Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Due to my recent modelling, er, mishap, I've been taking a break and playing around with a 4060 chip and a variety of capacitors. Just for yucks, I soldered 2 capacitors marked "10" together and hooked it up. I was rewarded with a seemingly random blinking pattern. Both on and off states j...

I was thinking of buying some 28-30 gauge beading wire. I like the size, you can find it nylon coated, and it's flexible and easy to wrap. But with my luck, I'm worried that it will cause the model to burst into flames. So anyone with any experience with this stuff?

I've been having the problem of the melted plastic spinning itself around the drill bit as I drill, thus causing the hole to be larger than I wanted it to be. I've been using my dremel... is that the problem? Do I need to go to a hand tool?

Just curious. Does primer stick better? Is it thicker?

Thanks for the recommendations everyone!

I've been using Tamiya acrylic (bottle), and while I think it's okay for large areas, I feel that the metal flecks look too big, and are particularly noticeable on small parts. I'd be willing to give up some lustre for finer grain. Suggestions?

I love the Tamiya rattle can primer. Love it. A little pricey, but worth it IMO. But I was looking at the Tamiya bottle primer, which costs a lot less... and was wondering if that would be a way of saving money without sacrificing quality. Anyone?

I was thinking of using a couple of these for the bussard fans on my next E build, but I've never used them before. Can you regulate the current so that it will rotate slower than 50 RPMs?

For anyone who's interested I found a source in FLA that sells 12v 500mA and 1000mA DC regulated wall warts for cheap ($5 for 500mA, $7 for 1000mA). Just got them today, and they work! PM, and I'll kick you the info.

I've used Elmer's glue for masking, but not for windows. It does yellow and it doesn't really stick well--it peels up easily, so sanding is out. BTW, I've been using Devcon 5 minute epoxy, which dries very close to water-clear. It's a bit thick, so it can be tricky filling small windows. But it does...

All right, here's a place that sells 12v, slow RPM motors on the cheap: http://robokitsworld.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=50&zenid=f6ecovepq55doi7025ml77goa4 But they're in India. I have no idea if they're legit or not. Any way to find out if they are? According to WHOIS,...

Sweet! Thanks, I'll run out and buy that tomorrow!

I've been using a combination of 22 gauge solid-core, which is nice because I know that it will carry enough power, but can be a little difficult to work with due to it being stiff. 20 gauge stranded, and either 28 or 30 gauge (can't remember which) solid-core stuff with the spray-on coating, which ...

Something like 75. I was thinking of the stuff with the white label.

I was thinking of using some light-tack spray mount glue and my laser printer to print up my own custom masks. My question is: will the light tack glue leave a residue on acrylic paint? Or will it be no worse than using masking tape?

I read the instructions on the main site, but I'm schematic illiterate. If someone could use paint or photoshop to draw in where I'm supposed to put the capacitor and resistors, I'd be really, really thankful. Here's a link to the pic: http://picasaweb.google.com/lohenbrau/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCMat...

That makes my head hurt... thanks for the pic!

You wouldn't have a pic for just the Nav lights, would you?

Ahhhhh! I'll have to order one of those.

Ordered. Probably be here in three weeks. It's coming from Hong Kong.

Cool, thanks. Breadboards are on the way as are 10 555 chips. I do like how they are half the size of the 4060, and as space is now at a premium in my primary hull...

I'm not positive. The chip didn't have the little cut-out, so I had to guess from the orientation of the printing. That's what I get for buying Radio Shack...

I followed the instructions on this page: http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/2072/proj2.htm The LED I hooked up lit, but did not blink. I ran 5v to the chip, and within a second had smoke and popping sounds coming from it. Clearly I did something wrong. Well, lots of stuff. Here's what I did: I ...

WEll, I've had good luck ordering LEDs from China off evil bay [links removed], All my fiber optics, I buy from here: [links removed].

If anyone is interested, PM me and I'll send you the info.

Thanks!

I now have 6' of tubing... hehe

All I need is 2"

Anyone know where I can buy 7/8" (outer diameter) tubing for a reasonable price? The largest size the hobby shop has is 5/8" in brass. Ideally, I'd want styrene with a wall diameter of .2mm.

Ideas?

Stu Pidasso wrote:Fire?

I loike the way you think! Quick and easy! I'll give that a shot this afternoon...

I've got a ton of styrene stuck in all the ridges of my 6" file, and for the life of me, can't figure how to get it out. Along one edge, there's an inch long, 1/3" high strip of epoxy/green putty as well.

I've tried the 5 minute DevCon dries completely clear, though the 30 minute cures with a slight yellow tint.

That helps a ton! Thanks!

Well, I sawed the warp nacelles off the pylons on my AMT Enterprise, and I want to fill the holes in the nacelles and re-cut them, but my question is what is the best method? Cut styrene sheet to fit, glue and then fill the cracks normally? Or can I use some tape to cover the hole and then fill with...

Using it for windows. Also may use it to cast small parts.