Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

If it's anything like the grey-scale stuff (I'm pretty sure it is) let it cure for a few days, depending on how much is used. You can test it by smelling the putty, if it still smells of solvents, it's not dry.

Hope this helps.

Well I can't speak from experience, but one CCFL tube would light the entire saucer section, all you would need to do is fill the windows with a clear resin. They make great windows. Just seems like less of a headache to use one source of light. I would ask around here, because a lot of people have ...

Have you thought about using CCFLs instead for the windows? Might be a little easier than using LEDs.

Thanks, didn't even realise anyone replied to this thread. I'm looking at doing the electronics myself, a bit of a fun challenge, but thanks for the tip.

I've never used this stuff before, when masking off a window 'hole' from the outside, won't the tack from the tape stick to the liquid when the liquid is applied from the inside?

Sorry for the moronic question...

Hi all, been modelling a while with paints but have not touched lighting so far. I looked at my AMT Enterprise D kit and just said "Well this baby has to be lit up!" So here I am. Sorry if some of this has come up already, I just thought it easier to get it all done in one post. I've seen ...

Whats Tamiya arbrush primer like (the one in the wee glass bottle) Better than a can? Just looking for a less-stinky way to prime my models, Thanks. It's a little less fine than the canned stuff, about the equivalent of Mr. Surfacer 1100 maybe and just about as smelly. Thanks, would you recommend i...

Whats Tamiya arbrush primer like (the one in the wee glass bottle)

Better than a can?


Just looking for a less-stinky way to prime my models,
Thanks.

I used Tamiya grey for ages to I had the same complaints, then I used Squadron green, its great the only reason I wont use it again is because its too smelly. Bad for you.

So I'm just going back to Tamiya.

Nice, bookmarked

If the effect is mostly from a difference in sheen, then equalizing that sheen will kill it. If it's a subtle shade difference, then you'll probably be OK. If you can, it's WELL worth your time to paint a test piece. Some old unfinished kit - or even a good kit unpainted. You can strip acrylic real...

Thanks for the tip. I have this aztec effect I really like, would a gloss and dull coat kill it? http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff206/Scotty701/Polar%20Lights%20TOS%20Refit/?action=view&current=P1020260.jpg http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff206/Scotty701/Polar%20Lights%20TOS%20Refit/?acti...

Cheers Wug, that clears it up for me now.

Thanks.

I've seen clear and gloss coats in spray cans etc (and used them)
Heres the stupid question, can you run gloss and dull coats through an airbrush? I don't think I've seen them in my hobby store. But if so any tips on running them through an airbrush?

Hi, Im about to finish a model (yes finish!) and I thought I'd ask for some advice on Gloss & Dull coats. I have used them both before, but this time around I would like some do's & dont's. I dont know much about them thats all.

Thanks,
Scott.

Also, something that came up last painting session. My paint was not as fine as it could of been. I was having trouble toning a down a colour

Over the past couple of airbrush sessions, there as been a tiny paint clot (bloob) appearing on the top of the needle peice. It's called tip dry. Typically shows up with acrylics, some more than others (I've had it with Vallejo and Testors, but not with Gunze Sangyo and Tamiya). It's caused by acry...

Thanks

An ink wash? Like an ink-in-Future glaze? Washes typically you remove some and keep the rest in recesses. Glazes you brush on and allow to well in recesses. Airbrushing usually gives you thin, uniform coats - what you'd get with an ink would likely be a tinting effect. Ok, thanks. Im not too sure w...

What are peoples thoughts on the EW220 & EW440 models, I own both and I'd like to hear the pros and cons.

Actually, it doesn't. 99% of what I spray is acrylic and I've never had the issue. My old POS Paasche used to do it with thinned Testors enamels but only when I'd mixed the wrong needle with the wrong tip. Righto, Could it be that I hav'nt mixed the thinner in with the paint thoroughly enough? Im u...

Cheers, that clears it up

Hi all, Over the past couple of airbrush sessions, there as been a tiny paint clot (bloob) appearing on the top of the needle peice. So when you go and spray something the bloob getts bigger and bigger, and eventually you get little paint droplets on the model. It's not a big problem, I mean if it h...

Not a bad idea a'tall. Excellent!

Hmm, ok thanks

Not suitable for plastic styrene kits then ?

Can anyone tell me anything about polycarbonate paints??

Ive got some Squadron green, havnt used it yet because the caution labels put me off quite alot

I spray Easy-Off oven cleaner to remove old enamel and acrylic paints. Dump the painted parts in a large (more than a gallon) zip-lock plastic bag or if the model is too large a large plastic bin with a cover. This stuff is very caustic and kind of stings if you touch or accidently take in a whiff ...

whats the best product to use to remove enamel paint off a styrene model and keep the putty intact??