Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Is the main port out on this thing 1/2 inch? (not the one with the pressure release point on it - the other "fat" pipe) Trying to get a ball-valve for this is proving a mad saga in the uk... not the pot's fault though, just lack of decent sources of supplies in the UK. $21USD for a 1/2 inc...

hehe - excellent video, not heard it called "bombs away" before

Do not soak - most assurely do not soak.... but i dont think you can give ti too many mistings tbh (within reason). First few sets I did i used about 2 -3 and it wanst enough so i stick religiously to 6 now. Probably OTT but its safer than finding out you didnt cover a bit and watching it wash off e...

Maybe consider side-glow fibre optic instead? - EL wire is pretty thick.

Yeah Micron are very good.

It's not cured properly - duff batch I expect, ti should go rock hard and sand very smoothly without clogging.

Humbrol - haven't used it much but has worked ok so far.

http://www.barrule.com/Workshop/product ... ptics.html

0.5mm fibre @ 12p pm - Maplins charge £1.08 a meter, go figure.

Well all the components on both pots have come apart with relative ease and no damage - so no complaints there. Also the kit of bits you suggested sparky have proven invalauble as i've now got a quick-connect system rigged up without any issue between my compressor and the one pot (plus we cna now a...

Pots arrived today in good order - should get time to get them set up next week but first to make sure i'm doing the right things. Is the following correct? 1: remove the paint pick up tube (hopefully by breaking the glue-seal and unscrewing it, or if not by sawing it off) 2: Fit the pressure valve,...

thanks sparky - appreciate the assist~

Is it worth buying anything else from HF for the pot when buying these?

As im shipping themto the UK figure it best to get any fittings at the same time - any suggestions (with links if poss~)?

If you pressurize the mould during curing don't you have issues with pockets of bubbles that don't float out, expanding after decompression and distorting or destroying the mould? I guess a smaller bubble would exhibit greater buoyance tending to float free on its own (same reason a diver needs lea...

Ok Isee where the confusion is: you don't pressure cast the mold, you vacuum degas it. If the mold has any bubbles init then you cannot pressure cast resin in it later. The action of compression and decompression will give the mold the bends it will die. I had a mold that experienced this but I tos...

You could always pressure cast the original mould to erradicate bubbles also - doesn't have to be vacuum'd. Just need to be able to keep the mould under pressure whilst its setting. The stop-motion aniamtion guys who worked on "Wallace & Grommit" use a fast set (2 hour) RTV silicone an...

These resin or mold casting pressure pots are the same high quality pressure pot used for painting, except the liner and fluid tube has been removed. These tanks have a flat bottom, where as other brands have a round bottom.

http://www.finishsystems.com/resincasti ... epots.html

You've no idea how long i've spent looking for a decent price pressure pot over here in the UK. If you get one and it works, post a report. I'm generally OK with normal atmo pressure casting provided I mix both rubber and resin carefully but any advantage is welcome. Getting two but they're on back...

&^%$£

You've no idea how long i've spent looking for a decent price pressure pot over here in the UK.

Top banana folks - you're all stars!

(Oh, they ship internationally btw - hence the joyous outburst!)

is there any other source for pre-cut masking tape other than the Micron stuff from HLJ?

Similar widths being ideal 0.4mm through to 2.5mm or 5mm.

ignore me - im being an idiot - easier to make a template in thin styrene and spray the pattern on - doh!

Does anyone know of anybody who makes urban-camoufalge pattenr decals? If not any good sources for urban-camouflage patterns from which to make ones own? Looking for something of aorund 1:58 scale or similar although obviously there's no need for exactness. edit - actually maybe it isn't *urban* i'm...

chemical attack would seem the best bet... (not a WMD though)

..or if that's not strong enough go for a dense RohaCell - that stuff is surely strong enough and very lightweight

Well i coat EL sheet with clear epoxy and that still works fine....

Maul - yeah in this case I want to flood a compartment with light deliberately (its the exhaust pod at the end of a B5 Starfury wing) rather than trying to feed each exhaust with individual light.

Cheers all, sounds like black followed by white is the way to go.

What's the best way to trap LED light inside a cavity within a model - both so as to allow the trapped light to be piped out via short Fibre to the surface and thus reflect as much of it as possible back into the cavity and also B) to prevent light leaking through the plastic of a model? I'm thinkin...

Have a look at the Balsafoam products or similar. I tend to use them often to make a master for casting or for scenery like dungeon walls. Can be easily cut, carved and sanded to whatever shape you need, and comes in different hardnesses. Here is a link for you: http://www.balsafoam.com/ Balsafoam ...

aye - a block of polyurethane resin.

hmm - or wood, just a case of getting the right wood. Cherry would probably do it.

try google sketchup - its even easier and totally free.