Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

What he said...that or epoxy, it kinda depends on what two pieces your gluing together.

Dan

Bob, Super clean is now known as 'Purple Power'...same stuff, different name. I've heard the Armory stuff is hit-or-miss. Sometimes it goes on great, other times not so much. I don't know what the variables are though--shaking time, heating it, etc. Anyway, I've had pretty good luck with Simple gree...

I think it could somewhat depend on the airbrush. I tried spraying lacquers through my Aztek, and failed miserably--I think it may have eaten some of the stuff inside. Enamels it had no trouble with. Same with Acrylics. My Iwata will spray just about anything I can fit into the cup: Lacquers, enamel...

Depends on the effect you are trying to create. For a completely solid fill, it doesn't really matter. But if you want some mottling in there, each way will produce different results...and where the spray actually falls (mostly on the tape, overspray only on tape, etc). Hate to say it, but grab a sh...

K&S has a small one.

Dan

The Dymo tape isn't necessarily to ensure a straight line, it's more so that the details don't get nicked by your scriber (hey, accidents happen).

And the tape is there so that you can see when it's worn away, and put more tape down--thereby going through the tape, and not the greeblie.

Dan

Put tape over the details, and use Dymo tape as a scribing ruler.

Dan

Congrats! I always got frustrated at the people that'd only give general advice with airbrushing. Then I realized that it's slightly different for everyone, and the best way to do it truly is to practice!

You are on your way!

Dan

Well, it depends on the size of the fishnet :). It's actually probably better...it's been a little while since I've looked, but the holes that hose has are smaller than the wedding tole I've got--I have to double the stuff up a bit to get effective filtering. And also--play with the pressure--you'll...

User the gravity feed...at really low pressure, siphon can't pick up the paint. Also, mixing is important--and filtering some. Shake the paint until your arm falls off, mix up some Aves, reattach your arm, and then shake it some more. I bought one of the little Robart shakers--I put the paint in tha...

You can also use some of the photoetch saws that the store carries...

Dan

Oh one more thing--try drawing straight lines freehand from different directions. I learned in a drawing book that most people assume they can't draw a straight line, when in fact if they try from different directions, they can. I can draw a pretty straight line from upper left to lower right, but m...

What he said.

Some interesting effects can be had with transparents over metallics, too...I've done that for taillights, etc. I tried to make a glowing nacelle effect with blue over silver. Didn't come out perfect, but the seed is there for me to do more experiementation.


Dan

Respectfully disagree, Robb. I've been practicing for 3 months doing nothing but airbrushing lines. I've got an Iwata Eclipse that I can do a hairline with now on demand, and from any stopping and starting position. The big secrets for really thin lines: Thin paint. Thinner than milk...like ink...or...

If it were me, yeah...I also use Microscale's non-toxic Micro Weld for a lot of things. It's about the only non-toxic cement I've found that actually works. It melts the styrene just as well as some of the other nasty stuff--it does take a little longer to setup though.

Dan

I recall once reading that there was a certain chemical you could buy in gallon containers, and it would last forever as a styrene cement. You are thinking of MEK. Nasty stuff, but buyable by the gallon. Methelyne chloride is still pretty nasty, but MEK's on the level of "look at it funny and ...

Unless it's a really large window, it shouldn't generate enough heat--there just isn't enough chemical mixture to do it.

Dan

Baba, is your only complaint about Aves that it's sticky?

Dan

Which also helps when you sit on your hands, Robb.

I just tried some nitrile gloves after using latex gloves for a while...they both worked equally well from a usability standpoint. If you get the ones with a textured fingertip, it can also make interesting designs--nonskid surfaces, etc.

Dan

With Aves, keep your hands wet. Or wear gloves, dip 'em in water, alcohol, or safety solvent every so often.

Also, let the aves sit for half an hour or so, it'll get less sticky.

Dan

That's exactly what you need. Notice on both of those parts, you'll see an arrow for air flow direction--pay attention to it. Also, I've got my air source going into the filter first, then the regulator, then the airbrush. I read somewhere that's the way to do it. Make sure you use teflon tape... Dan

Scotch tape--make it the clear stuff, some of the matt or masking tapes can leave a slight texture.

Dan

Or oil paint in turpentine....slap it on, wipe it off...

Dan

Answered in the other post, but basically, use the 500 for filling pinholes first, then put a coat of Mr. Resin Surfacer...a hotter version of 1000 for resin.

Dan

Ive found that there is several Mr. Surfacer Primers' ie. 500 and 1200 spray on an then the brush on. which works the best on a resin kit??? None of them. Mr. Resin Surfacer primer. It's basically a hotter version of 1000, to etch the resin slightly to get some tooth. That said, of the Mr. Surfacer...

Either one will work...but I have seen the particles settle after a few minutes of spraying...just watch out for that.

Dan

And especially if you are getting buzzed...the thinners in acrylics still aren't good for you in vapor form...

Dan

Wait...is it mixing 1:1 by volume, or weight?

Dan

I've got a half-mask twin cartridge respirator, and I try and wear it as much as possible. I've also got a spraybooth, but really, these are the only lungs I plan on having. It's cheap insurance, and if you get a good mask, you'll forget you are wearing it after a few minutes.

Dan

You can pick up a general purpose starter air set at lowes or home depot, that comes with a couple of quick disconnects (then you don't need Ter's ball valves), some teflon tape, a ball inflator, etc for around $20... 'Course, if all you need is the quick disconnects and the tape (make sure you get ...