Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have both and use the VL exclusively now. It's a great AB, easy to clean and you can use either cup or bottle.

I did a test a while back using Apple Barrel paint thinned with Future. Turned out pretty good. Not quite as nice as Tamiya acrylics, but a lot cheaper.

The Apple Barrel will airbrush nicely with the Future method of thinning. And yes keep the airbush moving. Don't try to get it all in one coat. Several lighter coats will be best. When you're done with each coat, have a clean cardboard box ready and place it over the model. This should minimize the ...

Here's a pic of some alum. scale siding used as shuttle bay doors:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... G_2097.jpg

Check your local model railroading shop. Mine carries several scales of roofing, siding, etc.

In my experience Tamiya acrylics do not brush on very easy. They rend to clump up and dry out quickly. I usually just AB these, or brush only if its a small area and can be done with a dab or one stroke of the brush. You might try brushing it on some scrap styrene or sprue to get the feel of it.

Krylon makes water-based(acrylic?) spray paint now. That might be a safer bet.

I think Micromark has a set-up for a scale lighthouse. That could work.

Like Vader says, grab some Bondo spot putty. That's all I use for most filling needs(MagicSculp for heavy filling/build-up) and its dirt cheap.

That is good to know as Mr Surfacer is scarce lately. I used to get it from Best1 Hobby but they seem to have closed up shop. Thanks for the test results. I'll see if Hobby People has the Tamiya stuff.

I special ordered what I thought was the stuff(LAT 50) but it's not quite it. I picked it up yesterday. Its not exact to the kit material, but might work. It certainly would work in your case where you don't have to have an exact match.

I have to replace the engine intakes on my Howling Wolf Blackbird as they were cast bad(not an easy part to cast). I found a match in Plastruct Lattice/trellis material. You might check it out on their site.

I use a scalpel with a rounded blade, and just work it into the putty very gradually and lightly. It works on resin seam lines, etc in right areas. I don't know if there's a comparable X-acto blade as this is fairly small. But the curved nature of it helps to prevent slipping and cutting something o...

Fiskars makes a leaf hole punch, but it may be too big. Again, what scale?

It could be unequal amounts. The twin tubes from Home Despot have a habit of squirting out one of them pre-maturely. You have to wait till they come out equal before starting a pile you can mix. Same thing can happen to Bondo in the can if mixed improperly, it never hardens.

Micromark has one too:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.as ... t&ID=60360

Ah feel yer pain! I usually dripped to much on a seam and it ran over a large area, leaving a nice goopy line to repair.

Just be careful not to drip it on the surface. I've ruined several project pieces with a drippy needle bottle. I still use it because I get it free from IPS(through one of my sub-contractors).

Yes the Bondo spot putty is just as good and cheaper. That's all I use anymore(besides Magic Sculp).

I've found Delta brand to be the thickest, Apple Barrel the thinnnest. The consistency of milk is a good rule for thinning any paint for airbrushing. The important thing here is to test on a scrap piece of plastic or old model. Its cheap enough to do this, not like Tamiya, Gunze, etc.

I did a test a few months ago using Apple Barrel brand and Future as a thinner. It actually ran quite well throught the airbrush. I didn't try brushing with the mix but you could toy with it.

Find a plumber, or even go into a plumbing supply house. Don't be afraid to ask, they usually have cut-offs left over. 2" ABS drainline should be close enough. If you strike out I can get you some as a last resort. Plumbers usually carry all that stuff home and stick it in the back yard.

I've always just thinned it with good old rubbing alcohol, to the consistency of milk. Had no problems. I usually don't airbrush when its that cool outside.

I find that seeing imperfections is easier in indirect sunlight as opposed to artificial light. For some reason they all pop out that way. I know, not always easy in winter.

You could treat them like vehicle striping.........Heat them with a hair dryer and peel off what you can. Clean up left over/residue with some WD-40 and a rag(clean WD off with household cleaner).

I won't be doing many areas this way, just like you said, stain type areas. I've had good results with washes over Dullcoat when done correctly. Most of my weathering after Dullcoat will be pastel chalks, but sometimes a grimey black wash works better(especially on SW models). My experience with Fut...

All the other areas are fine. No clouding and colors are good. Any other washes I was going to do on top of the Dullcoat. As long as the Dullcoat goes on with no noticeable difference.

Thanks for the help.

I have a smal problem and need some advice. I used black ink in some panel lines, then sprayed Future over the model(Viper MK VII). The ink ran in some places. I rubbed some Windex on a paper towel over the runs and the areas now lack there sheen. My question is should I recoat or can I go right to ...

I love my Paasche VL as well as my H and have never had any problems with them. Easy to use and easy to clean.

I highly recommend Mr. Surfacer primer. I use the rattle can version and love it. It goes on smooth with little or no sanding needed and goes easy on details. If sanding is needed get some 500 grit or higher wet/dry sandpaper(sand wet) and use light pressure. I find 3M brand to be the best. Hope tha...