Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

1. You certainly can power them with 3.7v :) 2. You'll want to include resistors on all LEDs anyway, in order to make sure they all get only the amount of current they need. 3. I don't, but the techniques you'd use are almost universal ones, so don't fret about whether you're doing it "right&qu...

Heheh, yeah, I know... I'm just putting it off because let's face it, laziness is the mother of invention. :P I do intend to learn how to program them, though. I have the intention, when I can afford the sheer amount of materials it would cost to build it, to build an AT-AT that is remote controlled...

What strobe pattern is it you want to reproduce MF - single flash?? So if its just a single flash strobe you want to produce, then a single 555 could do the job. R1 = 15k, R2 = 220k, C1 = 10uF and a signal diode (say a 1N4001) across R2 would give you 0.1 sec high (on), 1.5 sec low (off) cycle As a...

You two should have been in class the day the teacher introduced us to the monostable and astable multivibrator... Every single person in class was making... inappropriate jokes.

The astable side is wired up like this: http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/555-astable-multivibrator.jpg Then the output is connected to the trigger on the monostable side, which is wired like this: http://www.circuitstoday.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/555-monostable-multivibr...

So I'm trying to get a strobe light working using a 556 chip. I have the A side wired up as an astable multivibrator, and it functions just fine if I'm interpreting my meter right (~10v on, 0v off on the output pin, at the correct frequency). The B side of the chip is wired up as a monostable multiv...

I'd love to participate in this. I have a few ideas that I've been wanting to model anyway that would use a plate as a basis for a big round... thingie.

I don't know of a source for just buying this, but for building your own, here's a build somewhat similar to what you are describing - the method used is *really* labor intensive, but yields good looking results. Go down this page till you get to "hot air intake hose for the carburetor" a...

I'm not talking about just wire wrapped with solder, btw. I'd like to find a source for tubing or rod that has defined ribs on them, sort of like what vacuum cleaner or sump pump hose, with little ribs on them that are separated by a groove. I could use the control cables from Anakin's podracer, bu...

I'm not talking about just wire wrapped with solder, btw. I'd like to find a source for tubing or rod that has defined ribs on them, sort of like what vacuum cleaner or sump pump hose, with little ribs on them that are separated by a groove. I could use the control cables from Anakin's podracer, but...

It's exactly the same thing that happens to water when it hits your windshield. It beaded up and shrunk to the center of the panel. I didn't touch the "glass" part for that reason, actually. And before I dipped it I rubbed it thoroughly with a rag to make sure to get rid of any surface con...

I'm not sure why this would happen. I've given the canopy of my Revell T-70 X-wing a good polish, and after that I dipped it in Future. A few seconds later, the Future started to bead up on the surface, and I'm not sure why. Any ideas?

Thanks.

I was wondering if there was a way to use a 555 timer as a strobe. Normally you can't get less than a 50% duty cycle with them, but I'm thinking that if I use a transistor as a switch to somehow discharge a capacitor into the LED, I can make a strobe instead of a simple blinking LED. Is there a read...

Hi MF, Thanks for the input. Just so I am clear, your recommendation is to apply some solder to the LED and resistor leads before cutting them shorter, join them together mechanically, then re-heat the joint area to solder them together. And the same would apply to solder the resistor and LED Lead ...

Just a quick tip: solder the wire before snipping, then after snipping re-heat the joint. Soldering before you snip allows the leads themselves to act as heat sinks, and re-heating the joint will re-flow the solder so as to get rid of any micro fractures that might have been caused by the snipping.

I've had this happen so many times that I question what I'm doing wrong. When I finish a paint job, I usually break my Iwata Neo airbrush down to all of its individual components and then take some fresh airbrush cleaner and go over them with q-tips, trying to get every speck of paint off the parts....

If it were me, I'd go around flea markets and try to find an old portable phone and charging base. You can then just rip the electronics out of it and then put the jack in an inconspicuous bit of hull detail or else hide it behind a panel. You'll want to put the batteries in a place where you can ev...

SpaceRanger1 wrote:http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-H ... B003TFFCBA

That's perfect! Thank you!

I seem to recall someone posting on here a link to where I can buy stainless steel tubing meant for hypodermic needles. Google seems to think that I want actual hypodermic needles, so that isn't working. Does anyone know where to get this stuff?

There's a 24" paper model that has bulkheads and skins that I'm working on. I could email it to you if you'd like, as it has not only a complete skeleton, but a reasonably well-fitting skin that has layers with thickness callouts in millimeters.

That's why God gave you two.

Oh, and figure out how to wire 6 diodes together in a way they get ONLY the power they need, and I can turn them all on with one switch. Ugh!! ](*,) This isn't too big of a deal, honestly. Just wire them all in series and put current limiting resistors on them, and it should work just fine. Then pu...

When I built it, I was able to drop in some LEDs with no need for resistors whatsoever. The board only supplies as much energy as your light sources need, so you're also able to add in more LEDs if you want to light up the control panels on the left and right side of the pilot and R2-D2.

Thanks for the advice. It looks like the 4017 counter is the perfect solution.

I've been wondering if this would work. I have a 555 timer and a 4060 cascade chip, and I'd like to set it up to do a dual blink circuit for the USS Defiant. I want to make the forward strobe blink, then the aft strobes. Can I set these two chips in such a way as to make this work? Is there a diagra...

Yeah, you're right... I built a prototype and it can only close to about a 1/4" hole. So I've decided to use the petal type. I have a design worked up for a nine-petal one that should work. I'll build another prototype and see how well it performs.

5.00 each- http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l3371.html I'd rather use the plans for this thing: http://www.instructables.com/id/Paper-Iris-Glasses/?ALLSTEPS The parts are made from paper, and thus are compatible with metal sheet as well. I just need to take them into Illustrator and fill in th...

It may be slow progress, but judging by what you've got so far as well as your past efforts, it should be well worth the wait!

The aircraft carrier and battleship hulls can be found in near-1:1400 scale for miniatures gaming, as I recall.