo-etch a light sanding, paint it(give it a gloss...

Interesting...liquid glass cast at room temperature.

I actually don't know if you can polish clear urethane resin or printed resin or not?I'd say,Dremel has some soft polishing bits I'd gather.....not sure if a regular plastic polishing compound will work or not?Maybe try experimenting on either scrap or non essential areas on the kit??

I'll be doing some of that myself soon enough.Just drill'em out and finish the hole off with a square broaching tool from Micro Mark.That's mu plan.

Swirls?Do you have puctures?

AK has some killer paints that simulate burned and stressed metal

No idea.Depends what kind of paint it is,but typically paint manufactures suggest that you don't mix their paints with a different manufacturer's paint.

There are some really good metallic paints out there now that simulate burned and heat stressed metal.

Well,you can still find/buy Testors and Model Master enamels. I've found web sites that are still selling select colors,all be it many of the colors are lacking in diversity and for all intensive purposes are limited in most of our applications. Specifically for those of us who are trying to replica...

I think it is AK that has a metal etching prep made "just for" photo etch brass and I suppose other metal parts if it worked on them too?

Well,typically I wouldn't do further work until the coats dry thoroughly.I was watching a tutorial..or..."Adam Savage episode" and he was using Flowquil paints,thinning them with lacquer thinner,and calling them "lacquers" which sort of threw me off because I know they are enamel...

So,in other words it does't matter which thinner is used(enamel or lacquer to reduce Flowquil),one isn't necessarily better than the other.If weathering with oils and mineral spirits&turpentine are used...a "clear coat" to protect the paint "might" help a little in keeping th...

I have been buying NOS Flowquil paints.Some of them may be a newer,re-formulated paint,but it is Flowquil non the less.In any case,I know typically these are "enamel"paints.Always have been.I know I can get an enamel thinner to use with them,and I have also read elsewhere that the Flowquil...

Easy on the eyes for sure,but I don't understand a word she is saying other than watching what she is doing.

Hmm...I'll have to take a look.I am not totally familiar with Vallejo's line of paints.I only know of the ones I see at the hobby shop I go to,and right now their shelves are pretty empty.If memory serves,you really get "the best *POP*" from iridescent and pearlescent paints by painting ov...

Do you mean...like "flip/flop", Chameleon or iridescent colors?I didn't know Vallejo made them?I think the way those work depends on "the base" you spray them on?I am not an authority on using them,hopefully someone else can help answer your question?

I know this is a little off topic, but I have a couple multi-media kits.A combination of vinyl,metal and resin cast parts(and I have kits that are all vinyl).Superglue is mainly what is recommended for the vinyl kits,however...I have been wondering if other adhesives might be used (and/or in combina...

RTV silicone for mold making is just "expensive" there's no way around that.You gotta bite the bullet if you are going to cast parts.Stick with the manufacturer(don't combine others) and do your homework.Know what you are casting in the mold,know if your silicone is tin or platinum based a...

R.C says use *HOT WATER* to soften the resin up and to bend it back in shape.

I have a similar issue coming up.I have a 1/4 scale resin figure and the character is covered in tattoos.However,as expensive as the kit was,no decals come with it.I'm not sure how to go about finding the correct tattoo images,printing and scaling them correctly let alone having them "made".

Pearl-EX pigment powders added to a clear coat medium and they pretty much have every pearl pigment needed to do a "pro job" on the enterprise.Check out the work Simon Mercs does.

You have to "pre-heat" and "cook"Lexan/polycarbonate for a while otherwise it will bubble and blister on the inside.

Excluding "styrene" Allot of these "clear plastics require some "preheating to bake out what warer content there is in them so they don't cloud up/frost over or blister internally destroying their clarity.

Acrylic is "hands down" the best clear plastic,but its a bit if a chore to vacuform it.

Try TAP Plastics and see what plastistruct has.

Okay,thank you for the information.I';m looking into other ways to apply also.I might consider using a resin.Might be wasteful,but might be a better alternative.

No,"atomized metal powder" (steel/iron,bronze,brass,copper) mixed into a medium,like acrylic or an enamel or laquer clear coat.But after talking to a couple others,sounds like the only way to apply it is with a paint brush in a very heavy medium like an acrylic gel,then dust the surface wi...