Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Even windex in a pinch.

I really like PolyScale paints. My acrylic of choice.

Chacal wrote:2.5 x 2.5 mm? Around a 30mm cylinder? The strip is waaaay too thick to be turned around a 30mm core (at least without heat).

Ooh... I didn't catch that. You're right. Definitely do it in layers.

I would personally do this: cut the strip a little over-length. glue down one end of the strip. wrap the strip around the cylinder, glueing as you go. When you get back around, overlap the ends, cut with exacto, then adjust with a file until the match is as close as you can get. Then glue down the e...

I honstly don't know what kind of pilot I need

Its a kit-bashed 1/72 bf-109, converted into an Underwater fighter.

That's how I'd do it, but I don't have a pilot for the cockpit... Also, this was supposed to be a "quick-n-dirty" build

I'm working on a project and I need some suggestions on the canopy. Its a 1/72 scale kitbash, and I need to make a custom canopy. As I see it, I have two choices: I can make the canopy solid... basically fill it in with Aves or similar, and count on pulling off a really nice Gold or Gloss Black pain...

Depends on what you are looking to do.

I like Blender, and the interface has improved dramatically over the last year or so... (and its free)

Longer pot life is nice, but it's not crucial. You can do what you need with the kit you got.

If its the same $20 starter set they were selling a coupl eof years ago, then its plenty to do what you want.

Robb, use the butane torch with a hot air concentrator.

The torch flame will be way too hot for the styrene, and will just scortch it, but the hot-air concentrator tip works miracles... It's how I altered the styrene edges for my M-wing.

My usual technique for dullcoat is to mix Polyscale Flat Clear into Future. I really like the results, and by varying the mix, I can get everything from semi-gloss to satin to flat to dead flat. I've found that as long as the mix is at least 30% Future (a flat satin), I can still remove it with wind...

Hmm... now that you mention it, I realize I've never used it over gloss. You may be on to something.

Well, I've had it happen exactly one time, and that was when I screwed up the mixture in my brush.

I haven't had any problems with it since...

Thanks, Erin, that's an obvious one I missed...

Is it possible that there was a moisture contamination in your application? Do you have a moisture trap in our airbrush? What did you thin the Future with? Differential drying would certainly cause what you describe. How many coats did you apply? Did you give them each a chance to cure before applyi...

I believ ethis stuff is intended as an intermediate material. You are meant to reduce the part, then immediately cast the reduction in a harder, more stable material.

Fill the tire with plaster or something so that it is solid and won't flex when it takes the weight of the model. It doesn't matter how much you prime it, the paint will flake off if you flex the rubber.

if you MUST use superglue to nail down some fibers (there are some times where it really is the best way), then you can lay the fibers down, cover them with a little pile of microballoons and drip the CA into the microballoons.

DasPhule wrote: My Paasche worked for a while until I dropped it. Ever since then it hasn't sprayed without spitting problems, when I could get it to spray at all. I'm not a big fan of their airbrushes.

Lol... so it's not Paasche brushes you have a problem with, it's dropped Paasche brushes

One thing I've noticed with my VL: I can get very fine lines with the VL... not quite as fine as the Sotar, but pretty close... but to do so, the VL is VERY picky about having a perfectly thinned mixture, so it's often not worth it. These days, I use my VL for base-coat coverage and metalics, and my...

LOL.... wow... No. dont get that brush. The aforementioned Badger is nice. Harbor freight used to carry the Paasche VL for $50, and that's where I got mine, but I think they sold out. I've never used the 360 myself, but I hear lots of good things about it. I have a Paasche VL and a Sotar 20/20, and ...

I Fifth the Tamyia Tape Absolutely the best.

And available here.

Acetone is the primary solvent for Cyanoacrylate (superglue). It's not great for you, but small exposure shouldn't hurt you.

kylwell wrote: I'd stick with something like the 395 if you want a cord.

Thanks. That looks like a decent unit.

kylwell wrote: I will say, you can't beat a Foredom for strength and longevity.

Oh, I know... of course, you pay $350+ for a basic Foredom unit too. I could almost get a miniature machine lathe for that.

It's about a 1/16"

I'm looking at new units.

The XPR is getting absolutely terrible reviews on Amazon. Is it that bad?

Unfortunately, all the new attachements seem to go with that model.

So, I just ripped the drive-cable on my Dremel 332-s flex-shaft work-horse. This is the heavy-duty model Dremel (probably isn't made anymore)... a dedicated flex-shaft variable-speed unit with pivot/swivel base for the motor unit. I got this about 10 years ago for school... I apparently over-torqued...

I use a butane torch with a hot-air concentrator for heat shrink. works beautifully. about 2 seconds in the hot-air flow and it's set

Another trick is to moisten the salt in a small bowl or glass, and use a brush to "paint" it on. Gives you a little more control than "sprinkling"

US Plastics is having a clearance on their Styrene Balls:

Styrene Balls

macfrank wrote: Do you have a contact or web page or distributor? Compleat Sculptor only carries the 100 (the expander),

Try calling them. They had both at their table at WF.