Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Thanks. Future's a miracle coating. Floquil's great stuff. Great realistic bare metal finishes, too, unless you want that shiny English tea set look. I've got a major investment in Floquil, so I'm gonna use it. Thanks for the confirmation.

I'm almost ready to start painting. I want to use Floquil Railroad Colors. None of that aqueous stuff for me. Over my base coat, I plan to put some kind of gloss coat. Then I plan to lay down panel decals. Then I want to spray a thinned down Floquil final coat that will somewhat be a weathered coat ...

Thanks! Didn't get a fast reply last night, so I went ahead and toothpicked on some of it. Indeed, it took 3 applications before it stopped collapsing into the panel line. Worked great though on pinholes and other imperfections lthat the resin primer rattlecan didn't catch. I'm guessing I don't need...

Brother Brown has it right, Linda. Baptized into the Abbey of the Brotherhod of the first Eccumenical Church of the Modeling Congregation of Aves. Nah, I'm not that hardcore, and I just got a tip to try the black CA that SM sells instead of Aves. But back to my question, is there any way to RESTORE ...

Intriguing profile makes it worth a try, even though I hate superglue. I usually stick my fingers together and the parts never mate.

Many apologies. I can't find the thread where I asked this. I have a jar of Mr. Hobby Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer. Burgundy label with gray/white text. I've looked several times. Nowhere does it way what grade/thickness it is. I went ahead and tried using it tonight to fill some hallway sized panel li...

I discovered this stuff a few years ago at WFest. Why does anyone use anything else? Is there some use that Acryl Blue/Red or Squadron Green Putty is better for? Also a brief reading suggests I need to get my 2 cans out of the same ziploc. And apparently I have contaminated the brown can. It's harde...

I'll look again. Eyes aren't what they used to be. Thanks!

Not sure if this stuff is '500' and my Japanese is terrible. I guess I'll experiment. The posted discussion have some great info, but this makes me think someone should create an Excel spreadsheet of glues, fillers, and paints with columns for: uses, thins with..., thins best with..., recommended ra...

Anybody know if Mr. Resin Primer Surfacer (jar) can fill fairly obnoxious, trench-like panel lines in resin? I can't keep up with all the Mr. this-and-that that's out there, and I'm not sure if this stuff is thick enough. I know it'll do small pinholes and scratches just great. But I've already got ...

There, see, I knew someone would make it hard if I left this post up.
I've been afraid to try pinning cause I never knew how anyone drilled holes in both parts that would line up.

Thanks. Good to know. I'd better send my hazmat suit to the dry cleaners. That's half the battle. My hands are so shaky that I like a little time to make sure I'm happy with the alignment. Of course, by then...

I assume the proper scenario for using this is when you can hold 2 parts together because they will bond instantly? I have such a scenario with a cleanly snapped resin wing. Will I have any time to adjust it if needed? The break is so clean that I don't want to just use the bottle dropper and flood ...

Anyone know a source for a sheet of screen with a pattern of small squares? Oh, say, the size of 1/200 space shuttle tiles? Doesn't have to be perfect, just achieve a general effect. Hobby shop? RC shop, hardware store? Craft store? Plumbing supply? Moderator, move to Real Spacecraft if you think it...

Yep, Miraculous recovery by a dried brush. Thinned the surfacer. Ate up a cheap plastic cup. And it makes a great dessert topping. Love that laquer thinner.

Some questions:
1. Does it sand like resin? Like plastic? Like paint?
2. Best grit to start with for just smoothing some lumps/high spots?
3. Best to wet sand?
4. Should I continue to sand down finer or just apply a thinned coat of surfacer and let it smooth itself?
Thanks for the help.

Thanks. Sorry for the double post. I was trying to save a brush.

OK, I'm chemically-challenged, but I'm betting 100 % mineral spirits is the wrong stuff, eh? On the other hand, Model Master airbrush thinner doesn't work either. Thoughts?

Thanks. Now I need to check the thinner I used cause that doesn't begin to make a dent in it. Just checked. the surfacer is hardening in the cup and the thinner is floating on top. Off to check the jug. Back shortly.

Does anyone know a thinner for Mr Resin Primer Surfacer? and paint thinner and isopropyl alcohol, Tamiya thinner, and Model Master acrylic thinner and Floquil airbrush thinner don't work. Bonus question: If it goes on too thick, can it be sanded down, and with what so that it sands down around resin...

The question says it all, and the brush is already wet. I know that paint thinner won't do it. What works? Ok, it's an emergency. Thanks!

I'll look when I get home. Fine as sewing thread. Possibly surgical. Bought it at the IPMS Nationals a few years ago. Foot-long lengths in a tube. Can't beat the realism.

Thanks gents. Piano wire would be too large for a 1/1400 Raptor. This is really fine wire, and it works great as long as you take care to keep it straight as you install it. Really intended for 1/48 or 1/72 biplanes. If I ever get another chance, I'll probably use fine monofilament that seems to hol...

I've used a hot match head to tighten stretched sprue rigging. Does anyone know if that or anything else will straighten fine metal wire rigging? I was careless and now have some bends in some rigging that won't totally come out. Will anything straighten it again? Thanks.

Like how fine? I'm aiming for a pretty dull steel, much like the rest of the ship as currently painted. I guess I could sand the stainless for that matter...or could I? Anyway, I know what I'm looking for in the store now.

Looks ideal. Thanks. BTW, I did a search before posting and didn't come up with anything. Off to the hardware store to see if I can find this in anything like a small container.

For a couple of reasons, I'm using fine steel wire to rig a 1/2500 Klingon Raptor. Can anyone suggest a method to tone down the shine on the steel to something very oxidized/weathered looking? Thanks.