Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I came to the same conclusion on some of this type of tape. It's great for painting your house, not so great for models. I'm sticking with Tamiya.

Here's one I've found useful: http://www.howtoairbrush.com/

They don't stock pink/blue foam sheets here in SoCal, and you might find the same up your way Bill. I've even asked my supplier about it and get a blank stare.

I would go the route of making your own base, either with 3/4" plywood and shoot some moulding to the edge(yes, miters) or find some large edge-glued wood shelves(check home Despot) and router an edge on. The home centers also have nice wooden circles that have finished edges. Then you can go p...

I'm in the middle of masking a Saber class for aztec, paneling, etc. I tried the Frog tape for the first time and was less than impressed. I swiftly went back to my Tamiya 10mm roll. Can't beat it. Used the Frog tape for fill-in maksing after the Tamiya.

I don't spend any more time cleaning my Paasche than my friend who has an Iwata. Never had any problems with my VL, and picked it up at a hobby shop fairly reasonably. I've taken his Iwata apart to help him clean it and actually found it a bit trickier than the VL. Here's a good site to read up on t...

I run my Paasche at 20-25psi so that should be fine. It also depends on what paint your spraying. I only use Tamiya acrylics.

CA debonder is just acetone, which will eat styrene. Unfortunately you may have to use it or try light sanding, or both. Spilling CA is never fun!

I've found Tamiya paints aren't great for drybrushing. Try some Polyscale or other brand.

Have you tried looking for some ABS pipe from a home center or plumbing supply?

The Gunze stuff is great if you can find it. I lost my source a while ago. Someone on the boards here said Tamiya primer was the same basic stuff so I tried it. It does seem the behave about the same. And I can still find it.

I never have that problem with Magicsculpt. You could try roughing up the surface with some heavy grit sandpaper.

If you're talking about Liquid Nails construction adhesive, it does hold very well but may eat the styrene. That's why they make the white version for gluing foam insulation board or even vinyl base. It doesn't hold as well though.

I've found something similar at Home Despot called Frog Tape. Guess what color it is.

I use Gunze acrylics once in a while, as I don't have many. The local hobby store I bought them from moved. I switched to Tamiya acrylics as they're easier to find. Thin them as Terry said.

I only run acrylics through my airbrush. Everything else is too much of a pain for me.

I've used Weld-On #3 with pretty good results. Not sure where you can get it. I get mine from a plastic supplier.

Thanks, I didn't think about the needle size.

Hope somebody can help with this(OT a little). A friend of mine is trying to paint on fabric and has been using Createx paint thinned with water. His Iwatas are clogging, I think because the paint is a bit thick. Reminds me of craft paint. Is there any better airbrush paint for fabric that is thinner?

I used a pencil on my small Pegasus in the lines and then drew on my own lines for more effect(as well as chalks added):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... G_2235.jpg

It's probably more akin to the plumber's two-part that comes in a tube. It hardens very fast(and heats up too).

Try acetone. That's what's in CA "debonder."

Delta paint is thicker than other craft acrylics. Apple Barrel will work better. I've had success thinning it down with Future and spraying thru my Paasche.

Thanks for the compliments guys.

I guess I got lucky with the mix cause it sprayed great the first time. Gunze paints do spray a little different, I just can't find them anymore. It's hard enough to find Tamiya paints. The local Hobby People is slowly running out.

I used Metallic Gray mixed with black to spray these Viper engines:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... ineson.jpg

Frank is right, you have to mix well just before spraying. Otherwise just thin down till it does spray.

I just use these on top of my Zap-a-gap:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/u ... G_2322.jpg

I can put a small dot where I need it by controlling how much I squeeze the bottle. 5 for less than a buck too.

You just have to make sure that glue is not left in the tip after each use. After applying, set bottle right side up and squeeze some air through it, clearing the nozzle. You can even wipe it with a paper towel every once in a while. Using this method keeps me from having to buy nozzles all the time...

I use the blue towels from trauma/surgery kits(friend of mine works at a hospital). Highly absorbant and lint free.

The scalpels are usually thinner and will break easier. Try the scribing method, just keep scrbing deeper and deeper until it will break. Unless you have access to a band saw..........

As Kylwell mentioned, the precut strips would be the easiest way to go.

Sometimes messing it up a few times is the best learning process. Just keep at it and take notes as you go, so you don't make the same mistakes. Show us your work when you're finished.

I would put a coat of Future on to seal the decals, then spray a matte sealer of some sort. I've recently discovered that Polly Scale flat is dead flat run through an airbrush. If no AB then one of the above mentioned.