Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

You need to let an oil wash cure for a day at least. This is one of the better articles on the subject... http://www.leagueofpainters.com/?p=929 As to using a lacquer varnish - I see no reason not to, as long as the layers beneath the wash can take lacquer. Frankly, though, I use artists' acrylics f...

The addition of fine particles is exactly how paint manufacturers make paint matte (flat) in the first place - it makes the surface rougher and therefore scatters light. It's that rough surface that gives the need to gloss-coat matte surfaces before applying decals. But I agree - matting powder woul...

Flatting (or matting) powders are usually a silicate. What that means is that they are pretty inert and should work with any paint medium bet it enamel, acrylic or lacquer. As for quantities all you can really do is experiment. I think you'll be surprised just how little of the powder you need to ch...

I have used enamel paints on vinyl - but only tiny spots of metallic on top of well-primed vinyl (e.g. uniform buttons). That was back in the day when acrylic metallics weren't very good. On vinyl, I use an automotive primer designed for car plastic trims. I've heard that you can use enamels over th...

I've taken to using a small in-line moisture trap that screws directly to the airbrush. I've actually got three so I can swap them out during longer sessions when the need arises. I've heard of people doing this ... would you, by chance, have a link or brand name for such a thing? Thanks. Qapla' SS...

Does anyone know where you can buy these in UK? I had to import mine from Japan eModels usually has them (a trifle on the pricey side), but they're currently showing as out of stock - but you can set up a notification... https://www.emodels.co.uk/tamiya-model-tools-electric-handy-drill-craft-tools-...

I've taken to using a small in-line moisture trap that screws directly to the airbrush. I've actually got three so I can swap them out during longer sessions when the need arises.

I have some Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear Green from the early '80s (in the old 20ml jars). They're now a bit syrupy but still thin well I use these colours so rarely that while they are still viable, I am loathe to replace them.

I have to say this about panel lines. A scale of 1/72 is the same as the “real” thing seen from 40 feet away. Panel lines are certainly visible at that distance, so yeah he would want them to be visible. An experiment you can do is to take a photograph of a prototype vehicle with visible panel line...

Ditto 5 minute epoxy. I also suggest Gem-Tac.

As others have said, applying decals straight onto untreated PE brass probably won't end well. So you should be applying them to a glossy painted surface. An alternative to using metal primers (which can get unpleasant and can be somewhat tricky), polyurethane primers will stick to PE fairly reliabl...

I don't know of any pre-built units, but the project in the following link looks pretty small...
https://www.instructables.com/Flip-flop-LED-circuit/

And then there's dunsel ... And object or person for which there is no use or purpose. Star Trek TOS ( The Ultimate Computer ) - Spock tells McCoy of the term which midshipmen use. I'm not sure if the word was in existence before Star Trek. Also from TOS trek, the pipe and conduits on sets were refe...

I've used primers as base-coats several times. If the colour is right then it doesn't matter a hill of beans as to what the original intended use of the paint may be. As a matter of fact, I've found that Halford's white primer is pretty close to the "Ford Diamond White" used on may Gerry A...

Say what, there's an airbrush fitting to hold and draw paint from a marker :?: :?: :?: :shock: Not a new idea. Letraset used to (and may still) do the Letrajet which was a single-action airbrush attachment for their ProMarker pen range. Copic do something similar, but works with almost any liquid m...

There is also electroluminescent wire, perhaps easier to handle (and cheaper) than sheet in your application. It's readily available here in the UK...

https://www.glow.co.uk/el-wire-glow-wire-products.html

Ah, gotcha.

That would be a good question, A smooth object has no scale so it’s important in model work to find ways of creating scale. I don't know that my brain deduces that from it, You may not be aware of if but your brain does. In real life just think how much more difficult it is to accurately judge dist...

Come to think of it, I remember before Star Wars they were often called "widgets".

I've seen & heard both greebles and greeblies used, but by far the most common use I've come across is greebles . As far as I can recollect, the use of greeblies has been almost entirely in this forum! I believe that the word greeble isn't yet in any of the accepted "academic" dictiona...

TenaControls... https://tenacontrols.com/product/engine-sequencer-for-c-57d-space-cruiser/ Galactic Modeler (But I don't know if this is for the smaller 1/144 kit)... https://shop.galacticmodeler.com/Lighting-System-Kit-Fobidden-Planet-Polar-Lights-Model-C-57D-FBLGT.htm There's a guy in Germany who ...

Cool stuff - now all I've got to do is find a UK supplier.

Thanks for the info. I stand corrected.

Dykem is a Prussian Blue stain - often known as "engineer's blue" and is used in metalwork to make marking-up easier. It is non-permanent on metal and polishes off very easily. The same cannot be said for skin or clothing and without due care it is a great way of ending up looking like a S...

There are liquids & pastes available to blue metal (including brass). Look for "Gun Blue" and follow the instructions.

There are other methods (including heat) - watch and clock makers use them a lot. You could try googling forums for advice.

Ferric chloride solution can turn green when contaminated with phenols. A lot of anti-bacterial cleaners and washes contain phenols so it looks like you've got a bit of contamination from cleaning. The brownish film is likely to be contamination from fats or fatty acids (also sometimes used in clean...

I suggest you try experimenting - you must have some parts in your spares box.

Whatever you do decide to do, remember to let coats cure thoroughly before you move onto the next stage. At least a couple of days I would suggest.

Hrm... :-k I wonder having this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2CWfSLyjx8pa played in the background may help? Perhaps the sound waves may provide a bit of agitation of the solution that may help to "stir things up" as well as loose and perhaps dislodge the bits that get stuck... Perha...

I haven't tried this on a model yet, but a recent accident led to a table top being completely stripped of all trace of varnish - the table is over 40 years old so had tons of polish and patina on top of the commercial varnish. Now it is bare wood. The spilt liquid happened to be menthol crystals di...

How about 100% isopropyl alcohol? Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is good too - just be aware of the fumes. Without ventilation and and/or a good quality mask the fumes while spraying will make you drunk quite quickly and will likely give you one hell of a headache. Not so much a problem thinning with IPA ...